PaulC

I will be putting a 20b in some for or fashion in the T2 I'll be recieving once we yank the engine from it. My question is can the T2 drive train take a 20b's power? I want to eventually replace it with some serious parts to take a crazy amout of power (why? just cause i wanna).

I'm trying to avoid any unforseen complications. like scattering gears all over the entrance ramp to I30 or something equally embarassing.

Kurgan

Stock T2 drivetrain, in good condition, SHOULD hold the power of a 20b with the stock turbos... if you are just dropping in a Jspec used engine with the stock twins... you SHOULD be ok... for a while.

I have a freshly ported 20b, but I'm running non-sequentilly converted 20b twins (removed flapper door, removed second wastegate, welded and ported other parts... enlarged wastegate....) witht hte stock rearend and tranny. I'm using a racing beat 17# flywheel, clutchnet 6 puck sprung clutch and an ACT extreme pressure plate.

I'll let you know in a while if it works... hope to have it running this weekend after I get it out of the body shop.

PaulC

sweet , good luck

BTW Ted said you would need 315 out back to resemble some form of traction. any ideas?

peejay

I thought the point of more power was so traction is always a problem!

Heck I'd just get some super gummy stock-size tires and go for it.

crispeed

It's not so much as how much power but more of how much torque!
In my experience as soon as you go above 450 RWTQ the dreaded 3rd gear breaking problem always seem to pop up.
Everytime I've broken a FC or FD tranny it always happened on a roll just as the turbo would would reach full boost or right around where the motor would acheive peak torque which happened to be somewhere in the 5500 to 6000 rpm area. This is also dependent on traction.
My last TII tranny broke rolling on the dyno! That was the seventh and last tranny that broke like that for me!
I've since solved that problem. I can't say the same for some of my unhappy tranny breaking customers.

crispeed
87 Rx-7 TII
9.204@150.47mph
2600lbs
un-tubbed

Greg

Chris what H pattern shifted performance tranny would you recomend for street use, still using a performance clutch. Something to keep stock drivability. Im thinking that a Viper tranny would hold the torque well

PaulC

I was contemplating a T56 6 speed set up. anyone have any ideas on this?

Evil Aviator

I'm also considering the T56. I don't think it would work on a high-rpm engine, but I'm keeping mine close to the stock redline, so it should work on my car. I'm still looking for a reputable manufacturer for a T56 rotary engine adapter made for engines with a bottom mount starter.

13BAce

Can't you just use a TII bellhousing and adapt it to the T56, etc.?

Evil Aviator

That's the idea, but I don't know anybody who manufactures a good adapter. There are some shops that make an adapter for the older bellhousings with the top-mount starter, but this doesn't do me any good with the 20B. The adapter tolerances are entirely too critical to have some monkey (ie me, LOL) make it with a drill press and a Dremel, and I'm just about fed up with paying big bucks for such custom parts.

PaulC

OK heres another thought what about hanging the tranny out back ala C5 style? and have a high speed drive shaft

Ok maybe not but definalty a fun thought.

13BAce

Have you tried contacting a place like Doug Nash?

Evil Aviator

No. Are you saying that a T10 adapter may work with a T56? I didn't really think about that. Hmm, I think it may be worth a phone call to find out.

13BAce

See what they recommend. They could probably come up with something for your application.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if ouy are going to have something made maybe it would work to haver the side mount cosmo starter?
just a thought

mike

Evil Aviator

LOL, but then I would have to source a Cosmo starter. I think that the TII bellhousing and starter is a better idea in my case.

13BAce

Somebody can make you something that will use the TII bellhousing. The hard part is finding that body.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

not add merit to my idea, but the starter is the easiest part its the same as an automatic fd

mike

peejay

The T56's bellhousing is VASTLY different from the T10s... the T10 uses a normal type bellhousing while the T56 uses a short hoop that adapts the tranny to the particular engine it's mated to. It's like a cross between an integral bellhousing (which is strongest/lightest) and a conventional removable bellhousing (which allows greater parts commonality and is cheapest).

PaulC

Seems like soneone needs to call a manufacturer and find out something definate and the T56 will slide on in there.

Anyone know of some one that makes aluminium driveshafts now

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

Yes, so far (about 25,000 miles--no drag racing).

PaulC

Now your just trying to ruin my fun

PaulC

We've talked alot about trannys on this thread but not much about the rear end and axles? Is it something that will stand up or is there kinda a accepted replacement that hasnt been mentioned here and Im unaware of.

Attila the Fun

iTrader: (1)

Mine is T-II from the flywheel on back. So far, there has been no problem with the T-II rearend. Again, no drag racing. Those whose idea of racing is a series of "quickies" should probably invest in a Ford 9" or a Kaaz, since mere 2-rotor cars break the stock rearends.

rx7tt95

I know Rotary Performance had trouble with their rear end in Atco (last event they raced I believe) where they broke it at the line. I don't think it was the KAAZ that broke but something else...C-clips or something similar I believe (I'm not intimate with the inner mechanisms of the IRS and the "pumpkin" innards). Now that they're going 3-Rotor, they will have to work through all of those problems, from the input shaft on back. Might be a nice boon for those (including me) contemplating or even performing a 3-Rotor swap.
Michel