Sorry I'll be more clear, I was referring to standard mount pictures Chris was linking to. I was aware of the engine being moved back in the other pics.

~S~

 

I am currently changing my setup from an aftermarket subframe with moved the rack to the stock subframe.

The oil pan will have to be modified by cutting the rear of the pan so it will fit and relocating the drain plug to the bottom.

Custom motor mounts will be made and a fitting on the rack will be moved so the pan will fit.

Instead of cutting the LIM, we are going to modify a stock hood with a cowel to give clearance.

Along with all this work the pwr steering and AC are going back in the car and will be going to an Air to Water IC setup.

One of the people involved had suggested moving the rack forward in order to have the motor sit lower. However, after having an aftermarket subframe in the car for the last several years I am reluctant to do anything with moves the rack from the stock location. Would rather have the engine sit higher and modify the hood.


Would like to hear your opinions and suggestions.

 

here is my 2 cars with 20Bs stock subframes FC and FD with no cutting on the firewall,stock oil pans and stock rack locations....both have v mounts....and large turbos.

 

On the FD how did you get the engine to sit so low? Problem we are having is the hump in the front of the oil pan and clearing the rack. Very nice setup! Looks extremely clean.

 

Since we're talking about stock subframes, I'll keep my photos to myself :-)

 

Really? So you are trying to say that the yellow FD firewall is not modified? Sorry, but it does not take an eagle eye to see that it has been completely caved in, not to mention cut up. Let's throw in that the engine has been moved back and the entire front of the car has been chopped up for a partial tube frame as well...

Yeah, sure thing, that v-mount fit right in there with the engine in the stock location....

Gee, it is exactly what I said would need to be done "You would need to massage the firewall and move everything back"

Imagine that.....

 

I agree with Chris you can't count the front end of the yellow FD, you cut everything out. I could tell people you could run 315's up front with room to spare as on my car, it would be disingenuous though as I had to seriously modify just about everything to do it. I will disagree though that you "have to" move everything back if you run a V-mount in the stock location. It will depend on core size, core position, and few other things. That said I wouldn't do it again if I could avoid it.

~S~

 

So has anyone actually mounted the 20B on the stock subframe, while keeping the rack in the stock location and didnt cut the firewall or shorten the PPF or driveshaft?

This is what we are attempting to do, so far the main issue is the height of the engine in order to clear the rack.

 

You have to cut the LIM or the hood to do it. That's how the defined kit works (cutting the LIM).

 

Dont you always have to cut the driveshaft?

 

That's what Defined Autoworks does.

 

Yeah, have looked at the defined kit and decidied to do it ourselves. Looks like they do nice work. In the process of modifying the oil pan and fabricating the mounts.

One of the guys is suggesting we move the rack forward to allow the engine to sit lower.

The arguement is: The FD rack sits slighlty back and the tie rods angle forward, just most the rack forward to the point where its at the same angle but with the tie rods angling back. Since the angle is the same the steering will not be impacted. (Someone else's statement not mine)

It seems like it would work, however Im not convinced and dont have enough experience with such things to make an educated decision. Personally, I think the car handled great with the rack in the stock position and am hesitant to play with it again. Its the whole reason why Im going back to the stock subframe.

 

Anymore thoughts on moving the rack?
This is what I was suggesting in an earlier post but I was also suggesting the possibility of modifying the arms on the front hubs to lengthen them so that you kept the same effective rack geometry but just ended up with lighter steering. Could possibly dump the PS then? But then I haven't looked close enough to see how much room there is inside the wheel to do this mod?

I think changing the angle of the steering arms from Forward to Aft will still effect the geometry as the wheel is turned. but how much effect this will have on the handling is hard to say without trying it or plotting it out to see the effect it has on wheel angle for both wheels.

Cheers
Lee