Well i decided to update my last retarded 20b post i managed after a few weeks to find the parts i needed and found alot of compatable parts with a little research and money i was able to get ahold of the stock ecu, pedistal, and for the most part everything else i will need to replace or want to replace with new things... i also have the ,banzai mounts, t2 tranny and motor in the car as well :P heres what its like so far...havent got around to putting in the harness yet but i also have it. seems to be going well so far what do you think?

 

So your not going to hand over the 40k most people do to put another rotor in your car? I just don't understand how this swap can be so difficult. Are you going NA p port. They have one of the best exhaust notes i have ever heard. Its amazing how adding another rotor makes one of the worst sounding cars go to the best sounding.

 

You will never know till you try it.

 

wtf are you talking about?

 

umm most complete swaps are around the 20k range unless your gonna do a complete interior and ext...sound system included..as for N/A no im running a parallel setup when i get around to it and a complete 3inch fab. exaust but thats after i get ahold of these parts...


Coilovers (suspention) http://www.tein.com/products/flex.html)

**ACT Clutch Kit Z65-XXG6 spring centered

**Mazda RX-7/8 Carbonetic Carbon 2.0 Way Limited Slip Differential (http://5xracing.com/i-2874913-mazda-...ferential.html)

brakes front,rear (http://www.ksportusa.com/asp/brake_k...roduct_id=bk07)

stand alone (http://www.staticxmotorsports.com/ha...noharness.aspx)

**fuel pump (http://www.venom-performance.com/ind...flow_fuel_pump)

**Duralast Import / Starter

**ACPT Carbon Fiber Driveshaft Mazda RX7 88-92? dimentions (http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/a...92-p-9397.html)

**ic 24r 1987 rx7 (http://www.momentumgt.com/greddy-int...24r-p-696.html)

**koyorad 1987 rx7 (http://www.vexmotorsports.com/Koyo-R...88_p_1924.html)

**electric fan flex-a-lite 160 (http://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-160-.../dp/B001DTSWDO)

atleast thats all im planning for now hopefully i dont run into to many issues

 

Is right!..

 

Looks like it is coming right along. Did you compression test the engine once you were able to hook a starter up to it? Nothing worse then dropping in an engine just to find it needs to come right back out for a rebuild.

Just to let you know we carry the Carbonetics diff, Koyo, Tein, Greddy, etc and are prices are less then every one of the links that you provided.

 

really.. actually at the moment i havent ordered any of it yet because the shop im going through to order everything is in the middle of opening another shop but i hadnt really checked out the other stuff on banzai until now ill be sure to tell the shop..to order most of it from you if its cheaper on me ...even though some of the things i see dont appear on that site i dont think.

as for the motor itself i ordered it from jdm and there supposed to already be rebuilt before i get it ..could be wrong but i havent actually got the starter...i would have it..but like i said the shop im renting" sorta" is busy as soon as i do ill be sure to compression test..its really in development im still in the process of getting it set up so i can do everything i need to start it..

 

I have never seen a rebuilt j-spec where someone went through the hassel of re-installing the cut engine harness, chopped oil lines, etc. If it is rebuilt you will be able to see hylomar between each plate and new sealant on the housings legs as well as the oil pan. In your case you should be able to see brand new gaskets for the LIM to block.

We do not carry every part you have listed (no venom fuel pumps) but the parts we do carry are less expensive. Just comething to keep in mind. Save a hundred here and there and it can shave a thousand or two off the whole project.

 

Damn.. Yeah I guess I really had no idea - thanks for the tips;

 

went through and recalculated prices i think i save close to 1k from you and shipping ...so when i get my taxes back.. :P they will all be gone :P

 

*couldnt edit my post to add this one* sorry

by thew way say if i was to go to 6-800 whp what kinda of clutch should i be looking for the maxx i found from act was only rated at 678 for torque or something is that enough?

 

twin or tripple disk.

 

hmm i would say twin because its not really gonna be just a track car..

 

A basic do-it-yourself engine swap is usually about $10-20K. A professional shop usually charges about $35K for the engine swap and suspension/drivetrain upgrade. A well-built 600-800hp setup similar to what you are considering will cost about $50K. A show car with complete interior and exterior is about $200K for professional work.

