either ecu is a very good choice and both offer excellent support here

you cant go past having all these features inbuilt and at the users finger tips when they are needed

you cant get that with a microtech

i am happy you bit the bullet on that , and the outlay now will have dividends later

 

I didn't notice any haters here on the ecu subject. To whom are you referring too?

 

Oops.

 

Just trying to ease all the ecu diag pain that's all. I'm a diy type person so I didn't consider the Microtech as I didn't want to have to send the ecu back for whatever programing or upgrades I should be able to handle at home. That's a major hastle if you ask me. These conversions are difficult as is. Hope all goes well with the Adaptronic.

 

Thanks guys, onto making a new wiring harness. FUN FUN FUN

 

Wrapped the downpipe and reinstalled yesterday. 4" engine bay section > 3" flex pipe to mate with 3" exhaust

 

Now this is quality. Going to start the install early next week.

 

hopes they chucked in the keyring bottle opener

 

Haha that was the best piece

 

Finished seperating the wiring harness, depinning unused wires, wiring injectors and coils. Intercooler piping, downpipe, BOV, dumptube, oil filler, radiator complete.

Tonight finishing up the TPS, IAT, CAS, and AUX output wiring.

Also found that the bump steer correction pieces are touching the inside of my 17" wheels. Nothing a little grinding can't fix.

If Adaptronic sends the basemap this week, then we should fire up this weekend.

Thanks

 

Do you find the installation of the wire loom more difficult on the adaptronic. I mean the diagram portion is it pretty straight forward like the microtech?

 

Very straight forward. Color coded and pin-out. Easier then microtech's black/white paper.

There's so many auxillary inputs/outputs, its pretty sweet. I'm going to run digital fuel pressure signal into the ECU and have it monitor the pressure

 

Sounds sweet I'm switching to adaptronic soon that's good to hear.

 

I got to say that yes Adaptronic has great customer service and always jumped to fix any issues for me thru firmware upgraded, but at the end I had to change to the proven Haltech. Hope you made the right decision as your the only one that will be running the 1280 on a 20B, at the end I felt like a guinea pig and I'm not joking.

 

I went with Motec M84, lots ofgreat features and great support!
Will even run a 4 rotor if I get around to that!

 

What problems did you encounter that turned you to the Haltech? Were you running the 1280? Apparently there are huge differences between the 13b PNP models and the 1280.

There is a 20b N/A Road Race car by Rick Shaw Racing running on a 1280s flawlessly. I wired the car the same as he.

I'm EXTREMELY impressed with the software after taking a look on my pc today. So many choices its insane. You can configure pretty much any output to do anything you want. Any sensor can be recalibrated. The VE table looks awesome, the adaptive and closed loop modes look pretty sweet. Its seems like this should easily smoke the microtech tuning quality. I guess we'll see what happens. Yes, there is risk that no one else is running one so I could be left in the dark. However...

Andy and Elliot are coming down to tune this car, so for being the only 20b turbo with a 1280, this is the most promising scenario to running properly. There's no better opportunity then having the owner and distrutor tune the car in person. Any issues that arrise I'm sure they'll understand.

 

I'm going with the 1280 on my 20B turbo as well. While still in the early stages of the build, I've been impressed with the software and general free-form nature of the ECU.

 

Car is finished.

Spark on all 6 by turning the CAS.
Injectors are clicking.
CAS lined up and dropped in w 20b pulley lined up at mark on right.

1000cc jump box and not starting

Im turning fuel on and off with a switch. Its turning over strong with even chugs, but not firing

Any ideas?

 

Had the same issue with a fd recently running a 440 adaptronic. Timing spot in . Fuel and spark. Would only bump start. I had to spend lots and lots of time on all the parameters and tuning and it still does not start the way i want it to. One reason why im sticking with what i know on my 20b AEM.
Contact elliot at turblown as he is one of the lead adaptronic guys in the us right now. Andy the brain of adaptronic also is a good person to email, he usually responds within 24hrs. He is in Aus so the time difference is not in favor.

 

Nate, I'll get those measurements to you as soon as I have the hood back on. I've contacted adaptronics they should be able to help. Thanks for your suggestions.


So far


-ECU reading 12.5volts
-1100cc cranking amp jump starter on the Battery
-Verified spark on all 6 coils/wires by grounding a plug to engine and spinning CAS
-Verified 3 Primary Injectors Clicking with CAS
-Verified outputs via software Scope
-Verified TPS
-Verified MAP Sensor reading, 101kpa
-Verified fuel pressure 43psi
-Set Crank to -5ATDC with Right-Side mark on 20b pulley, dropped in CAS line up with factory points accordingly
-Verified RPM signal by spinning CAS by hand
-Primed the car for Oil System, Unable to get oil to the turbo feed line, but I assume this is from not generating enough pressure at cranking?????

1. Cranked car for 10 sec intervals 3x, then repeating with fuel pump engaged
2. Pulled plugs, slightly wet
3. Repeated with Throttle On/Off
4. Pulled trailing plugs to hear for compression, even loud chugs

The rotor housings are original. The apex seals are RA Super Seals. Is it possible the compression is just slightly under and needs break in to start correctly? I'm not opposed to a rolling start, its just a PIA.


I'm thinking about trying oil in the spark plug holes. If anyone has any suggestions please share

 

One should never have to bump start a car. Sounds like there is something major wrong. The 420, 440, and Pnp models are very easy to use. If you want some help just email me the ecu file and a datslog of it starting and running.

Zach I emailed you. I would also double check your cas is not stabbed 180 out.

 

Will do, thanks!

 

Took a break from the car today to polish the piping. Going to get back at it tomorrow.

 

Dropped oil in the runners of the LIM. Started the motor with a car jumping off the battery. Finally caught after altnernating on/off fuel. Revved it up to 3k and held it for 5-8mins.

Holy hell the smoke was insane. Oil/assembly lube black stuff all over the garage walls lol.

Found out there's a minor size difference between my exhaust flange and the dp flange allowing a small leak. Slight leak from oil return fitting from turbo and slight leak from oil pan, may need to reseal it. Missed a spot of sealant too thin in back corner. It looks like an easier job to dismount and remount then the 13b. I think its doable without droppping subframe.

I will post a video. It sounds so nasty and way louder then I expected. Hopefully after we chop and weld a better fitting flange and get the leaks fixed up it should be ready to roll.

Don't try starting a new motor in your driveway. Neighbors about killed us. Going to tow it to a parking lot somewhere for the next round.

Thanks for all the help

 

Good job, yeah we started mine in the shop and had to leave it in there on its own at 2000 rpms, simply couldn't breath for smoke. had to dive in every 2-3 mins to check water and oil wasn't leaking and temps was ok.

Get the leaks sorted and do it all over again, this time you should leave it for a good half hour letting the seals break in. There are many threads on breaking in a rotary engine. Good bedtime reading.