4 Rotor Crank for Side ports?
07-02-11, 01:41 AM
#1
4 Rotor Crank for Side ports?
Does anyone know a company that has a 4 rotor crank kit for side port configuration? Theres no 4 rotor forum so I decided to post here hehe. It's always been my long time dream now to build a streetable 4 rotor turbo and I think its time I start planning seeing as I can build my own engines now 
. Current thoughts are a GTX4508R with a Tial housing with a 2.66 T-56 Magnum transmission. Still need to figure out rear ends and everything else pretty much but my target is 800 rwhp minimum on a mild street port, I want it to idle like butter and don't need the RPM.
thewird
. Current thoughts are a GTX4508R with a Tial housing with a 2.66 T-56 Magnum transmission. Still need to figure out rear ends and everything else pretty much but my target is 800 rwhp minimum on a mild street port, I want it to idle like butter and don't need the RPM.thewird
07-02-11, 08:15 AM
#2
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Can't think of the name offhand but there is (was?) an Austrailian company that made a 4 rotor e-shaft (not "crank" in a rotary by the way). It was damn expensive. Something like 10k.
07-02-11, 09:12 AM
#3
Kiwi-RE and Xtreme Rotaries both offer a crank kit. But they are all setup for peripheral ports. Scoot also has one but based on the 12A. I sent an e-mail to Kiwi with no reply yet but I figured I'd ask in case anyone knew. I'm well aware of the cost of just the shaft.
thewird
thewird
07-02-11, 12:55 PM
#5
I don't see how tge e-shaft would govern weather you are using side port or peripheral port...
That is dictated by the irons & housings.
Are you looking for an eccentric shaft by itself, without the irons?
Most companies that build 4 rotor engines go peripheral port because the intake manifold would be a bitch to make for side ports.
That is dictated by the irons & housings.
Are you looking for an eccentric shaft by itself, without the irons?
Most companies that build 4 rotor engines go peripheral port because the intake manifold would be a bitch to make for side ports.
07-02-11, 12:59 PM
#6
I don't see how tge e-shaft would govern weather you are using side port or peripheral port...
That is dictated by the irons & housings.
Are you looking for an eccentric shaft by itself, without the irons?
Most companies that build 4 rotor engines go peripheral port because the intake manifold would be a bitch to make for side ports.
That is dictated by the irons & housings.
Are you looking for an eccentric shaft by itself, without the irons?
Most companies that build 4 rotor engines go peripheral port because the intake manifold would be a bitch to make for side ports.
And yes I'm just looking for the shaft. Well shaft plus modified bearings and/or irons as well as counterweights and such. That's why its usually referred to a crank/shaft kit as just the shaft is useless to you unless your an engineer/machinist to modify your own ****. For example the Kiwi-RE crank kit comes with all this...
1:- Eccentric Shaft
2:- Front counter weight
3:- Rear counter weight
4:- 2 x Centre plates
5:- 2 x Stationary gears (modified)
6:- 2 x Stationary gear carriers
7:- 2 x Stationary gear external oiling mods
8:- Rear main nut
9:- 2 x eccentric shaft end caps
thewird
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07-02-11, 02:19 PM
#8
I think the Granny's Speed Shop used a 20B center iron (an iron that was as wide as a housing) but it has been a ling time since I saw it in person.
If you are serious (as in serious enough to deposit funds) I reccomend contacting Rob Golden @ Pineapple Racing.
I stop by the shop and discuss my 20B build & 4 rotor engines every now & then.
IRS scary how knowledgeable he is about these engines.
If you are serious (as in serious enough to deposit funds) I reccomend contacting Rob Golden @ Pineapple Racing.
I stop by the shop and discuss my 20B build & 4 rotor engines every now & then.
IRS scary how knowledgeable he is about these engines.
07-02-11, 04:53 PM
#9
I think the Granny's Speed Shop used a 20B center iron (an iron that was as wide as a housing) but it has been a ling time since I saw it in person.
If you are serious (as in serious enough to deposit funds) I reccomend contacting Rob Golden @ Pineapple Racing.
I stop by the shop and discuss my 20B build & 4 rotor engines every now & then.
IRS scary how knowledgeable he is about these engines.
If you are serious (as in serious enough to deposit funds) I reccomend contacting Rob Golden @ Pineapple Racing.
I stop by the shop and discuss my 20B build & 4 rotor engines every now & then.
IRS scary how knowledgeable he is about these engines.
thewird
07-02-11, 05:12 PM
#10
No one makes the e-shaft your looking for. Just use a regular 4 rotor crank kit. I know your concerned with the 2 oversized front and rear secondary ports but if you get creative, you can down size them to match them to the primary ports sizes. Or you can spend some serious money on the Aluminum Racing Beat front and rear plates and have them drilled to the sizes of the primary ports. The secondary ports don't need to be secondary size for what your trying to do. With smaller ports, it will only take more boost to get to your power goals with that huge turbo.
