i would if i could ...in the process of getting the money for a rx 7 . Car cost alot of **** here .. almost a house or apartment cause of the land restraints

 

i was talk more along the lines of fuse box, wiring n hoses .etc that sorta thing

 

I'm making my own, so far I think I've spent a couple days work and about $15 and I have the whole front 1/2 done with the rack droped and all the mounting etc done. The sub frame I'm making will be a hell of a lot stronger than the one Pettit or any one else sells that I've seen. I'll probably have a total of about $30 worth of steel and welding wire expense when all is said and done... In about 2 weeks after I finish up a couple of my customers cars I'm going to go knee deep in to my car and try to have the 20B in and running by somtime in early september..

Here is a pic of the upper and lower intake manifolds I've modified, you can also see the fuel rails I've made for the 1680 secondary and 1000cc primary injectors.

 

It is a Holly 95mm Ford 5.0 throttle body mounted to the upper intake by the way.

I also ordered a microtec ltx12 that should be here next week and I will be running 6 Accel GM type coils and a 34 row and 25 row setrab oil coolers as well

 

Hey Dragon... Didn't you used to have a yellow car?

 

It's going in my Yellow FD, I'm using my other Red FD (going to be a drag car eventually) to fabricate all the stuff so I'll have less down time with my car. I'm actually cutting up and rebuilding the stock subframe to make it stronger and to make the 20B fit.

 

How much hp had/has the yellow car? What are your plans for the 20B?
Weight difference?

 

It'll be a daily driven drag car, I'm shooting for a easy 600 at first and I'd like to have a solid 700 to the wheels when all is said and done.. I'm not really worried about handling... On the large side ported 13B I was boosting 1.6-1.7 with a T70 a/r .84 compressor, P trim a/r 1.15 exaust for a while till is spun the front stationary gear bearing, and running 550 primarys, 1680 secondarys and 2 more 720's in the primary runners that came on line with the secondary injectors for 5,900cc's of fuel and I was hitting 78% on the injectors @ 3.8 kgcm of fuel pressure with dual walboro pumps.. I'm leaving the car down now and hitting it full on here in a week or two to get the 20B in and running...

 

Dragon, is it safe to assume that your modified stock sub-frame sits the engine a little higher? Is this the reason you cut the LIM to lower the UIM to clear the hood? You did cut and reweld the LIM didn't you? Thats what it looks like to me.

 

What seals did you use on the 13B? Hp?
I think your best 150m with the yellow car was 6.5sec at 138kph?

 

Actually I did a whole slew of 6.45 scond passes with the TO4R and then once I put on the T70 and turned on the boost I ran a couple of 6.39 second passes. I use Atkins seals on my engines and I have no idea of what kind of power I was putting down. I actually was trying to dyno the car at the time I seized and spun the front stationary gear bearing, and I'll attach the dyno sheet that shows my rear wheel hp, lol.. don't forget this is the hp - the huge power loss from a seizing bearing followed by rotor tips hitting the rotor housing...

 

actually I bolted a FD rear plate and mounts to the 20B and stuck it in the stock subframe so it would sit in the stock location.. It barly doesn't clear the hood, so I made sure it would.. I also want to be able and use a strut tower bar to help reenforce the front end of the car is the other reason. The rack and pinion has been droped aproximatly 10cm's, once everything is in the car I'm going to work on the spindle/lowered rack issue, but I'm thinking about modding the actual tie rods to include a couple of bends and then reenforcing those area's...

 

It looks like a homeless guy lives in there

 

lol.. I spent many night there waiting for the sun to come up living on cigaretts and Mountain Dew...

 

Chris,
Out of curiosity, does the 20B have the engine mount studs in the same place as the 13B RE and in the intermediate plate as well? Just curious as I may be able to just reuse my RE mounts with the 20B. I'm thinking stock subframe and 20B oil pan and modified intake manifold OR dry sump/modified engine mounts (to position even lower) and modified/aftermarket 20B intake manifold. If the studs aren't there I may reuse some of the Cosmo plates and go from there. Naturally the tranny would not be in the stock location but the front rotor would which is what I'm shooting for.

 

yes they are exactly the same

mike