problem with brand new 20b crate motor
^ The only thing wrong with that theory is that he said he cranked it over by hand several times before.
"well it did spin just fine till the other day. Ive spun it before many times and it was fine, so I would think something got in the motor but there was nothing in the intake port, exhaust port or the manifolds. How difficult is it to remove the bur on the rotor? is the rotor going or be reusable"
If the plugs were wrong from the beginning, then it would have got stuck on the first crank. Unless he installed the plugs afterward or just recently.........
"well it did spin just fine till the other day. Ive spun it before many times and it was fine, so I would think something got in the motor but there was nothing in the intake port, exhaust port or the manifolds. How difficult is it to remove the bur on the rotor? is the rotor going or be reusable"
If the plugs were wrong from the beginning, then it would have got stuck on the first crank. Unless he installed the plugs afterward or just recently.........
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From: automotive purgatory
the plugs i put in where the same one i used in 13brew. which i thought should be fine since I used 13brew rotor housings and 13brew rotors. the plugs I used where NGK's part # BUR9EQ and they have been in the motor since i got it a couple of years ago.
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From: automotive purgatory
Now I'am encountering another problem. I cant seem to find any shipping companies that will ship to canada where my builder is. I want it insured for what paid for it, and either they cant ship it with any insurance(which I'm not going to risk that much money) or they some other BS reason. Does anyone know how I to send this thing to alberta?!
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From: automotive purgatory
yes I spoke with yellow freight they were extremely rude and nearly worthless. Honestly I think I'm just going to go ahead and drive the motor to canada myself as no one can seem to mail the motor.
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From: automotive purgatory
Im considering sending it to Cam at pettit racing. I have never done business with them though, so could someone who knows them well vouch for them or give me a heads up if there business practices are less than satisfactory.
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i saw a memo about that, there are new emissions standards for trucks coming into effect, and with the bad economy nobody can afford to buy a new truck so there is a big trucking shortage.
yep everything is changing over to 2010 emissions standards. Most companies are running a DPF and a SCR. I am currently working on the 2010 emissions project - the costs add up quickly.
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From: Pittsburg, KS.
I have a problem with my 20b. I tried to turn my motor over yesterday while its on the engine stand waiting to go in the car. The motor was built by a very reputable company that I will not disclose as I don't want to damage their reputation. The motor used new rotor housings, new side housings, new e-shaft, new 13brew rotors new bearings everything new and the motor has 0 miles its just sitting on the stand waiting to go in.
I decided to spin the motor the other day as it sat on the stand like i have before and i got to one full rotation and it got stuck. puzzeled i decided to spin it the other way. It was fine till exactly 360 degrees in the opposite direction. I contacted my motor builder and he said its probably just a sticking seal because the motor is new. I tried to spin it past and finally was able to do so but it took a breaker bar to do it. after that it spins but its rough at that one point so I took off the exhaust manifold to take a peak. The point that it always gets stuck at is where the seal starts to make contact with the exhaust port. after getting it past that point this is what I saw. do i need to have the motor redone? it looks like the apex seal is pinched to me. What do you guys think?
I decided to spin the motor the other day as it sat on the stand like i have before and i got to one full rotation and it got stuck. puzzeled i decided to spin it the other way. It was fine till exactly 360 degrees in the opposite direction. I contacted my motor builder and he said its probably just a sticking seal because the motor is new. I tried to spin it past and finally was able to do so but it took a breaker bar to do it. after that it spins but its rough at that one point so I took off the exhaust manifold to take a peak. The point that it always gets stuck at is where the seal starts to make contact with the exhaust port. after getting it past that point this is what I saw. do i need to have the motor redone? it looks like the apex seal is pinched to me. What do you guys think?
sory to hear for ur trouble with the new 20b,
some compresion guages go to much in,
looks like a compression guage was hit
with the rotor
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From: automotive purgatory
so it went back to my builder Adam in calgary today and when i got the quote i put insurance on the motor and they told me when i got the quote they would insure it for 16k and now that they have my motor they said that the motor is only insured up to 1600 and thats if they do an investigation and prove that they caused any damage to it! It sounds like the nuremburg trial with the judge and jurrors are *****. I tried to pay extra to insure it since they didnt put it in the original quote even though they said they did. So im just praying to God nothing happens to my motor! morale of they story NEVER USE CANADIAN FREIGHT WAYS!
FML
FML
the engine builder had to do a compression check after they put the engine togeather,
looks like its right on center and the curve of the dent show's it came from the spark plug hole,
so if the housing is not damaged and u never did a compression test or fitted a longer sprk plug then its definetly the builders mistake when they 1st cranked the engine
looks like its right on center and the curve of the dent show's it came from the spark plug hole,
so if the housing is not damaged and u never did a compression test or fitted a longer sprk plug then its definetly the builders mistake when they 1st cranked the engine
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From: automotive purgatory
I hope its there mistake and they take responsibility for it. It would definetly be better on my wallet. they odd part is that I ahve spun it many times and never had any issues till that one day.
Yeah and see this is the thing, I would say that something found its way into a port then damged the rotor. Assuming the housing is not damaged the rotor itself might be saved, thats up to the engine builder as the picture really doesnt show us the extent of the damage. Good luck with this, will be interesting to see how this unfolds.
The damaged portion of the rotor seems to be right in the center which lines up directly with the spark plug hole. Tony94s4 (post#93) might have the right idea on the compression gauge theory. Since the binding/ damage is only on one apex groove, that might explain why someone could have spun the engine over, noticed the binding, removed the comp tester hose, spun it again with no binding, then shipped it out. This might have left a burr which could have caused it to bind when you spun it over if you spun it over backwards. Just my 2 cents.
I just noticed in the pic that the left and right edge of the "dent" in the rotor is tapered, meaning the object was round. A comp tester adapter hose is round, just like a spark plug. Also, the pic is upside down and if you look at the location of the dent, it was spun backwards when it bound up. If a piston engine comp tester was used, and the adapter hose seal was either compressed from being used often, or perhaps missing, that might allow the tester hose to extend past the spark plug hole and cause this type of damage.
I just noticed in the pic that the left and right edge of the "dent" in the rotor is tapered, meaning the object was round. A comp tester adapter hose is round, just like a spark plug. Also, the pic is upside down and if you look at the location of the dent, it was spun backwards when it bound up. If a piston engine comp tester was used, and the adapter hose seal was either compressed from being used often, or perhaps missing, that might allow the tester hose to extend past the spark plug hole and cause this type of damage.
Looks like it's crystal clear that the damage wasn't caused from the engine "sitting" too long. It's either a compression tester hose adapter or incorrect spark plug IMHO. Were the spark plugs installed when you cranked it? are there any marks on the end of the plugs? At any rate, the rotor should be replaced and the rotating assembly balanced again. Sorry this had to happen bro, especially on your 20b. Best of luck.
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From: automotive purgatory
scrip could you send me a pm with your number you left a couple blocks from me I met you up at your shop one day and you gave me a rotor housing. i want to discuss this problem if you have a moment.
That is not from a build issue, something got in the way. You should never force a engine to turn over, if you can't turn it over by hand with a wrench or flywheel there is a issue.
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