So if I don't stud it and leave it stock then it's a paper mâché mock up of a 20B
if I add the stud kit. The. It's only weak and good for low boost applications?

Bloody hell

 

I am sure some experienced engine builders can help you here. It is not a desirable engine in any event as it has known weak spots. However, with a rebuild and s stud kit, it can be used. As for how much boost, I don't know the answer to that.

 

What does each A B C code stand for?
Is there a difference in each engine?

 

The stud kit u refer to, is it higher tensile strength stock sized bolts? or are they the enlarged diameter ones requiring machining?


does the fact that my engine has been remanned give any possibility that the weakness have been remedied?

or is the inherint flaws of the iron castings something I have to live with..




the codes refer to the production series of the engine..

0-999 First batch
A001-A999 2nd
B
C
D

etc

with the C and D being the best "oem" engines to buy

 

They require machining to work:

http://www.rotaryonline.com.au/store...products_id=42

As I understand it, the weakness is in the iron castings so this is something you'll have to live with unfortunately. It's been a while since I researched this as I have "C339" or one of the better engines.

 

Thanks david for all your replies and ur assistance..

the thing that worries me is that I live in a pretty simple country that doesn't have fancy equipment for this kinda stuff

I can't get my irons nitride coated, I can't get my rotating assembly balanced, and I don't know if the stud kit requires special skill set either... I might end up making my perfectly running 20B into an expensive door stop

 

My 20b doesn't have a number.

 

at all? or only on the housings? did u check the irons?

 

if it has 3 of the same rotor housing, R or whatever, then its been rebuilt. but they reused the irons.

an ORIGINAL engine would have F,C,R rotor housings, AND the # stamp. but hey new rotor housings are good things

as for the non number engines being weak, yes the later engines had stronger irons. how much this matters depends on the hp goals, if its reasonable 300-450hp, then its probably ok as is.

i had #246, and it was a good engine

 

Yeah man, thats the only good news so far.. and the fact that it has black paint on the housings means it's a factory Reman I blieve.. (hopefully they used good internals and not bad ones)


ur 300-450hp is that at the crank or the wheels?