Do all 20B's have codes?
#26
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So if I don't stud it and leave it stock then it's a paper mâché mock up of a 20B
if I add the stud kit. The. It's only weak and good for low boost applications?
Bloody hell
if I add the stud kit. The. It's only weak and good for low boost applications?
Bloody hell
#29
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does the fact that my engine has been remanned give any possibility that the weakness have been remedied?
or is the inherint flaws of the iron castings something I have to live with..
the codes refer to the production series of the engine..
0-999 First batch
A001-A999 2nd
B
C
D
etc
with the C and D being the best "oem" engines to buy
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the codes refer to the production series of the engine..
0-999 First batch
A001-A999 2nd
B
C
D
etc
with the C and D being the best "oem" engines to buy
0-999 First batch
A001-A999 2nd
B
C
D
etc
with the C and D being the best "oem" engines to buy
#31
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Thanks david for all your replies and ur assistance..
the thing that worries me is that I live in a pretty simple country that doesn't have fancy equipment for this kinda stuff
I can't get my irons nitride coated, I can't get my rotating assembly balanced, and I don't know if the stud kit requires special skill set either... I might end up making my perfectly running 20B into an expensive door stop
the thing that worries me is that I live in a pretty simple country that doesn't have fancy equipment for this kinda stuff
I can't get my irons nitride coated, I can't get my rotating assembly balanced, and I don't know if the stud kit requires special skill set either... I might end up making my perfectly running 20B into an expensive door stop
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an ORIGINAL engine would have F,C,R rotor housings, AND the # stamp. but hey new rotor housings are good things
as for the non number engines being weak, yes the later engines had stronger irons. how much this matters depends on the hp goals, if its reasonable 300-450hp, then its probably ok as is.
i had #246, and it was a good engine
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if it has 3 of the same rotor housing, R or whatever, then its been rebuilt. but they reused the irons.
an ORIGINAL engine would have F,C,R rotor housings, AND the # stamp. but hey new rotor housings are good things
as for the non number engines being weak, yes the later engines had stronger irons. how much this matters depends on the hp goals, if its reasonable 300-450hp, then its probably ok as is.
i had #246, and it was a good engine
an ORIGINAL engine would have F,C,R rotor housings, AND the # stamp. but hey new rotor housings are good things
as for the non number engines being weak, yes the later engines had stronger irons. how much this matters depends on the hp goals, if its reasonable 300-450hp, then its probably ok as is.
i had #246, and it was a good engine
Yeah man, thats the only good news so far.. and the fact that it has black paint on the housings means it's a factory Reman I blieve.. (hopefully they used good internals and not bad ones)
ur 300-450hp is that at the crank or the wheels?