No not always. That's just something I would personally replace because of hearing storeys of them not working properly causing pressure loss under boost. Ted even you understand what happens to our engines any time there is fuel delivery problems with our rotarys under boost? I may be cheap in some situations, but I don't skimp on the things that I know may/will cause problems.

 

Here's something to think about Herb. Doing it right the first time doesn't always guarantee you still wont blow the engine due to ignorance which happens all the time on this forum. A freshly "fully" rebuilt engine is just as capable of blowing as a used engine with higher mileage.

 

A) Truthfully no one can answer that question since the apex seals are usually the seals that go first under detonation or break because of carbon lock. The facts are that the other rotor seal components aren't under no where near as much stress as the apex seals.

B) That depends on your definition of high power? 500 hp on a larger displacement 20b is completely differant than that same hp on a 13b. Again the brittle stock 3 piece apex seals are the weak link on a higher mileage rotary, not the other rotor seals.

 

"Viton coolant seals"?
Never heard of them.

If you're talking about the McMaster-Carr teflon-silicone o-rings, then I wholeheartedly endorse them.
I dunno why others are having trouble, but I use them on my engine, and all my customers engines.


-Ted

 

Ah, I understand.
I was a bit puzzled, because you recommended a Walbro upgrade fuel pump but required to change out the stock FPR.

If we were going to go with an aftermarket FPR, I would've at least expected an Aeromotive / SX / Bosch 044 fuel pump(s).


-Ted

 

Yes that's what I meant. Duh For some reason I always think that the reusable coolant seals where Viton. Viton is what's used on the upgraded rotor oil seals. I just get the terminology mixed up. Sorry again for the confusion.

 

this thread is so redundant. I can't believe you guys are still trying to convince him. This is an astronomical job money wise and is not guaranteed anything. You don't have the money and neither does 95% of the rest of us to do this. I will comment that if you do have the money to do this, you probably didn't get that much money by being stupid and sinking 30 grand into something that will never get your money back. That is not how investing works. So you either have the money to swallow or are crazy enough to do it. I for one say do it. then we will never hear from you again, you will be too busy working to pay yourself back for the mistake. Phil and Ramy are damn right about everything they said. BTW Dave Hayes still hasn't got his running right. I have been reading about it ever since I became a member here, which is like 2 years. Figure it out. Dumb idea. PERIOD

 

RX7 from Heaven, good luck on your project, I hope it works out for you

 

What are you talking about still not running right? The main problem David had with his 20b conversion is that Pettit was having a problem with the Wolf ecu. Cam was unaware that the ecu was defective causing tuning problems. To add David's 20b was one of the first to have the newer Wolf ecu's. Being the sacrificial lamb, Chis (wolf's representative) had to come down to FL to wire the thing up because Cam wasn't familiar with it. This wouldn't have been an issue had Cam used an Ecu he was familiar with. Also lately David has had the car in CA for some more specialized upgrading.


To each his own.

 

look guys i never posted this thread to start a fight or anything like that. ramy you're not reading everything i write bro. i said that i wrote something else from what i was thinking about the rebuilding and porting. i said it would cost 800 to 1000 (NOT JUST 800; 800 to 1000) just for the porting. if once i take apart the engine and realize that my engine needs a rebuild (which by the way the people i'm getting my engine from are guaranteeing that everything is intact with great shape for i will not need a rebuild at the moment, but you never know. i don't want to take their word for it and then be sorry) then i will get new seals and everything else that i need a replacement of. but if once i take apart the engine and realize that it just needs some porting, cleaning, and new gaskets, then i don't know about you but i aint gonna waste my money on a rebuild. i've had my rx-7 for quite some time now and i still haven't blown my engine and i have never rebuilt it myself. the person i bought it from a while back had and he had also ported it and i trusted once i got a compression check. and the "special" mechanic you guys are sayin is my fault for goin to a bad guy is gazo. the reason i went to him is because this damn forum had told me to. everyone that lives around here says that he's a really good mechanic and that he knows what he's doin, but charges a bit much. i'm not putting him down (trust me he knows what he's doin) but he does charge a bit much for everything that he does. look him up in these forums and you'll see that he's not a bad mechanic. so now i'll go back on what i said earlier and repeat myself. working on rx-7s isn't as hard as everyone puts it and they're not hard to learn how to work with either. you can do most of the work yourself without paying the same "top dollar" that you pay. you're right obviously if you don't have time it's better to take your car to a mechanic, but overall i was saying you can do almost all things on an rx-7 yourself. i will again repeat myself: i was just counting porting as 800 to 1000, not porting and new 3mm apex seals. and if you know anything about rx-7s you'll know that 500 to 600 hp on a 13b isn't the same as 500 to 600 hp on a 20b in the reliable sense. make 500 to 600 hp on your 13b and keep that same horse power for a good amount of time and make that same horse power on a 20b and keep it for the same amount of time that it takes your 13b to blow up and then we'll talk. if i could have the same horse power with less mods on a bigger engine which in turn becomes more reliable, i've got to be stupid not to pay the same amount or even a bit more. at the end, the amount of money you spend in all will either be less, or at most the same. trust me i've done my math and figured it all out with even rounding up every little thing. thanks for helpin me and thanks for the support and wish you all much luck with your own agendas. i'll report back step by step on everything i did with videos and pictures to show you guys once i'm all done. see ya...

 

In simple terms yes, used or fully built engine will blow up depend on tuning and such. I am fully aware of that! I'm not sure if you are just pushing buttons so that this thread turns in to some debate.. but as I said earlier on, building 20B is limitless to what you want to do. If I'm going to spend 3k on Mazda comp drysump system, why not spend another 1.5k on new seals and such. Instead something else going wrong later on because I don't know the mileage, condition, etc. I would know the condition from the start. For me that's worth the money in the beginning. And Its not just about blowing the engine.

 

All the sudden, I feel like you have become an expert. Well, you are correct. 500HP 2 rotor isn't same as 500HP 3 rotor.

Also you might want to consider handling of 500HP FD and 500HP 3rotor FD with modified subframe. Even with bump steer correction kit, its not the same.

I'll stop here..

Good luck with your project. Hope everything works out!

 

No I'm not pushing buttons. Just trying to give you guys a different point of view because nothing is full proof. I truly understand your reasoning and intentions with your project and will never question the things you want to do with it. It's your money and your car. I just can't stand when people say that these engines need a rebuild when a lot of times they don't.

 

Not if he hooks up with GtoRx7 and installs his 20b the way he did. He has no bumpesteer with stock subframe and will send you modified parts for around 1,500 to have a similar install. That's a better deal than spending the same amount of money for a custom fabicated sub-frame that moves the rack.

 

Amazing how we argue amongst our selves.

 

Arguing is one thing, having a difference in opinion or point of view is something else. I don't think where arguing.

 

Shutup T-von. You're WRONG. LOL j/k. Yea I don't think we're arguing. Just a discussion among opinionated ppl.

 

Yes, that is an option also. I was thinking about his set up and I almost went up there last weekend to check i out. I definitely like how he did his alternator relocation.

 

Well my original engine in my Fd has officially surpassed 100k. Here in the next couple months or so, I'm going to pull the engine and fix a lot of minor issues. While the engine is out, I'm going to start some of the fab work for my 20b install. I think that will be a really good time for me to officially figure out how I'm going to mount the engine. GtoRx7's method just seems to easy not to try.