20b questions... plese help!!!!

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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Cool 20b questions... plese help!!!!

hi i just bought 20b for my FD nd wanted to swap the twins for a single and was curious on what steps should be taken first to make sure it will run safely??
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 02:43 PM
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is the 20b already in your fd? if not how did you plan to put it in there?
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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^ lol
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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i'm not sure what you're lol'ing about, i was asking a legitimate question.
are you going to use an "off-the-shelf" subframe? if so which one?
are you going to use a mount kit like mine?
are you going to custom fab your own setup? if so do you intend to push it back?

i guess i missed something...
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 04:56 PM
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I guess the funny part is that there are like 40000 threads with the same question and the same set of answers. Oh, and the FAQ.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 08:25 PM
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You mean the 20b doesnt bolt right into the FD?
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BLK FC3S
You mean the 20b doesnt bolt right into the FD?

Wut!?!?!? It's not plug and play....i'm telling honda. :p
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rx7kid511
what steps should be taken first to make sure it will run safely??
1. Put the car and engine on a trailer.
2. Transport it to Pettit.
http://www.pettitracing.com/
3. Drop off the car, engine, and about $40,000.
4. Come back about 3 months later and drive home your safely-running car.

Otherwise, the safest thing is to sell the 20B and put the original engine back in the car.
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 01:48 PM
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i the 20b is not in yet and i bought a subframe from a guy who makes them a couple bays down from me and he works on only 20b's and is a goof friend and will put it in for me... and i was thinking of pushing it back but dont think i am goign to
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Old Jan 13, 2008 | 01:49 PM
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good**
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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I think you should consider the Defined Autoworks kit. The stock subframe is retained, the steering rack is kept in the original location, and it is relatively inexpensive.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
1. Put the car and engine on a trailer.
2. Transport it to Pettit.
http://www.pettitracing.com/
3. Drop off the car, engine, and about $40,000.
4. Come back about 3 months later and drive home your safely-running car.

Otherwise, the safest thing is to sell the 20B and put the original engine back in the car.
Best advice yet
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 02:42 PM
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One other option is:

1) Go to bank and withdraw everything you have (maybe even take out a personal loan) - small bills are better and will contribute to the overall effect.
2) Put the money in a pile, preferably outside but in a warehouse or something will do.
3) Douse in gasoline, preferably high octane leaded.
4) Light.

Last edited by thetech; Jan 14, 2008 at 02:47 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Best advice yet
I'm suprised you'd say that knowing the rocky experience David had doing the same thing, in addition to the bumpsteer created by relocating the steering rack using their subframe.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
Best advice yet
40k... what a bargain

You'd have to be a moron to pay anywhere near that for a 20B conversion
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Rotary20B
40k... what a bargain

You'd have to be a moron to pay anywhere near that for a 20B conversion
Right, you would have to be a moron to convert to a 20B. So what is your point? LOL
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 06:42 AM
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if your friend is going to do the conversion for you, then why don't you think he's qualified to advise you?
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CMonakar
I'm suprised you'd say that knowing the rocky experience David had doing the same thing, in addition to the bumpsteer created by relocating the steering rack using their subframe.
Yep, I was going to say something about this but decided not to. Regarding bumpsteer, I have none. Interestingly I finally got to see how Pettit resolved this by cutting/modifying/welding the spindles. They're about an inch shorter now than stock. Eliminates the need for a bumpsteer correction kit but it has me worried about the reliability of the welding. Everything looks good but you never know. I'm not a big fan of cutting and welding parts, especially those that hold the wheels on the car.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Rotary20B
40k... what a bargain

You'd have to be a moron to pay anywhere near that for a 20B conversion
Good luck paying less than $30K for the conversion. My three years of experience says this is what you'll pay on the low end if a shop does the work for you. You can get it done cheaper ($15-20K) if you are able to do the work yourself. If you take it to a shop, choose the shop wisely. If not, you'll just end up having all of the work redone and it will cost you way more than $40K. See my thread on this.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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Wow.. you guys get ripped with Mazda's over there. I remember when I lived there everything Rotary related was expensive, V8 parts & accessories were dirt cheap though.

Costs around 15-20k aussie here for a full conversion at a workshop including engine (13.5 - 18k USD)

I paid a bit less than this as I had been going to this workshop for over 10 years.

I paid around 11k all up, including rebuilding the engine for the full setup into a first gen, around 6k later for the turbo setup, new turbo, indy blues, intercooler, etc etc so around 15k USD, everything was bought new. Except for the microtech.

Has anyone had a quote off Logan?

How the #&*! can they justify 40k??? Thats rediculous.

Last edited by Rotary20B; Jan 15, 2008 at 08:44 AM. Reason: added pricing
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by David Hayes
Yep, I was going to say something about this but decided not to. Regarding bumpsteer, I have none. Interestingly I finally got to see how Pettit resolved this by cutting/modifying/welding the spindles. They're about an inch shorter now than stock. Eliminates the need for a bumpsteer correction kit but it has me worried about the reliability of the welding. Everything looks good but you never know. I'm not a big fan of cutting and welding parts, especially those that hold the wheels on the car.
So you pay 40k to these blokes and get a shoddy job?

Maybe you should have mentioned this before some other sucker took there car there, with your 3 years experience and all..
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:31 AM
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There is a huge thread on this in the 3rd gen section. Dropping a 20b in a 3rd gen is a little more complicated than dropping it in a 1st or 2nd gen.

David has shared a lot of knowledge w/ different shops w/ his trials and tribulations for finding the perfect 7.

I suggest you read the thread before you make acusations.
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