07-02-11, 05:15 PM
#11
^ I considered something like that but if I'm going to do that the difference between the 20b and the 4 rotor wouldn't be as big so I may as well do a 20b which would be significantly easier and cheaper to do in comparison.
thewird
thewird
07-02-11, 05:27 PM
#12
If your gonna go all out, then go ALL OUT with the 4 rotor regardless if the power levels are the same and regardless if it makes financial sense. These projects NEVER make financial since. What do you think is in my future? 
Here is an Autotech 12A based 4rotor. I don't believe they modified the 2 secondary runners at all. They probably just used the EGT's to adjust the injectors trims on the front and rear rotors to match the two middle rotors since they flow differently.
Here is an Autotech 12A based 4rotor. I don't believe they modified the 2 secondary runners at all. They probably just used the EGT's to adjust the injectors trims on the front and rear rotors to match the two middle rotors since they flow differently.
07-02-11, 05:54 PM
#13
No one makes the e-shaft your looking for. Just use a regular 4 rotor crank kit. I know your concerned with the 2 oversized front and rear secondary ports but if you get creative, you can down size them to match them to the primary ports sizes. Or you can spend some serious money on the Aluminum Racing Beat front and rear plates and have them drilled to the sizes of the primary ports. The secondary ports don't need to be secondary size for what your trying to do. With smaller ports, it will only take more boost to get to your power goals with that huge turbo.
like.....
S P P S S P P S
| ▲ | ► | ▼ | ◄
if you REALLY wanted to make an awesome 4 rotor. you could also use the racing beat alum front and rear irons, and have them port all 4 secondary ports equally. all you need after that is 4 rotor housings and 4 rx8 rotors. and then keep it n/a. 500 streetable N/a power
or more if you do a Semi PP port setup like defines 430hp 20b setup.
07-02-11, 06:31 PM
#14
The aluminum "irons" are on the to think about list. But the first order of business is the 4 rotor shaft as that is what will start this entire project. I'm also thinking about dry sumping it so I can drop it and push it as far back as possible.
thewird
thewird
07-02-11, 07:37 PM
#15
07-02-11, 08:55 PM
#17
I just did a conversion on the amounts and I got $4673.11 for the e-shaft and two modified side plates. Maybe I screwed up but damn that seems WAY cheaper than normal. I remember it being close to 7k for the parts. If I wanted I could easily use the 20b parts I already have to complete a 4 rotor.
$3,850.00 NZ to US $3184.33 for the e-shaft parts.
$1,800.00 NZ to US $1488.78 for the modified center housings.
Anyone know what +GST means?
07-03-11, 12:16 AM
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I just did a conversion on the amounts and I got $4673.11 for the e-shaft and two modified side plates. Maybe I screwed up but damn that seems WAY cheaper than normal. I remember it being close to 7k for the parts. If I wanted I could easily use the 20b parts I already have to complete a 4 rotor.
$3,850.00 NZ to US $3184.33 for the e-shaft parts.
$1,800.00 NZ to US $1488.78 for the modified center housings.
Anyone know what +GST means?
$3,850.00 NZ to US $3184.33 for the e-shaft parts.
$1,800.00 NZ to US $1488.78 for the modified center housings.
Anyone know what +GST means?
dont worry about the gst if your over seas jeff bruce from precision engineering makes the parts over here for the guys
07-03-11, 07:13 PM
#21
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Just some food for thought, you could go with a short-crank kit using all intermediate irons, but machine semi-pp ports for your "secondaries" instead of side-ports. If you built a manifold/tb to efficiently separate the primaries and peripheral secondaries, it would still start, idle and transition smoothly on the sideport primaries, but be more efficient in the top-end with the semi-pp as secondaries. Just fill in the front and rear iron large secondary ports.
You would still get the size advantage of the short-crank, the better port timing with the semi-pp ports, and smooth driveability from the primaries (as long as you transition them properly) I'm pretty sure you will have to go dry sump regardless for the volume of oil a 4-rotor turbo motor will want.
You would still get the size advantage of the short-crank, the better port timing with the semi-pp ports, and smooth driveability from the primaries (as long as you transition them properly) I'm pretty sure you will have to go dry sump regardless for the volume of oil a 4-rotor turbo motor will want.
07-04-11, 08:44 PM
#25
Just some food for thought, you could go with a short-crank kit using all intermediate irons, but machine semi-pp ports for your "secondaries" instead of side-ports. If you built a manifold/tb to efficiently separate the primaries and peripheral secondaries, it would still start, idle and transition smoothly on the sideport primaries, but be more efficient in the top-end with the semi-pp as secondaries. Just fill in the front and rear iron large secondary ports.
You would still get the size advantage of the short-crank, the better port timing with the semi-pp ports, and smooth driveability from the primaries (as long as you transition them properly) I'm pretty sure you will have to go dry sump regardless for the volume of oil a 4-rotor turbo motor will want.
You would still get the size advantage of the short-crank, the better port timing with the semi-pp ports, and smooth driveability from the primaries (as long as you transition them properly) I'm pretty sure you will have to go dry sump regardless for the volume of oil a 4-rotor turbo motor will want.
thewird