Hi Everyone. My name is Jason and i have a widebody caged FD but have recently sold my 13b setup for a decent price and am going to build a 20bppt

Im after a bit of advice regarding what parts to use for a 20B peripheral port turbo made from 13b parts. Please dont tell me to just buy a 20b as thats not what im going to do.

The main things i am wondering about are as follows

What Rotor Housings to use?
What rotors to use?
What plates to use?
What front cover to use?

Ive seen some people use the gsl-se housings. Will these be ok for the turbo application or should i be going for the more expensive turbo housings from s4,s5 or s6? If so for what reason?
Im guessing 13bt s4 rotors will be the best option as have the lowest compression ratio?
For the plates (front, rear and two centers) im guessing s6,7 or 8 will be the strongest?
Front cover im not sure on, if i use a s6 front plate will i have to use s6 front cover?


I have already sorted the short 20b crank, counter weights, Peripheral porting to mazda race specs, setup will be doweled and use 12mm through bolts, 3mm goopy seals, dry sump, electric water pump

Apparently rotor lightening is not the best idea due to being hard to balance afterwards, does anyone have views on this for turbo applications?

Please also know i am aware of the cost and i do not want this thread turning into a conversation or argument on cost etc etc which is all i seem to find when searching for answers

26B guys feel free to chime in as its basically the same principal

Any help will be hugely appreciated

 

What Rotor Housings to use? S5 ,13b turbo or 20b
What rotors to use? s4 low com rotors
What plates to use? 13b large dowel pin area
What front cover to use? your choice with dis hole or not depending on what ecu you go with.

Hope that helps.
Thanks
Chip U

 

Cool thanks for the reply. I was talking to my engine builder who recommended 13btt parts all round apart from the rotors but noted that when a 13b middle plate is modded to take the centre bearing its quite weak and will crack the plate when you get up to 900+hp any ideas/views on this?

 

I like the sound of this build. Sounds like a cheaper route to getting 3 rotors

 

Mazdatrix is currently testing their Ti rotors (3 pounds lighter per rotor)

I have contacted them directly to request an alternative to the aluminum bearing carrier, but they seem to think it is a good idea to only be able to implement a bearing 1 time...

 

Who's building your motor for you?

This is interesting to me because I am considering going for a low boost extend port 20B turbo application. All info is good info?....

 

Was going to build it myself but i think for the amount of money involved i will get Green Brothers to do the final assembly and setup as apparently there is a lot involved in getting the e-shaft and housings lining up properly

 

Sorry not sure what you mean? in the short crank 20b and 26b engines you get the centre plates machined to accept a bearing to support the e-shaft. i have since found out you can get 4bearing 3 rotor cranks made so will have support from both plates

 

haha definitely not cheaper... just lighter and if anything fails it will be easier finding replacement parts. will really only work out cheaper in the long run if your doing dry sump, periphial porting, and making custom manifolds

 

I'm talking about the rotor bearing carrier (inside of Mazdatrix's Ti rotor) it is aluminum, menaing not overly durable for multiple bearing changes.

 

nice cant wait for some pictures man!