Hi,

Well, I've decided it's time to stop messin' around and finish my 20B project. I was contemplating a LONG time whether to go N/A 20B or Turbo 20B and I've made my decision. I plan on having an aggressively street-ported motor w/single turbo. Hoping to run 4xx rwhp low-boost, and up...


I'm working with a stock 20B low-mileage, late-model D-code engine. I'm hoping for suggestions on qualified engine builders. They need to be highly reputable, *reasonably* priced ( I know...but atleast somewhat reasonable), offer some sort of warranty/guarantee, and finally have a *decent* turn-around time.
Any suggestions?!?...


I'm also in need of a lil' help selecting a turbo to go with. People have been suggestin' a GT42R, but I'm unsure if that's overkill for my application. I'm looking to put down approx. 450 rwhp on low-boost and around 6xx or so on hi-boost (10-15 psi). Suggestions?!?...



I'm hoping for a lil' help sorting out the details. If you could help out, it would be very much appreciated!


Thanks in advance,
Rizwan

 

Riz, don't be a *****! Go GT55R!


A-spec can do a 20b for you. As far as I know they are the only local shop to us that can. They always have 20Bs being built and have also had a few 20B cars go through there shop recently. I dunno if CJ does engine builds. Then there are other high end reputable but not so cheap shops that are not so local, Mandeville, CLR Motorsports, gotham, pettit, etc etc...

GT42R seems to be the turbo of choice for the 20B. From what I've read it seems like it will do what you need it to do. You may be able to get what you want with a smaller turbo like a 40R and get a little better response but I dunno. The real turbo experts should answer that for you.

 

Send your car to Carlos (not Alex) Lopez in Miami at CLR Motorsports or Crispeed if he has the time. Both have done a ton of 3 and 4 rotor conversions. Closer to you is Dave at KDR in PA. For me distance wouldn't matter, just who can get the job done the best. Take it from me, the 4-year conversion guy

I would definitely make sure your engine is balanced. I would also recommend the Guru stud kit but make sure the person who does the work knows what they are doing or they'll screw a lot up. Both Carlos and Crispeed use the same shop for this I believe. Carlos does his own balancing.

A GT42R would be a great choice for you I think with the power goals you are after. At 10 PSI or so you'll make about 475 WHP and the 600+ goal is obtainable at 18 or so PSI. Anything smaller on a 3 rotor will probably not flow enough for your goals.

PM me if you'd like more info.

 

Carlos from CLR Motorsports has been around for so long and has such a great 20b package that it would be crazy not to consider him for a 20B.

Just my .02 worth, don't spend it all in one place.

BigAl...

 

No doubt CLR probably has the most experience, but if you are being thorough, you owe it to yourself to check out Defined Autoworks near Columbus, OH. Logan and Peter are young, but super dedicated, energetic, knowledgeable, and have one of the most innovative ways of placing the 20B in an FD. Soon this forum will have pics and vids of the most recent 20B that drove off that shop last night. Although it needs a break in period, and final tune, this car will open some eyes. I would highly recommend you check them out.

 

Hi Rizwan,
As you know- we have been building 20B's for many yrs. - As you may recall from our previous discussions my own personal 20B FD (with full street trim, A/C, P/S, etc.) made an honest 535RWHP (on a "Mustang" load dyno) at 10 psi with a "small by some standards" Greddy T-78 turbo. This car was built for street use only, (I didn't want to use a huge turbo that doesn't spool as fast)

The boost came on very quickly! When we raised to 14 psi the boost did not fall off -even at 7000 rpms. This car was destroyed 3 yrs ago and the replacement we're building will have a T-88.

We are currently completing a 20 B front tubechassis trackcar with a GT42r .
Weight is currently 2250lbs



I am also contracted to build another 20B engine for aircraft use with 3 of the RB aluminum side plates for weight savings- and plan to use a small GT35r seres turbo for "altitude compensation"

Contact me with any questions,
Bryan

 

Glen from AZRR .