The complete 3" exhaust for my car was about $1700 for parts and labor from a quality race shop, not including mufflers or manifold.

I am not familiar with K-Sport brakes, but based on the quality of their suspension I would not use their brakes on my car unless it was just for car shows.

Venom sucks. Go with a quality brand like Aeromotive or SX, or see what Banzai-Racing has for sale. You will most likely need 2 pumps to support 800hp, along with custom fuel lines and rails, aftermarket fuel filters and fuel pump regulator, and larger fuel injectors. If you plan to race the car on the track, you should first check the racing rules to see if there are any special requirements (fuel cell, vent, sample port, etc.). To give you an idea on pricing, my car has over $3,500 of fuel system components, and that is to support only 650hp max.

I don't think a drop-in Koyo is going to work for an 800hp car unless it is strictly used for drag racing.

You are going to need way more than that for an 800hp car. Given that list, you are looking at something near the 375-400hp range. Therefore, you may want to reconsider your power goals, as it will be easier and cheaper to shoot for the 375-400hp range, which should be plenty fast given the extra torque of the 20B.

If you insist on the 600-800hp range, then talk to your race shop about clutches. They will explain the difference in clutch types, and whether or not you will need a special flywheel, special throwout bearing, and/or balancing. A multi-disk clutch pack, special flywheel, special throwout bearing, and special counterweight is usually about $1,200 to $2,500 for parts.

 

I run the Exedy twin disc on my FD, the FC version is less far expensive


http://banzai-racing.com/store/86-91...dy_clutch.html

 

Do you have a p/n breakdown of the two triples(fd & fc)?
Are the discs different spline count?

 

Turbo II FC & FD have the same spline. They use the same discs, the pressure plate is the difference, push vs. pull style.

Disc Outer Diameter 200mm
Spline Teeth / Major Diameter 23T / 26.4mm

I forgot that we recently lowered our prices on the FD Exedy kits to the same price as the FC for the single and twin kits. If you are looking for the even more exteme Carbon disc kits we can get them also, but they are much more expensive.

 

I've got some here - one needs the 3rd disc replaced.

Found all my answers here:
http://www.exedy-racing.com/pro/repair_3.html

 

Thats Future plans for a lot later ..6-800rwhp is kinda not reallywhat im looking for yet ..just kind of a goal to get to eventually after ive learned more about my car personally to begin with.... i just put the k-sport up there because they have a complete set..and an example i did not plan on usuing them rotora maybe.......but as i think i said before im just trying to get the engine started..so im up for changes and parts as long as i know they will work better,

 

Yeah, that is a good idea. The stock fuel injectors are good for about 400bhp, so that would be a good target for the initial build. Just in case you think that isn't going to be fast, read here about a car running a 20B in the 400hp +/- range:
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/reason-feel-smug-886208/

This one made 476hp on the dyno:
http://www.7parts.com/erikstrelnieks.html

 

oh im not to worried about the fast aspect as i am learning to drive the car at power ect....i mean i got my friends stock 13b up to about 160..with minor int.. rad..and exaust changes so i know these motors are especially powerful..but all advice is welcome cuase id really like it to come together well without having the motor itself at risk as well as have wonderful handling and control :P

 

New update well as far as things go i have almost everything on order looking for the original start :P im still looking for a fuel pump not being able to find the stock pressures and such is kinda making this a pain in the *** :P and i dont think anyone makes the custom sway bar? also i need the mount"bracket" for the t2 tranny since the na's was a different..but ill worry about that before i drive away drop by a junk yard or somethin :p
anyway for the most part everything is coming from banzai for the most part...ive been investing a lot in this project..so when it comes time im hoping everything goes well and i dont wanna run tio snags...by the way when it comes into the break in period what recomended rpms, and top speed not to exceed would you recomend

 

goodluck

 

well im going with the Walbro 255 LPH High Pressure Fuel Pump with the Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator A1000-6 so i can set it around the stock pressures which i think are 35-40....with stock settings ...and im trying to order the driveshaft but im not sure if it will fit with my current setup :P