You can use a thick billet plate for an oil pan on a 20b with the dry-sump front cover that has an internal pump. I did.

I'm wondering why you used an external belt driven sytem. Much more plumbing and your setup doesn't look any less expensive than the Mazda front cover. It certainly does look great though.

 

It is definatly more expensive, but the fuel pump is also on the same pulley. And alcohol is conductive. So the mechanical pump is much safer.

 

Can you get them on your computer?

 

FD3Rotor... I think I know where the car is, but I'll respect the shop's and your wishes and keep quiet. Are they waiting for a feature magazine release before they go "public" with more info and the magazine has requested that they keep it quiet? Just curious.

Most shops would LOVE the publicity.

What's the current ETA on completion?

 

Any more updates on this badass car?

 

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fu...oid=1351313086

Here is a quick start-up video. The car is currently being re-painted.

Ill post the dyno videos as soon as I get them back.

 

wow, nice!

how many quarts of oil can your oil system hold or gallons

 

Sweet, can't wait for more videos.

 

Let me first say, it looks awesome. (It realy does.) You're saying 670rwhp@10psi? I have a hard time beleiving these numbers. CJ

 

Mee too!! And I was there.

 

hey man wery nice car next time you shiting money **** some out for me too I wont mind
I cant wait to see it finished I actually cant wait until I can finally get my 4 rotor shaft so I can put my motor together.

 

Nice clean build..

 

That engine is insane. Very nice work!

 

holy jesus

 

Your problem with the turbos might not only be limited to oil pressure. A lot of rotaries running the dry sump on a turbo application experience smoking due to the flat oil pan on the motor. Plus there is a lot of oil on the bottom of the motor now and since there's no more sump the turbo's oil drain have a difficult time returning the oil to the motor. I've seen some racers actually do a little sump on the bottom of the plate so as to lower the oil level in the motor closer to stock. Also what a friend of mine did after we tried everything from restrictors to pressure limiters was to use a pump on the return to pull the oil. He fabricated a little catch can for the turbos to drian into and from there the pump return the oil to the block. No smoke after we did that. You could actaully crank the car without the pump running and see the oil over powering the compressor and turbine oil seal and the minute you switched the pump on all the oil and smoke dissapeared.
Anyway your project looks damm beautiful.
Best of luck and hope to see the completed project soon.

 

You hit it dead on!! Thats exactly what we had to do. It solved the oiling problem instantly. Now if our body guy was as compitent as you, we would be set!!

 

Please don't mention body guys to me.
I've come to the conclusion that their judgement became impaired due to many years of exposure from paint fumes.

 

How about running a separate scavenge line from the dry sump pump to the oil drain on the turbos? That would also work, wouldnt it? This assumes you are running an external pump and can more or less select how many stages you want.

 

That was one of our options also especially since we are using the MFR dry sump and there's a provision for the scavenge right next to the turbos. We choosed to go the other way so as not to complicate or interfare with the main oiling system.
With the external pump you do have the option of choosing how many stages but not with the MFR setup. Plus with the external pump it will get even more complicated running oil lines from the turbos. To each their own I guess.

 

+1 update/pics

 

I'm very curious about this.
I have the Mazda dry sump front cover, the new style, on my 20b. There is no provision for an oil return line from the turbo within the front cover. There is also no remnants of any oil metering system in the front cover either. Where both of those should be there is just cast aluminum now. I was worried about the turbo draining properly to begin with in a flat bottom in the absence of an oil pan.
However, I have a choice where to plumb in my return line into the front cover when I drill and tap a hole for it.
Seeing as how the flat surface where the mop used to be is available, and up high, do you think this would help alleviate any smoking from the turbo, assuming eberything else is optimal (i.e. blowby gases vented, adequate sized return line etc.)?

 

Well there goes the nieghberhood! The 20b's in this state are getting crazy! I do believe you will take the cleanest most expensive 20B FD award hands down in this state. What do you plan on doing with that beast?

 

Hmm.. I didn't know this about the dry sump front cover.

So, are you somehow planning to run OMP??

 

nice more pics

 

I never intended to use the mop.
I am a strict believer in pre-mixing.

Mazda Motorsports has a good QTime 3D video of the front cover. There is a link within the link below.
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/wcsc.../newparts.html

Here is a pic of mine.


My original question to Crispeed and frode regards plumbing the oil return line into the location where the mop assembly was. Do you think that would be high enough to avoid any drainage issues with the flat bottom?