so the more i get into the rx-3 wagon mission, the harder and harder it's looking to fit it all. with this headache in place, an 87 Turbo II fell into my lap for $300.

so this is the new recipient of the 20b. i've heard of people making bolt-on subframes and bump-steer kits for the fd, does anyone know where to find one for the fc? thanks

 

Ya I would also like to know. You would think someone that is very talented would make a kit of some sort for the do it your self guys to bolt in 20B into a FC. Come on you enigineers get to work

 

I'm not sure what you mean by a subframe for the FC. K2RD or fc3s.com motor mounts are all I know of to help get a 20B in there. There is probably also a front anti-sway bar that fits around the oil pan by now. The last time I checked I think RETed was one of the first to get one.

 

The FC doesn't use a subframe. I am not aware of anybody marketing a 20B-compatible swaybar, but that is something that can be made locally and doesn't require any rotary-engine knowledge. Other options to the swaybar are relocating the engine, or modifying the oil pan and oil pickup.

* BTW, be sure to start with a TII rather than an NA FC.

 

these people sell a bracket http://www.banzairacing.net/

 

We've got the final specs down on the front sway bar for the FC3S.
We started with a prototype 1-1/8" bar, but the bar feels too small for the car - it was understeering with the stock rear bar!
We're going with a 1.25" or 31.5mm bar that should get rid of the understeer issues.
The bar is three holes drilled on each side, and this gives you a lot more tuning options.
The bar should be coming in within the next couple weeks.
We're going to get the car on the track with the larger bar to make sure it works...hopefully within the next couple months.
So I'll update in here when we get the data!
Pricing is about $500 for a full KIT - this incudes the bar, center bushings, and endlinks.
The bar drops into any FC3S chassis and clears almost anything you can throw at it - even extreme radiator and oil cooler relocations.


-Ted

 

banzai racing has what i need

RETed, i also want that bar, please PM me or post on the forum when you have it ready, i'll definitely take one

thanks everyone

 

I'm interested in the sway bar when you have them ready also.

-Destin

 

has anyone used the engine brackets and mounts from www.banzairacing.net ?
if so, how you likin' em?

 

I'm curious why you say that. I've read on here and gathered enough info to realize that it didn't matter what trim FC to get. I guess I could see you saying that if the person wanted to keep the power low and use the stock rear end and trans. But if I'm replacing all of that with biger, better parts.....what other reason would I want a TII?

 

Most people don't want to spend the extra $10,000 to $30,000 on "bigger, better parts" when the TII can handle a stock-block, stock-turbo 20B-REW just fine, especially given that a TII with a blown engine is about the same price as an NA FC with a blown engine. Also, it is a lot easier and cheaper to cut out the bottom of the TII hood scoop rather than relocate the steering rack, make a custom intake manifold, or buy an aftermarket hood.

 

Our 20B FC with NO TURBOS made 190 lb-ft at the wheels.
This kinda torque will KILL non-turbo drivetrains.
The FC turbo drivetrains parts (transmission, driveshaft, rear diff, rear axles) are all larger and stronger.
It kinda makes common sense?
A 20B with stock turbos will shred the NA drivetrain parts for breakfast.
Or you going to granny drive your 20B FC?


-Ted

 

They're all going to be replaced. I see no need to buy a 3 rotor if I don't plan to push it.

 

The FC chassis was designed to hold a 3 rotor in mind.