Thanks

Full swap, with workshop doing everything is just under 10k USD. That includes everything from initial purchase price of engine, to full rebuild, ecu, clutch, gearbox, full system, radiator, exhaust etc.

 

Well finally got the car rego'd this morning, it passed engineers on Friday and is now rego'd.

It's hard to hold back while running it in.. just feels like it wants to go.

 

If anyone wants to hear what it sounds like being driven..

www.rotary20b.com/videos/rotary20b2.mpg (8.56 mb)

 

The car is now blue plated (engineered) and road registered. As you can see from the videos it doesn't sound like a turbo 20B, it has its own unique sound. I get a lot of people asking what's under the bonnet, from people thinking Chev V8s to one bloke saying it sounds like a F3000.

A lot of people are asking what it is like to drive. As this stage I am still running it in, but have to say it is very impressive. It is a totally different car to drive from my old 13B bridge ports. A 20B with 4.4 diff gears makes for plenty of torque. No more starting off in first gear unless it's a very steep incline, you can if you want take a corner in 4th at 40km/h and it will pull out of the corner effortlessly.

 

Took a couple of videos while running in the engine

Nothing too exciting but gives you an idea of what it sounds like


Coming off highway, changing down through gears (5.9 mb)

http://www.rotary20b.com/videos/carseldine.mpg


Taking off in second gear, pulling onto highway accelerating up to 100 ks (5.6 mb)

http://www.rotary20b.com/videos/highway.mpg

 

she sounds good one day i'd love to have a 20B in my first gen

 

Just had it dyno'd

208 hp @7800 rpm
434 ft lbs

Dyno reads around 15% less than a Dynojet

 

Hey dood whats ur secret to make teh rotary engine have 2x more torque than hp? Nobody else ever done that I think. Would it work with a 12a or 13b or you gotta have a 20b? That would be cool for drifting yo.

 

lol you need 20B

 

Your torque figures are way off. You should be around 190 ft lbs with the stock UIM & LIM. Also your missing a few ponys. Reted tuned a stock block un-ported NA 20b and it made 232 whp. Are you still using the stock twin turbo manifold for your exhaust? If so that would explain the hp differance. Anyways, that's still nice numbers for the light weight 1st gen.

 

208?
I'd tack on another 10% just to adjust to the DynoJet numbers, so we're looking at right around 230, which is very close to our 232 we made!

That 400+ lb-ft is a little bit odd, and I think it has to do with backing out N-m units?


-Ted

 

It is running custom made extractors, no turbos.

The car is also running a stock (not high flow cat converter)

We will be running it again next week without the cat to see what it makes.

Here's a copy of the dyno graph

www.rotary20b.com/dyno-sm2.jpg


This is an article explaining the differences between the dynos

"Recent dyno figures from the united states have been indicating that American engines produce more power easier than the same engine in Australia. This is in fact not the case because of recent information that has confirmed my long term belief that the Australian dyno dynamics chassis dynos are giving lower horsepower readings than the American DynoJet chassis dynos. The difference between readings is approximately 15%. Using the following example its easy to see why.

We will use flywheel horsepower as our base line and assume our engine has made 560 Horsepower on an engine dyno.

American engine builders i talk to typically have used 12-15% as a drive train loss figure because they use the DynoJet chassis dyno. And using our 560 flywheel hp figure would expect around 476 Rear wheel hp on a DynoJet chassis dyno in the USA. The problem i had with this was that my first supercharged 355 Holden engine did produce 560 flywheel hp on and engine dyno but when i put it on a Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno at summernats 12 it only produced 389 rear wheel hp! So that would indicate a 27% drive train loss taking into account the higher altitude in Canberra compared to Brisbane where i achieved the 560 flywheel hp. I decided to Email the dyno shop in the USA who had both Dyno Dynamics and Dyno Jet dynos and found that they at one stage used the same car on both dynos to see what difference there was. They agreed with my calculations which indicated that their dyno readings were apprixmately 15% higher than ours and then went on to say that they have calibrated their Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno using a 1.15 error correction factor which brings its readings up higher to equal their DynoJet chassis dyno readings!

OK so finally you can rest assured that Australian engines do produce the same power that the American engines have been."

 

Yeah you are right. This particular dyno reads very low, even compared to a dyno dynamics, which in turn reads 12-15% under a dynojet

I think the cat is killing it a bit too, the car has awesome torque, can hill start in 3rd if you like, not probs pulling away from lights in 5th, I never use 1st gear anymore.

Do you have a graph of the na 20b you tuned? What plugs are you using in it too?

I'm having heaps of probs with fouling plugs

 

Here you go. Check Ted's home page for the project pics.

 

We're using all NGK BUR9EQ plugs in all 6 positions.


-Ted

 

434 ft-lbs of torque? That is NOT possible to the wheels without boost, something is very wrong with that picture. Good dyno run, we should all dyno on THAT dyno, it would put any V8 to shame, haha.

 

lol you need a clue if you think that torque iz normal for a rotary. That aint even normal for a piston engine dood.

 

Just an update for anyone that is interested.

Something went wrong with the efi fuel hose, it was sucking flat.

So new surge tank went in that allowed fuel hose to be directly inline with pumps.

Changed plugs from BUR7EQs to BUR9EQs to BR8ETs, the BR8ETs are deffinately the plug of choice for a n/a 20B

Result of fuel hose & plug change was huge, picked up over 30 hp at the wheels.

It is now putting out 240 hp at the wheels with still more left in it.

 

great job, keep it up!!!!-Erik ( more pix....LOL)

 

Got any pics of the improved fuel set-up?

 

No I didn't have a camera on me while it was up on the hoist sorry.

I will get some pics next time.

 

hmmm intresting
how did you use the turbo top manifold on the engine
but very sweet
how does it prrrrrr

 

Just bolts up as normal with a blanking plate.

Heaps quicker than any of my 13B bridge ports, i have some sounds on my website
will put some more sounds & vids up soon

 

Clean FB and nice conversion.... but those have got to be the worst videos I've ever seen what the potential of a 20B can do in a lightweight FB.

Please use the skinny pedal on the right as that actually makes the car go. Are you driving your grandmother to get new knickers from the Pharmacy?

We want some video of that thing going to 7K in all gears....

 

Correction:

We want some video of that thing going to 8.5K in all gears....