Haltec ECU for 20b?
Haltec ECU for 20b?
Where can i get a haltec ACU that works on a 20b in a Turbo 2? A freind of mine is doing a conversion, and he need's a haltec ECU to get it to run.
So if eny one knows where i can get it would be grate.
So if eny one knows where i can get it would be grate.
The only Haltech ECU that is designed to properly run a 20B is the E11, and it's having some significant issues on the rotary platform.
The Microtech LT12, however, costs less than a new E6K, and will properly run a 20B with trailing split.
If you wish, I can get you in touch with a European Microtech dealer.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
The Microtech LT12, however, costs less than a new E6K, and will properly run a 20B with trailing split.

If you wish, I can get you in touch with a European Microtech dealer.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
If you are serious about tuning your 20B you're welcome to me in Stockholm and visit a tuning shop that has Rototest equipment (no rolling road but 2 hydraulic items that bolts to your 5 lug pattern) I am doin some work on a Norwegian 20B this summer which we later shall tune with the Rototest.
Originally posted by No7Yet
The Microtech LT12, however, costs less than a new E6K, and will properly run a 20B with trailing split.
The Microtech LT12, however, costs less than a new E6K, and will properly run a 20B with trailing split.
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Originally posted by No7Yet
Trailing split is adjustable in 2D over RPM.
Trailing split is adjustable in 2D over RPM.
Well, nothing but the MT8 and the E11 (when it runs a rotary) will run a 20B with 3D trailing split (and I'm not sure about the E11). So while it's not "perfect", it's better than the alternatives, and certainly meets my definition of "proper". 
Brandon
BR7 Racing

Brandon
BR7 Racing
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by jantore
Well i see that the haltech ECU is not compatibel with 3rotor. So wich ecu is?
I need somthing that will work, and not demand an iq of 200.
Well i see that the haltech ECU is not compatibel with 3rotor. So wich ecu is?
I need somthing that will work, and not demand an iq of 200.
mike
The LTX12 and coils are with everything you'll need to run a 20B - harness, coils, ECU, fuel pump relay, manual, even the ECU fuse. It has timing split as I've described earlier.
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Brandon
BR7 Racing
Complete kit?
Not sure what you're meaning there bud...
My car actually went into the workshop today for the beginning of what will undoubtedly be a long and drawn out process; FD 13B twin turbo to street port 20B Gt42/45 single turbo 'swap'...
Here in the UK ECU options were (are) limited; basically M800, E11 or LTX for a 20B - no one is running a Tec over here to my knowledge. And rotary tuning generally is still in its infancy.
I was settled on getting an E11 but as Matt was away tuning in the US I didnt get to order one when I wanted; I'm glad now cause the Haltech Yahoo group highlighted problem after problem with the E11 over the last few months (I unsubscribed some time ago though so things will have improved as they actually get some time on the E11 ECU). I'm not sure whether there are people running 20B's successfully with them yet?? A guy over here who I respect completely has half blamed his E11 (now used as an expensive beer mat I imagine) for the demise of his latest 20B motor.
Any way, M800 is a lot of cash to commit to at such an early stage in development so I've gone with the MT LTX12; simple yet effective. People may say its a bit ferrel in resolution and feature set etc but how many of those have actually run a car day to day with them? More to the point - for the money you cant go wrong. Deffo worth a shot IMO. If it doesnt work out then I'll go MoTeC without a doubt (may well do in due course any way if things go as I plan).
Rich
UK
My car actually went into the workshop today for the beginning of what will undoubtedly be a long and drawn out process; FD 13B twin turbo to street port 20B Gt42/45 single turbo 'swap'...
Here in the UK ECU options were (are) limited; basically M800, E11 or LTX for a 20B - no one is running a Tec over here to my knowledge. And rotary tuning generally is still in its infancy.
I was settled on getting an E11 but as Matt was away tuning in the US I didnt get to order one when I wanted; I'm glad now cause the Haltech Yahoo group highlighted problem after problem with the E11 over the last few months (I unsubscribed some time ago though so things will have improved as they actually get some time on the E11 ECU). I'm not sure whether there are people running 20B's successfully with them yet?? A guy over here who I respect completely has half blamed his E11 (now used as an expensive beer mat I imagine) for the demise of his latest 20B motor.
Any way, M800 is a lot of cash to commit to at such an early stage in development so I've gone with the MT LTX12; simple yet effective. People may say its a bit ferrel in resolution and feature set etc but how many of those have actually run a car day to day with them? More to the point - for the money you cant go wrong. Deffo worth a shot IMO. If it doesnt work out then I'll go MoTeC without a doubt (may well do in due course any way if things go as I plan).
Rich
UK
Originally posted by jantore
Well i see that the haltech ECU is not compatibel with 3rotor. So wich ecu is?
I need somthing that will work, and not demand an iq of 200.
Well i see that the haltech ECU is not compatibel with 3rotor. So wich ecu is?
I need somthing that will work, and not demand an iq of 200.
Electromotive TECI, TECII, TECIII
Haltech E6K
Microtech MTX-12
Motec M4 series and M8 series
Wolf3DV3
If you want to fire the 20B leading and trailing plugs with a split, then the products below claim do to so. Make sure you speak to a dealer before buying so that you can discuss your requirements. Except for the Motec M800, all of them are new products, and may still have some glitches.
Haltec E11
Electromotive TEC3
Microtech LTX-12
Motec M800
Wolf3DV4 Plus
There is no 20B ECU "kit" available, and the engine swap requires an IQ of 200 regardless of which ECU you use, so have fun.

