well, it's almost time to put ty's 20b back together and i seem to have overlooked the fact that i don't know how to do it :p

i've doen tons of 13b's so it shouldn't be any big whoop.

so do i start from the fatty intermediate and build the back half, then flip 'er over and do the front rotor?

and what's the tension bolt torque sequence?

thanks!!

 

Yes, Back half first. Flip it and continue the front half.
I used the FD's torque spec and order. I turqued the corresponding front bolt right after the rear.

Good luck!

 

thanks,

so i don't actually torque the rears all the way down unti the front's on then, right?

maybe just cinch them up snug until they're all ready?


and what's everyone doing for an adapter? i have an engine stand and everything, but i always do 2-rotors on a 5 gallon bucket. i'd assume it would be fine as long as i can mount the fat intermediate to the stand securely, but that's a lot of weight.

maybe do the back half on a bucket, then gently flip it up on its *** (mop the floor spotless, of course) and do the front...

 

Right, I just snugged them up to hold it together.

 

coo

thanks again

 

My stand could support my 20B on the 80mm thick iron's two threaded holes. It just used two arms on the stand.

 

i thought about that, but i'd have to use something soft because the irons are already painted...with cheap paint. i don't want any scuffs.

if i can make it work that way i'll go for it, otherwise i'll just build the *** on a 5 gallon bucket, then build the front when it's sitting on itself.

 

Try the Q-tip trick. After the engine has been attatched to a stand, some of the paint is bound to come off at the attatchment points. Just scrape the rest off with a razor blade and spray some paint in a small cup and dab a Q-tip into it and then touch up the areas of missing paint. I guess a small paint brush would work too, but Q-tips are disposable.

 

yea, but we used that 3-stage mirage paint...
5 gallon bucket it is