Reassembly and modifications
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Reassembly and modifications
I'm finally ready to begin reassembly and will almost certainly need some occasional assistance and or suggestions from the willing experienced builders. In fact this is my first engine rebuild of any kind. Although I have turned wrenches before, I'm not what you would call a gear head.
First question:
I do not remember seeing nor have I found a Front Eccentric Thermostat. Another source told me they thought the 20B does not have one. Can any of you 20B guys confirm this?
First question:
I do not remember seeing nor have I found a Front Eccentric Thermostat. Another source told me they thought the 20B does not have one. Can any of you 20B guys confirm this?
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Thanks man.
It's my understanding that you would normally replace the rotors in the same position that they came from. I did mark mine F,C and R for that purpose.
Are there ever any exceptions to this when reusing the rotors that came with the engine? My rotor weights with new rotor bearings are below. Given my weights, any reason not to just put them back where they came from?
Front 4368 grams
Center 4373 grams
Rear 4355 grams
It's my understanding that you would normally replace the rotors in the same position that they came from. I did mark mine F,C and R for that purpose.
Are there ever any exceptions to this when reusing the rotors that came with the engine? My rotor weights with new rotor bearings are below. Given my weights, any reason not to just put them back where they came from?
Front 4368 grams
Center 4373 grams
Rear 4355 grams
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My engine supposedly had 60K miles on it when I got it.
I'm trying to decide whether to have the side plates nitrated and or just lapped.
Originally I wasn't going to do either but now I'm leaning toward at least the lapping.
1)Any words of wisdom?
2)I was told that after the nitrating the plates would have a dull gray finish instead of the polished/mirror finish they have now. Is that normal, good, bad...?
TIA
I'm trying to decide whether to have the side plates nitrated and or just lapped.
Originally I wasn't going to do either but now I'm leaning toward at least the lapping.
1)Any words of wisdom?
2)I was told that after the nitrating the plates would have a dull gray finish instead of the polished/mirror finish they have now. Is that normal, good, bad...?
TIA
Last edited by Lucrum; 12-22-09 at 08:49 AM.
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Re-Nitride Plates
Side plates should be re-nitrided if more than .003" of material is removed or they have been resurfaced before.
This will restore the working surface of the plate back to its factory hardness. This increases plate wear resistance and is a must if you want a lasting reliable engine
Rockwell Hardness Tested
New Mazda plate from the factory no miles on it. RC 38-39
Used plate after lapping /Grinding 2-3 thow deep. RC 21-23
Used plate after lapping/grinding with re-nitride. RC 40
Side plates should be re-nitrided if more than .003" of material is removed or they have been resurfaced before.
This will restore the working surface of the plate back to its factory hardness. This increases plate wear resistance and is a must if you want a lasting reliable engine
Rockwell Hardness Tested
New Mazda plate from the factory no miles on it. RC 38-39
Used plate after lapping /Grinding 2-3 thow deep. RC 21-23
Used plate after lapping/grinding with re-nitride. RC 40
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Currently plan on using stock fuel rails with overhauled injectors.
Are most of you re builders using the stock fuel pressure regulator and pulsation dampeners?
If not, what sort of adapters if any are needed to make an after market parts work on the stock rails?
Are most of you re builders using the stock fuel pressure regulator and pulsation dampeners?
If not, what sort of adapters if any are needed to make an after market parts work on the stock rails?
Last edited by Lucrum; 01-05-10 at 04:21 PM.
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It's come to my attention that the PD and FPR can't be removed from the stock rails. So any changes in that regard will include changing the fuel rails as well.
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Turrentine's DVD shows him installing a rubber O-ring in the groove at the base of the front stationary gear. The exploded engine view I have does not show such an O-ring nor can I find one that's going to fit within my 20B gasket and O-ring set which supposedly has all I need.
Comments?
Comments?
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Turrentine's DVD shows him installing a rubber O-ring in the groove at the base of the front stationary gear. The exploded engine view I have does not show such an O-ring nor can I find one that's going to fit within my 20B gasket and O-ring set which supposedly has all I need.
Comments?
Comments?
I do have one rotor installed.
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I was very careful to install the rotors in their proper sequence in the housing from whence it came and keeping the front of the rotor facing the front of the engine.
I was reasonably certain of having the front and center rotors orientated with respect to each other in phase. But now I'm having second thoughts, as I'm ready to put the third rotor housing on. Once the rotor is slipped onto the e-shaft and rotated so all corners of the rotor are within the confines of the rotor housing is there more than one way for it to fit?
I was reasonably certain of having the front and center rotors orientated with respect to each other in phase. But now I'm having second thoughts, as I'm ready to put the third rotor housing on. Once the rotor is slipped onto the e-shaft and rotated so all corners of the rotor are within the confines of the rotor housing is there more than one way for it to fit?
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TY very much, I was thinking I had heard or read that somewhere. But I wasn't certain, so I started having visions of an engine that wouldn't start or destroyed components and another rebuild.
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#24
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Re-Nitride Plates
Side plates should be re-nitrided if more than .003" of material is removed or they have been resurfaced before.
This will restore the working surface of the plate back to its factory hardness. This increases plate wear resistance and is a must if you want a lasting reliable engine
Rockwell Hardness Tested
New Mazda plate from the factory no miles on it. RC 38-39
Used plate after lapping /Grinding 2-3 thow deep. RC 21-23
Used plate after lapping/grinding with re-nitride. RC 40
Side plates should be re-nitrided if more than .003" of material is removed or they have been resurfaced before.
This will restore the working surface of the plate back to its factory hardness. This increases plate wear resistance and is a must if you want a lasting reliable engine
Rockwell Hardness Tested
New Mazda plate from the factory no miles on it. RC 38-39
Used plate after lapping /Grinding 2-3 thow deep. RC 21-23
Used plate after lapping/grinding with re-nitride. RC 40