Well guys, I'm still in the process of saving money. However in the mean time, I've recently gotten bored and started to remove a few items from the 20b. I plan on running my setup full non-sequential. Before I get to carried away and start removing all those vacuum hoses, I was curious if anyone had a diagram or pics of some sort explaining the process. So far I've removed all the intake,turbos, power steering pump, alternator, smog pump,and the uim. I tried to search but could'nt find anything.

 

Use the exact same vacuum diagram as the FD. Here's a copy I reduced down in res to be uploaded.

 

are you running single?
i don't enought money for that,
so i run micro ecu and stock twin
that's i have to fine a way to control the sequential manual.

i think i got a way.... but still not sure... we'll see

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by tri_tam
[B]are you running single?



For now I will be using the twins until they give out. Only then will I go single.

 

Thx for the pic but, I thought to run full non sequential all the vacuum lines to the turbo precontrol and turbo control acuators were removed? Also, my 20b came pretty much with everything on the engine but, I don't have the vacuum & pressure chambers.

 

what ECU do you guys used when you keep it sequential?

 

the vacuum and pressure chambers are on the car, easy to make/get from an fd though

mike

 

So to run NON-SEQUENTIAL (or parrallel), I must reuse the vacuum and pressure chambers from my Fd?

 

no
if you wanna run parrallel all you have to do is keep
the big actuator(turbo control=have too)and preturbo control(if you like) alway open.
the wg go to boost control. i think

 

hehe sorry i had forgot all aboutt he charge control
parrallel? that one need to be alway open too....

 

no only sequential needs the tanks

mike

 

Ok thats what I thought. I've actually removed the turbo control & precontrol actuators. I will wire them open. The wg is still there. Now about all those other vacuum lines?


Doesn't that diagram show how to run the twins sequentialy? I need pics or info to run them full non sequential. There should only be like 3 vacuum lines left right?

Thats my plan, but I want to eliminate all the unneccessary vacuum lines and actuators too.

Thx for the help guys


Trey

 

Running the 20B twin turbo's in non-sequential mode will made the engine very laggy. You will have very little grunt below 3000rpm & wont gain any extra after that.

You need an ECU with only 2 outputs.

Its not that hard to wire a relay off each output that turns the appropriate soleniod on or off.

Output #1... Charge release gate soleniod ON. 2nd turbo blow-off valve soleniod ON. 2nd turbo actuator soleniod OFF.

Output #2...Wastegate actuator soleniod ON/OFF "pulsed"
A "Boost controller" can do this seperately if you wish.

Make the outputs activate around 3200rpm as there should be enough exhaust gas to pump both into action.

The 20B ECU starts the 2nd turbo change over around 3500rpm in standard form.

Its not that hard & will be worth the result.

 

Too my knowledge, no one here in the states is running their 20b sequentialy because they are using an aftermarket ecu. I plan using a microtech. I have not heard any complaints about lag either. Anyways, a non seq 20b should have alot more punch down low as compared to a non seq 13b right?



My fault for not saying this before but,I will be using custom made turbo outlet pipes. Therefore, I will not have any solenoids to worry about. So without any solenoids all the vacuum lines can be removed just like how Dont_Be_A_Ricki did in his diagram showing a full non seq conversion on a 13b. If I knew how, I would post a pic I have of the twins set up this way. The pics came from 3rotorrx7.com before he converted to single. The only thing hooked up to his twins was the waiste gate acuator.

 

no way it's take alot more then just two out put
the 2nd turbo need to be pre spin 1st
then full spin
then start to making boost
then the 2nd intkae pipe open

most 2nd turbo broke because sequential is not working well
and the 2nd turbo flow backward
cause they didn't pre spin/have enought exhaust gas
to trun them when the 2 nd in take pipe open

it's not impossible
but i know it take alot more then just two out put.

 

only one hose for the wg
if you could get everything else stuck open

i think that's a great idea after all

 

Thx. The whole idea is to get both turbos spinning at the same time without any restrictions ( less heat build up). My custom turbo outlet pipes will eliminate any restictions (less restictions more power). This is one of the reasons Pettit makes so much power out of his rebuilt twins on his 20b(1 bar 550hp). I want to eliminate my rats nest as well. My problem is, I don't know which vacuum lines to remove and cap off. One last thing, the guy at 3rotorrx7.com dynoed with 355 rwhp at only 10psi with his stock twins, custom made pipes, full intake & exhaust, and on an unopened engine. If his site wasn't down, you would be able to see his conversion.

 

Unlike the FD turbo's, the JC turbo's don't have a soleniod to control the "pre-spool" actuator. This means as soon as 1st turbo boost reaches the spring pressure it opens the pre-spool gate & starts the 2nd turbo spinning.

You need the 2nd turbo blow off valve soleniod active to allow the pre-spooling turbo to dump its (mini) boost back into the intake (output-1)

The charge release gate soleniod should also be on (output-1). this keeps the butterfly valve closed preventing turbo-1 boost dumping back into turbo-2.

Turbo-2 exhaust flap actuator soleniod if off (output-1)

You simply wire the 3 soleniods to the one relay, switching normally on to the first 2 & normally off to the 3rd.

You switch the output at 3000rpm & it all changes over.

Charge release gate opens to allow 2nd turbo boost through. 2nd turbo blow off valve shuts to stop it dumping. 2nd turbo exhaust flap actuator gets activated switching over to allow stored vacum & boost to get to it.

Wastegate actuator soleniod can be controlled seperately (output-2)

The sequential operation will work. Tthere will be a surge/slump during the change up but that acceptable.

How do I know it will work.

Have wired a Micro-tech ECU to a 20B twin turbo in a race boat & it worked well.

 

"Have wired a Micro-tech ECU to a 20B twin turbo in a race boat & it worked well."

Which Microtech?

 

Great explanation for all you guys who want to run the 20b sequentialy. As for me, I want to run my set-up as reliable as possible. That means no vacuum lines,solenoids, or valves. Thx for your input though.

 

Ok guys, here is what I'm looking for



https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=889938r


Click link for pic. I just need a diagram for a 20b

 

just imagine that one with a 3 rotor shaped intake manifold....

the darker blue is the blow off valve
the light blue is the metering oil injectors
the green is boost control

mike

 

I always figured the process would be similar, just wanted to make sure before I screwed something up. When I complete this, I will post a pic of my progress. Thx for the help guys.



Trey

 

Make sure to take off the tca and wire the door....push the lever all the way toward the front of the car.

I wish I had a 20b someone help me out here!!

 

nice pic
very easy to understand for new ppl like me
hehehhe