Pulley layout with powersteering removed

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jun 19, 2015 | 06:52 AM
  #1  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
Pulley layout with powersteering removed

Guy's I am in the middle of removing my powersteering on my 20B FD3 to convert to manual. One thing I thought while doing this is I planned to remove all the bits associated with the powersteering including the bracket that mounts the pump to the engine. I noted the adjuster bracket that holds the alternator is fixed/supported by the powersteering pump bracket. Is the alternator bracket sturdy enough to hold up with the powersteering bracket there or do I need to retain this or add an additional support of some sort? Would like to see what you have done if you have got the same mods on your car?
I am struggling to find any images to see what other have done.

Thanks in advance

Lee
Reply
Old Jun 19, 2015 | 05:18 PM
  #2  
hsmidy's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: chch
Given that my engine is down at the moment, I have just done a google search and by the looks of it the alt adjuster is mounted to the waterpump. the power steering and A/C bracket being removed shouldn't effect it at all.
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2015 | 03:24 AM
  #3  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
The bracket is fixed to the waterpump housing at the bottom with one bolt. Half way up it then bolts to the p/s, a/c bracket for support.
Are you running the same setup? Any pictures of yours built up?
Thanks
Lee
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2015 | 03:45 AM
  #4  
hsmidy's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: chch
From what I can see it looks like it would be fine, if you are still concerned about it an easy solution would be to extend the bracket at the bottom where it mounts to the water pump so that it also attaches using the bolt just up and to the left on the water pump, its a little bit of cutting and welding but very easy.

I'm still tossing the idea of a supercharger round so will be in a similar situation to you, however I am also going to be running an electric water pump.

No pics worth putting up as yet.
Reply
Old Jun 20, 2015 | 03:09 PM
  #5  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
I was toying with doing exactly what you say but basically I don't want to give myself extra work if I am worrying about nothing! There must be some of you guy's out there with manual rack conversions who know what you did? Please can you post up to confirm either way.

Cheers
Lee
Reply
Old Jun 21, 2015 | 03:00 PM
  #6  
t-von's Avatar
Rotor Head Extreme
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,719
Likes: 26
From: Midland Texas
The alternator will need to be supported on the drivers side. You may be able to get away with just using the lower support adjusting bracket that goes into the far right hole of the water pump. Me, I also have manuel steering but kept my bracket because I like my A/C. I just fabed up a bracket to hold my ignition coils and mounted it to the old power steering location.
Reply
Old Jun 23, 2015 | 02:19 AM
  #7  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
I have that support bracket that bolts on the waterpump housing. But it also picks up on the p/s bracket to keep it more rigid. I think without that it might flex enough to let the belt go loose. I will have to look at it once I rip everything out. If necessary keep the bracket and cut away most of it?!
Cheers
Lee
Reply
Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:39 PM
  #8  
t-von's Avatar
Rotor Head Extreme
Tenured Member 20 Years
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,719
Likes: 26
From: Midland Texas
^ You could never put enough tension on that adjusting bracket to flex it. You would destroy your front bearing and break the belt well before anything like that happens. The load on that bracket will be a vertical load with not much weight on it. Just make sure the slider nut is good and tight.
Reply
Old Jun 24, 2015 | 03:02 AM
  #9  
silverfdturbo6port's Avatar
500+hp club
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (26)
 
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,211
Likes: 4
From: .
Use a idler pully from pineapple racing.
It requires less belt tension and in return your pump pully wont slip and you will put less stress on the front bearing.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS MOD
Reply
Old Jun 24, 2015 | 05:15 AM
  #10  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
I guess if the fixing are all tight in cannot go anywhere. I was thinking where it is not straight and goes through an odd arc in theory it could possibly rotate slightly and take tension off the belt. Will go for it without? Is there an easy way to check belt tension? I normally go with checking to see if you can twist it through 90deg on the longest free section of belt. Sound about right.
Guess what I bought last week.. A BT idle pulley kit from pineapple racing! Amongst some other bits of bling. Brilliant! Been wanting to try and make one for ages but not had the extra time. Shame I spent money on a complete set of alloy pullies a while back too!
Cheers
Lee
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2015 | 02:27 AM
  #11  
hsmidy's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: chch
should have about 10-20mm deflection over a 300mm free section
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2015 | 03:15 AM
  #12  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
Thanks for the info. With what kind of force applied?
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2015 | 08:41 PM
  #13  
hsmidy's Avatar
Full Member
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 195
Likes: 0
From: chch
light to moderate....its a feel thing. easier to show than it is to explain, most workshop manuals will give you a specific amount of force and the allowable amount of deflection.
Reply
Old Jun 25, 2015 | 09:34 PM
  #14  
Leeroy_25's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
 
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,101
Likes: 13
From: Portsmouth UK
Thanks for the info. I think I get an idea. I will check but I reckon it won't be far off.
Reply
Old Jul 4, 2015 | 02:07 PM
  #15  
Monsterbox's Avatar
Mazzei Formula
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,021
Likes: 145
From: Birmingham, Al
Originally Posted by silverfdturbo6port
Use a idler pully from pineapple racing.
It requires less belt tension and in return your pump pully wont slip and you will put less stress on the front bearing.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND THIS MOD
or EWP
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
toplessFC3Sman
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
6
Mar 20, 2018 01:54 PM
Enzo1944
New Member RX-7 Technical
2
Sep 6, 2015 08:57 AM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:04 AM.