Originally posted by No7Yet
Well, nothing but the MT8 and the E11 (when it runs a rotary) will run a 20B with 3D trailing split (and I'm not sure about the E11). So while it's not "perfect", it's better than the alternatives, and certainly meets my definition of "proper".
Well, nothing but the MT8 and the E11 (when it runs a rotary) will run a 20B with 3D trailing split (and I'm not sure about the E11). So while it's not "perfect", it's better than the alternatives, and certainly meets my definition of "proper".
Proper 20B timing IAW racing specs: No split
Split by rpm only will work just fine. However, I just don't want people to think that Mazda has ever run a production 20B this way.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by Evil Aviator
Split by rpm only will work just fine. However, I just don't want people to think that Mazda has ever run a production 20B this way.
Split by rpm only will work just fine. However, I just don't want people to think that Mazda has ever run a production 20B this way.
mike
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by Jeff20B
Does anyone here know of anyone out there who can modify the stock ECU?
Does anyone here know of anyone out there who can modify the stock ECU?
mike
Oh ok. I was just trying to find a cheaper way to skin a cat. Well, looks like I'll be NA first, then I'll upgrade the car to take more power second, then I'll do a large single turbo and a decent ECU for like 400-500HP. At that time I'll be looking for a B or C series engine because this one I'm getting is pre A series. It's like #75x or something.
Or maybe I'll put the ECU/turbo and later series engine in a white FC.
Or maybe I'll put the ECU/turbo and later series engine in a white FC.
Originally posted by Jeff20B
Oh ok. I was just trying to find a cheaper way to skin a cat. Well, looks like I'll be NA first, then I'll upgrade the car to take more power second, then I'll do a large single turbo and a decent ECU for like 400-500HP. At that time I'll be looking for a B or C series engine because this one I'm getting is pre A series. It's like #75x or something.
Or maybe I'll put the ECU/turbo and later series engine in a white FC.
Oh ok. I was just trying to find a cheaper way to skin a cat. Well, looks like I'll be NA first, then I'll upgrade the car to take more power second, then I'll do a large single turbo and a decent ECU for like 400-500HP. At that time I'll be looking for a B or C series engine because this one I'm getting is pre A series. It's like #75x or something.
Or maybe I'll put the ECU/turbo and later series engine in a white FC.
You can run a 13B and a 20B with the LTX12, with timing split as discussed above. When you're ready make the extra-rotor migration, send the ECU back to us for a few days and buy two more coils and you're done.Brandon
BR7 Racing







