Does anyone know a company that has a 4 rotor crank kit for side port configuration? Theres no 4 rotor forum so I decided to post here hehe. It's always been my long time dream now to build a streetable 4 rotor turbo and I think its time I start planning seeing as I can build my own engines now . Current thoughts are a GTX4508R with a Tial housing with a 2.66 T-56 Magnum transmission. Still need to figure out rear ends and everything else pretty much but my target is 800 rwhp minimum on a mild street port, I want it to idle like butter and don't need the RPM.

thewird

 

Can't think of the name offhand but there is (was?) an Austrailian company that made a 4 rotor e-shaft (not "crank" in a rotary by the way). It was damn expensive. Something like 10k.

 

Kiwi-RE and Xtreme Rotaries both offer a crank kit. But they are all setup for peripheral ports. Scoot also has one but based on the 12A. I sent an e-mail to Kiwi with no reply yet but I figured I'd ask in case anyone knew. I'm well aware of the cost of just the shaft.

thewird

 

Pulse Performance in NZ

 

I don't see how tge e-shaft would govern weather you are using side port or peripheral port...

That is dictated by the irons & housings.

Are you looking for an eccentric shaft by itself, without the irons?

Most companies that build 4 rotor engines go peripheral port because the intake manifold would be a bitch to make for side ports.

 

It does because all the 4 rotor motors I see are designed as a "short" motor. Meaning your using intermediate plates between all housings. By doing this you can't run with side ports because you can't have big secondary ports on the 2 middle housings. You would need something for example like a 20b center plate in the middle to give those housings the big secondary ports.

And yes I'm just looking for the shaft. Well shaft plus modified bearings and/or irons as well as counterweights and such. That's why its usually referred to a crank/shaft kit as just the shaft is useless to you unless your an engineer/machinist to modify your own ****. For example the Kiwi-RE crank kit comes with all this...

1:- Eccentric Shaft
2:- Front counter weight
3:- Rear counter weight
4:- 2 x Centre plates
5:- 2 x Stationary gears (modified)
6:- 2 x Stationary gear carriers
7:- 2 x Stationary gear external oiling mods
8:- Rear main nut
9:- 2 x eccentric shaft end caps

thewird

 

4 rotor = peripheral port


Want to stay sideport, then you should go 20B

Plus you can make the 800hp @ 20psi (low boost) and more torque than you will be able to put on the ground with the 20B.

4 rotor street car is crazy overkill..

 

I think the Granny's Speed Shop used a 20B center iron (an iron that was as wide as a housing) but it has been a ling time since I saw it in person.

If you are serious (as in serious enough to deposit funds) I reccomend contacting Rob Golden @ Pineapple Racing.

I stop by the shop and discuss my 20B build & 4 rotor engines every now & then.

IRS scary how knowledgeable he is about these engines.

 

I'm pretty dead set on on the 4 rotor. It is overkill but that is what I want to do. Only thing that would keep me from doing it is if nobody's made a side port version of the shaft yet as I don't want to pay for R&D.

I'm definitely serious about it. I'm going to be contacting as many people as possible before making any decisions.

thewird

 

No one makes the e-shaft your looking for. Just use a regular 4 rotor crank kit. I know your concerned with the 2 oversized front and rear secondary ports but if you get creative, you can down size them to match them to the primary ports sizes. Or you can spend some serious money on the Aluminum Racing Beat front and rear plates and have them drilled to the sizes of the primary ports. The secondary ports don't need to be secondary size for what your trying to do. With smaller ports, it will only take more boost to get to your power goals with that huge turbo.

 

^ I considered something like that but if I'm going to do that the difference between the 20b and the 4 rotor wouldn't be as big so I may as well do a 20b which would be significantly easier and cheaper to do in comparison.

thewird

 

If your gonna go all out, then go ALL OUT with the 4 rotor regardless if the power levels are the same and regardless if it makes financial sense. These projects NEVER make financial since. What do you think is in my future?

Here is an Autotech 12A based 4rotor. I don't believe they modified the 2 secondary runners at all. They probably just used the EGT's to adjust the injectors trims on the front and rear rotors to match the two middle rotors since they flow differently.

 

if he was going to go with a racing beat peice. why not go with the Racing beat aluminim middle but with 2 sacondary ports on each side to feed the middle 2 rotors. you could use the KIWI shaft, and it would give each rotor equal ports.

like.....

S P P S S P P S
| ▲ | ► | ▼ | ◄

if you REALLY wanted to make an awesome 4 rotor. you could also use the racing beat alum front and rear irons, and have them port all 4 secondary ports equally. all you need after that is 4 rotor housings and 4 rx8 rotors. and then keep it n/a. 500 streetable N/a power or more if you do a Semi PP port setup like defines 430hp 20b setup.

 

The aluminum "irons" are on the to think about list. But the first order of business is the 4 rotor shaft as that is what will start this entire project. I'm also thinking about dry sumping it so I can drop it and push it as far back as possible.

thewird

 

http://http://www.greenbrothers.co.nz/Products.html

4 rotor ecc shaft at bottom of page.

 

The aluminum plates aren't that expensive when you think about how much the entirety of the project is going to cost.

 

I just did a conversion on the amounts and I got $4673.11 for the e-shaft and two modified side plates. Maybe I screwed up but damn that seems WAY cheaper than normal. I remember it being close to 7k for the parts. If I wanted I could easily use the 20b parts I already have to complete a 4 rotor.

$3,850.00 NZ to US $3184.33 for the e-shaft parts.
$1,800.00 NZ to US $1488.78 for the modified center housings.

Anyone know what +GST means?

 

anyone see that 13b needle roller bearing??

my project. replace all bearings with needle roller bearings. think of the engine responce...

 

dont worry about the gst if your over seas jeff bruce from precision engineering makes the parts over here for the guys

 

Do you know the turn around time? Looks like I'll be ordering a 4 rotor e-shaft in my very near future. It may sit on the shelf for a while but at least I'll have it.

 

Just some food for thought, you could go with a short-crank kit using all intermediate irons, but machine semi-pp ports for your "secondaries" instead of side-ports. If you built a manifold/tb to efficiently separate the primaries and peripheral secondaries, it would still start, idle and transition smoothly on the sideport primaries, but be more efficient in the top-end with the semi-pp as secondaries. Just fill in the front and rear iron large secondary ports.

You would still get the size advantage of the short-crank, the better port timing with the semi-pp ports, and smooth driveability from the primaries (as long as you transition them properly) I'm pretty sure you will have to go dry sump regardless for the volume of oil a 4-rotor turbo motor will want.

 

If you check PPRE's website, they have built a 4 rotor side port motor using their kit and the even sell the manifold, it was for a boat and it made over 800hp. I think the manifold complete set up was like 2 or 3 grand

 

Kiwi-RE will apparently make the shaft in any side plate configuration. I'll be asking around anyway to see my options before making my deposit

thewird

 

Almost 4k for a 4 rotor e-shaft? My god... USA manufacturing is lazy if we cant compete with that.

 

You know I'm starting to think about this idea more and more. As well as reducing the length, weight, ease of install, and cost of the keg, it may perform just as well if not better. The intake velocities of all ports will remain high which may just improve efficiency. The transition shouldn't be too hard to do.

thewird