changjune85

iTrader: (4)

If anyone here have same issue overheating. i had trouble staying cool, temperature outside 90 degrees, gauge climbing up to 240f and goes down to 200f while idling, but temp stays between 220-240 f. I do have Oem electric fans still vertical position mounted behind my FMIC, which may block flow into radiator. i know i have undertray to cool down engine as well, just never had chance to install it. i would like to keep my setup how it is now. anyways here is what I've done.

Oem e-fans. all stock no mod other then bypass to keep fan running high all times.
Koyo N flow radiator installed
replaced oem waterpump
installed Pineapple BT waterpump pulley kit, so belt will not slip
Using Evans coolant
sard thermostats

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

Hey man,

I feel for ya. Similar issue but not nearly as bad as you.

Koyo, FMIC etc and 80mm turbocharger.

@ 100F temps outside the car sits around 215-220F in traffic with fans running at idle or low load. Interstate cruising w/ better airflow it will come down to 200-205F. There's just no getting around it.

The biggest thing to help was raising the intercooler just slightly so that there is a path under the intercooler / opening in the bumper nose to allow airflow under the I/C and to the radiator. A path by which the fans can pull air.

The EWP is also helpful, because it takes the fear out of running up to 220-230F. You can immediately switch off the engine, even while coasting on the interstate for a few seconds, keep the EWP running and temps will drop 10F in a matter of seconds. This isn't possible on mechanical pump and in fact motor would increase a few degree's when shut off.

I'm still trying to find a way to get temps down further, but I don't think there's much left.



I'm going to swap out the fan motors to the RX8 Motors + Blades. They bolt into the FD shroud, and although there are no published numbers, they likely flow more CFM and also have a higher blade count.

My 20b also has aftermarket dual oil coolers, this helped tremendously So consider this option too if you haven't already done so.

In order of priority:

1. small opening under the intercooler for fans to pull fresh air under the core
2. dual oil coolers
3. EWP


P.S. - Keep in mind, Evans reportedly runs significantly hotter than water as the thicker coolant retains more heat. So although the boiling point it raised, you will see a good deal higher temperatures on your gauge. Whether this matters or not, aka cancelled out by the fact that boiling point is way higher is debatable.

t-von

iTrader: (8)

If you want max cooling, you should install a 2nd gen water pump or the 20b unit. The impellers move more water and are larger in diameter. I have a large A/C condensor in front of my 3 row 2nd gen Supra radiator. It's the exact same size as the radiator ( so it almost acts like a front mount because it blocks the radiator ) and my temps never go over 200 degrees at idle in 100 degree weather when the fans kick in.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

This makes me think the fans arent running correctly as surely the ewp should outflow a mechanical pump of any model at idle and yet temps creep

changjune85

iTrader: (4)

Koo thanks guys for replys. Although Evans actually did lower temp down by 20f. I'll look into mod lower lip to let some air into radiator. I probably should replace stock efans and install my undertray which should help.

changjune85

iTrader: (4)

Yet again ewp maybe. I know u cannot run Evans with ewp. When I do push peddle a bit, temp goes go down a bit too. Maybe fd w\p isn't as efficient running a bigger 3 rotor motor.

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

evans lowered the temp by 20F? Really that sounds perfect! Where did you hear it can be run with EWP?

changjune85

iTrader: (4)

Ewp can't run with Evans coolant. Ppl who sell ewp told me u cannot use evans

Monsterbox

iTrader: (6)

hmm wonder why, my guess would be the thickness of Evan's drives up the amp draw too high and slows the pump wears it out