stevexk

Hey guys I'm looking to get into the rotary game as soon as I find the perfect 3rd gen and I'm trying to look at all my options here engine wise. I was curious as too what it would cost a shop to install and rebuild a 20B if I supplied the engine and had the 13B transmission. I'd be looking for around 300+ hp, idk what would achieve that a street port or a bridge port? and maybe a few bolt-ons. Most of the quotes I found online and on here are older prices and are for turbo setups which would require a lot more fab.
Thanks in advance for any info/experiences you guys have with NA 20B's!

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Without trying to sound like a dick, it would be in your best interest to either spend a while searching, or calling around a few vendors and discussing options and getting price quotes. The price can vary drastically depending on how far you want to go. I myself am doing this, so if youd like more info or have questions you can PM me. But to give you a general answer, it can be as cheap as maybe ~4k if you go with a stock 20B , cheap standalone and do all the work yourself.. and possibly as high as 25k+ with tons of bells and whistles.

allrotor93

iTrader: (126)

Motor $4k (this is with no rebuild..expect a rebuild @ $3500)
ecu $1500
fuel $1k
subframe $1200
header. $1400

i say buy my r1.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Don't forget.... clutch & flywheel, Radiator & hoses, oil cooler, etc..

It really just does not make sense financially to spend the money for a 300hp N/A 20B, you can get 300+ hp from the stock 13B-rew with simple bolt-on mods and a tune. Unless you are just looking for something unique, and have a bunch of money burning a hole in your pocket.

In the grand scheme of things just having a lightly modified 300hp RX-7 is by definition having a unique car, in most towns. There are still people that have never seen a 3rd gen and ask "what kind of car is that?"

Evil Aviator

The differences you are talking about are:
- Custom intercooler, BOV, and plumbing
- Custom downpipe
+ Custom header
+ Street porting

I am not seeing a lot of savings here. If you install new high-compression NA rotors, then it will most likely cost MORE than a stock 20B-REW conversion that would offer more power and less noise.

If you want an accurate estimate, then you will need to contact a rotary shop that is capable of this job.

stevexk

Well the main reason I was thinking about getting a NA 20B was I was hoping it would cost around the same to buy an immaculate low millage FD as it would be to buy a roller and throw a 20B in it for around the same price. Just going na for now would be cheaper and I could always add turbos later on. I threw a rough list together and came up with around 13k.

7600 - engine rebuilt w/ street port inc clutch and flywheel
1700 - ems
1900 - mounting kit
230 - radiator
1100 - header

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Keeping the 9:1 comp rotors in the N/A will reduce the HP, however if you ever plan to turbo the car you should not put in the high comp rotors that would allow the slightly higher HP as N/A.

You also need to remember these parts don't install themselves and there are all the small parts you do not have list, double the $13K budget and you will be getting closer.

Evil Aviator

Do you realize that the stock 20B-REW engine already has turbos?

Probably closer to $25K with labor, tuning, and all the "little" parts, maybe a little more. After you call shops for pricing, please post back here if you can get it for less than that.

stevexk

Well I guess my dream of owning a 20B is over for now. I'll just have to start with a 13B and work my way up. Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

I had realized in my 1st post I put 4k, I meant to hit 7.. but anyway, yes on paper the price of a N/A 20B isnt really "worth" the cost. For those of us that are doing something like this, and going all out and spending the money, its really just something we are passionate about. Its not about being cheap, as I will most likely have more money into an N/A 20B setup that will "only" make ~350whp as I would into a turbo setup that would be capable of 600+. If youve never even had a stock FD, believe me when I say that a well tuned bolt on, stock turbo FD making ~320whp is plenty fast and extremely fun. If I were you Id go that route for now, I trust youll be very happy.

NoPistons!

iTrader: (3)

It depends highly on your level of fab skill and resourcefulness.

For instance, if you can't weld, do wiring and slave on your car for hours and days and week and months and years.....dont bother.


You dont sound like "that guy".

I say buy the motor and roll with it.


If you could stand it, you could just remove the turbos and tune the motor via stand alone. It wont make gobs of power or have any kind of low end probably but it will be an n/a 20b.

I'm thinking about it highly. The whole "wheels, body, suspension, tires, doodads and gadgets" portion of my car is comming to a close and i'm wanting to add some cool stuff underhood. It's an option but it might not be the best for me.

Think hard and do research.



Motivation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3NKShLP_sc


And like others have said, your price of your install depends HUGELY on you. It's not a stupid question to ask, just the wrong one.

Good luck and i hope you are able to build a car that makes you happy.

stevexk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xBU4...os=N6lBhAAtpys

This is the video that did it for me, nothing beats that sound.