Hey guys,

Well I'm at the point that I'm trying to figure out which ECU I should go with. Here's the two main ones I've been considering:

1. Autronic SM4: lots of outputs/inputs, powerful, accurate, extremely flexible/open-ended software, expensive but not a fortune.

2. ElectromotiveTEC3R: accurate, expensive but includes a very nice ignition system.

3- Haltech: Don't know too much about this ECU and how well it works. Information is more than welcome here.

Anyways, I'm looking for a very nice system for a reasonable price (i.e. NO Motec ). I don't want to upgrade the ignition at the moment so I do NOT wan't a system that will require an ignition upgrade for an additional price.

At the moment I'll be running the stock twins nonsequential, but will definitely upgrade in the future. I want an ECU that will last me for the LONG run. I've already changed ECU's a few times and I want something somewhat permanent and that will work with any set-up I have planned. Finally, the car is mainly a street-car with the occassional road coursing planned.

PLEASE provide me with any information you can. Personal experience with any of these systems is HIGHLY appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Rizwan

 

#3 This would be my first choice if it works as promised. There is evidence that older firmware builds do not, but they just released a new version.

#2 Has a good track record and the engineers on the efi forum say it is still one of the most advanced setups out there. Unfortunately they never got around to adding software support for oil metering control. I heard from a former employee that it has the hardware, but when they lost a few staff members they shelved the project.

#1 It has a lot more support for aux functions than the tec3 and probably ties with the Haltech for everything you would want to do and may have an edge if you want to run something really different. It only has 4 ign outputs, so you will have to use a multiplexer to get to 6. This was a common setup on the older Motecs, so it's not that big of a deal. I really like the software. I believe it can overlay afrs on the fuel map grid while datalogging. I used a similar function with the FC-datalogit. It makes it much easier to tune while driving I really hate the Autronic closed door policy re tech support. Someone here had a bad experience with that community. Do a search for 'man ****' and you should find the posts. Also, I've been told that there is really nothing special about the hardware. That doesn't mean it's not a great ECU though.

 

i run the e11v2, and i love it. haltech support has been HIGHLY supportive for me. any stupid little question they answer via email within a couple days at the very longest. relatively easy to get good help over the phone too.

i have no experience with electromotive, so i can't offer a comparison.

when i asked an authorized autronic dealer how much it would cost, it was way more than i wanted to pay, on the order of 5-6K if i remember right. he said that he'd HAVE to install it to warranty it and offer any support, which is why the cost was SO much more than haltech.

in the end, I'm glad I got the e11v2, works great by my best measure. i started off non-sequential twins and now have a gt42r, built for what sounds like the same reasons you're building your car. as far as the ignition. . .running the stock 20B coils is way more difficult than it ought to be due to mazda's engineering, i can't explain it very well, but there is a thread somewhere in the dungeon that explains why they are basically impossible to use without the stock ecu, which is quite unwieldy. i just got six ls1 coils because they have there own ignitors built in and require no amps or caps for moderate power if you're not running AI or too rich. i've used them with great success, plus they can be had for like 60 bucks a hit, so it's really not bad in the scope of things. if you go this route, i'd be happy to give you my basemap. . .i'm at almost 6000 feet though, so it'd probably require some adjustments on the fuel curves.

good luck
ryan

 

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't realize that it was so difficult to wire up the stock 20B coils. In my research I never came across that problem, but I'm guessing that most people decide to upgrade their ignitions at the same time as the ECU so that probably explains it.

Regarding the Autronic, I did hear that Autronic is very careful in choosing their respective dealers, but never heard that part about the warranty. That price is wayyy too high compared to what I had in mind and apparently their ignition setups are very expensive as well.

I'm going to speak with my tuner, but at the moment I'm leaning toward the Tec3r. I've heard good things about the Haltech systems as well, but at the same time I've come across a significant number of people that have run in to problems with this EMS.

More input please..........

 

How come the Microtech LT12S hasnt been mentioned?

 

Have any questions particular to Haltech feel free to drop me an email. And if you'd like a quote on the E11V2 system I can do that too.

 

I've heard lots of good things about this ECU, but the ONLY reason I left it out is because I am not considering it. I had the Microtech LT8s for my single-turbo setup and although I have no complaints I wanted to look in a different direction. My tuner is also partial to a few different ECU's other than Microtech, hence my decision to leave it out of this conversation. I was also not to pleased with the lack of inputs/outputs in the system and the difficulty of having things adjusted by sending it back to Australia.

Feel free to provide your opinions on this EMS though. I am more than willing to hear what others have to say.

Thanks,

Rizwan

 

Its a great ecu at an even better price point than anything else on the market that will run a 20b successfully! No real issue with having to send back to Oz to get anything changed, just make sure you order all the options you require at the time of order & you wont have to send it back! It has all the basic inputs & outputs you could need, without all the bells & whistles that you pay for with other units & never use!

In saying that, it is important to listen to your tuners preferance, as they are the ones who have to work on it!

 

PM'd you

Speaking along those lines, one benefit of Electromotive is having a US manufacturer/dealer base since they are out of Virginia.

 

So, I talked it over with my tuner and I think we both decided that the best option for me would be to go with the Tec3r.

Anyone know where I could go about finding a dealer and how much I should expect to pay for the unit?

Thanks in advance,

Riz

 

$2200 for the unit, plus you have to buy coils (don't know cost but you will have to buy two sets of coil packs - one set of 3 coils for each bank - leading and trailing), also buy a crank trigger wheel ($100+), and then fabricate a wiring harness although they are pre-terminated and plug in to the unit (sort of like a stereo head unit).

Save over half of the cost by going with mine, all the work is already done for you and a map is included, which saves more money

Go to the electromotive website http://www.directignition.com/dealers.html and see what's in your area

Area One Motorsports - Franklin Park, IL- (847) 671-6969 looks like the only one in IL

or just across the border in Milwaukee
Mraz Import Automotive Inc - Brookfield, WI - (262) 781-0074

 

I run the Link ECU. It comes with an ignition module check out linkecu.com. Easy to use

 

Hey Kerry, thanks for the info. Unfortunately, I won't be buying your ECU though. It looks like a very nice unit and I KNOW just from everything you presented me that everything's in order, but the simple fact is that Electromotive no longer supports the system so I'd be screwed if something went wrong. I'm not willing to take that chance so I'm going to purchase the Tec3r. Thanks for everything though.

 

If you use a tec3R keep in mind they don't sell an off the shelf crank sensor bracket for the 20b front cover. Also, as I recently discovered, the 20b front timing wheel hub does not have the cotter pins that lock the wheel in position. Without the pins my wheel moves 8/10ths of 1 tooth on the 60-2 =~2.5 degree in either direction. Obviously this isn’t an issue if the bolts hold it in place, but I’m concerned that with the torque of the motor on one side and the resistance of the belt pulleys on the other it might slip.

So ideally, you'd want to use (1) an FD pulley hub, and (2) an FD front cover on the motor which requires some custom work on the oil pan depending on how **** you are about the seal to the front cover and interference with the oil regulator bolt. Alternately, you can make a custom sensor mount for the 20b cover. I did this for mine -it took some time to get the very precise clearances right, but probably less work than swapping the front cover . . .