N/A compromise port
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N/A compromise port
I am contemplating going 20b with my FD.
First off, money is not really an issue, I plan to do this over the next winter/spring. So I don't need people asking if I know how much it costs to go 20b... I do.
Ok. Now my current set-up is a large streetported 13BRew with a TD06 Single. I never got around to actually making real power on this engine because it decided to let go during tuning.
I LOVE my FD, and want to make it somewhat "reliable." Now the biggest reason people say the rotary is unreliable is because of forced induction. This is why I would like to build an N/A 20b.
Ideally it will be built with 9.7-1 FC rotors and a good port. I want to make some good power out of it, but don't want to go PP. What would you consider a good compromise between the power of a PP and reliability of a small smoothing port. And I don't really want to pay stupid amounts of money for just the porting job, which is why I am thinking of just a LARGE streetport or possibly a half bridge.
What kind of power can expect to make with a 9.7-1 engine with a large streetport or half bridge on the STOCK intake manifold? I know it's not the best for making power, but gmonsen made some decent power with it and I would like to start off there and possibly move to a custom setup in the future.
I have done a bit of searching, but it's hard to find all of the information you need in one place.
First off, money is not really an issue, I plan to do this over the next winter/spring. So I don't need people asking if I know how much it costs to go 20b... I do.
Ok. Now my current set-up is a large streetported 13BRew with a TD06 Single. I never got around to actually making real power on this engine because it decided to let go during tuning.
I LOVE my FD, and want to make it somewhat "reliable." Now the biggest reason people say the rotary is unreliable is because of forced induction. This is why I would like to build an N/A 20b.
Ideally it will be built with 9.7-1 FC rotors and a good port. I want to make some good power out of it, but don't want to go PP. What would you consider a good compromise between the power of a PP and reliability of a small smoothing port. And I don't really want to pay stupid amounts of money for just the porting job, which is why I am thinking of just a LARGE streetport or possibly a half bridge.
What kind of power can expect to make with a 9.7-1 engine with a large streetport or half bridge on the STOCK intake manifold? I know it's not the best for making power, but gmonsen made some decent power with it and I would like to start off there and possibly move to a custom setup in the future.
I have done a bit of searching, but it's hard to find all of the information you need in one place.
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Bumperoo. Back to my old question. The 20b thing is starting to become a reality in the near future. However, instead of keeping the stock intake manifold, I may go ahead and just have a custom ITB set up made by one of the local race shops I've had some work done by before.
Gmonsen? Did you at one point run the 9.7's or just the RX8 rotors? With going to an ITB setup, what kind of power increase can I expect? What would be an ideal ITB size (mm) for a large streetported (almost race port) 20b?
Gmonsen? Did you at one point run the 9.7's or just the RX8 rotors? With going to an ITB setup, what kind of power increase can I expect? What would be an ideal ITB size (mm) for a large streetported (almost race port) 20b?
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Coolio. Sounds right around what I'm shooting for. Has anyone here tried the 50mm tweakit.com ITB's?
Gordon... are you running the defined autowerks subframe? What are you thoughts on the Hinson frame with the Hinson bump steer kit?
Gordon... are you running the defined autowerks subframe? What are you thoughts on the Hinson frame with the Hinson bump steer kit?
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but i was looking for a pre-fab ITB setup for my 20B
i went to tweakit's site.. and there's nothing about it..
do u have a link?
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