As far as turbo why need one? You can squeeze 400 whp out of a properly built NA setup and have reliability behind it. I know a turbo 20b can be reliable as well but we all know NA cars last longer.

Riz call me back.

 

+1

 

Carlos Lopez is amazing, and i dont think anyone on this forum would be dumb enough doubt that, but if we are talking about getting stuff done fast, he is one of the worst. He is simply too busy with other stuff. I know of multiple sets of rotors that were sent to him for scalloping and came back anywhere from 3 months to 1 year later. He's just SUPER busy, all the time, and strict deadlines for small jobs (which yours would probably be for a guy like him) don't seem to be his forte.

Defined Autoworks is an obvious choice in the three rotor area, the last 20b FD they did came out real nice, but they are a bit far away.

 

It's my opinion that Carlos/CLR & Mandeville are on a whole other playing field. Specifically Mandeville. I've got photos of really top notch parts & cars in the shop (which I've been asked to keep to myself). Carlos strikes me as a hacker if you will. Always shooting for more. The few conversations we've had on ignition theory alone gave me confidence in him and hell... half the `new ideas` he said he was doing 15 years ago - I have no reason to doubt him. Besides, he's the guy you'll see at the tracks.

in house engine-dyno would be something that I'd look into myself. Having the ign & fuel map specific to your engine would be nice in the returning package. Minor adjustment needed but hell, they break in the engine, map,etc.. can't beat that.

..just my opinion(s);

 

Hands down Carlos......But he WILL take a long time to finish and you WILL p a y for it. Or me@Gorilla RE if you would like to come a little less south to get great top notch innovative quality.

-J

 

http://www.rx7store.net/category_s/429.htm you might want to check out our 20b work. We are very close to you

 

....Yeah I've seen it.........

 

Ive got a completely built 20b in the classifieds section if you are interested in it. fully built with new alum 3rd gen rotor housings and race ported by Ramone at Headway Performance.

This motor has never been started, stored in my office at work!

 

Many shops can build a 20B, but you want it done right. To have it done right you better have deep pockets. Our 20B conversion is $20-$25k depending on parts used, but I can guarantee its going to hold up and make the power as promised.

 

no offense or anything to the other builders but my experience leans on Rotorsports racing. No past experience with anyone else but when you are happy with one why change ?

 

Some ballpark pricing for various services from some of the builders would be awesome to have out for everyone to see. . .

Dowel pinning,
studding,
porting,
oil passage mods,
water jacket mods,
dry sumping,
lightening of rotating assembly,
balancing of rotating assembly,
milling for 3mm,
generic rebuild with clearancing etc,
any specialty services,
et cetera

. . . just some approximates for people to start baselining a build would probably put an end to a lot of PMs from dreamers and potentially serious clientele alike.

 

Just because you make the power figure promised and the motor stays together DOES NOT make it "done right"......

-J

 

really? care to explain?

 

My explanation is: I Don't need to bad mouth your work on this forum but I've seen 20Bs that ya'll have done and for $25K I was just a little surprised at quite a few things I saw........

-J

 

You have? Which one was this? Since your an expert on 20B's what was exactly wrong with the one you saw?

 

Jason I don't recall saying I was an expert on anything........Like I said there is quite a few things but my biggest issue with your 20B builds is engine placement. You almost need a cowl hood it sits so high not to mention the forward positioning. But if your customers like how you do things than more power to ya $$$$$......

-J

 

The way the engine sits it works with the stock hood and the tranny lines up. No interior hacking to get the shifter in. Not sure why you think its sits so high. We dont make the subframe for the swap, so the customer has the option of using anyone they want. The one you probably saw was using the RX7 Specialties frame that the customer brought to us. We are more concerned about the rebuild and the parts used which can vary greatly. For me Im happy if the customer is pleased and consider that a succesful job.

 

Okay Jason........

-J

 

Quit the pissing match, christ. Just because something doesnt look right to another shop owner doesnt mean that its entirely wrong. Not everyone is the same and everyone works on a particular budget. Get back on topic please and have a mod clean up this thread cause the past 10 post are completely irrelevant.