Modifications to Build Include:

HP Goal: Anywhere between 400-500

-Engine Code B539
-Defined Autoworks Subframe Kit
-Stock FD Transmission
-Exedy Twin Disc Clutch
-Stock ports
-Haltech PS2000 ECU
-AEM Smartcoils
-Koyo N Flow Radiator
-KG Parts Secondary Rail and Bosch 1600cc injectors
-Stock Primary Rail (Modified To accept 8an fitting)
-CJ Motorsports Twin walbro fuel pump assembly
-Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Aeromotive Fuel Filter
-Earls 25 Row dual Oil coolers
-Banzai Racing Oil-pan and Diff Brace
-FD Throttle Body
-Greddy elbow
-Garrett GT4094R with a 1.06 A/R
-TIAL V60 watstegate
-Tial Q BOV
-Coolingmist Water injection Kit

PROBLEMS / PARANOIA:

I have done alot of research and there were mixed views on the issue of studding the motor. My motor being a Earlier series (B539) some said I should definitely get it studded, others say for my HP goals I should not stud it. I would definitely like to have the motor studded for peace of mind however finding somone to do it properly where I live is proving to be difficult and shipping cost is high. Any thoughts and suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all the guys who answered my questions and gave advice thus far ; David hayes, t-von, patman, banzai, zero-r etc

 

Some more parts arrived, waiting on Defined to finish up the kit, he said within 2 weeks.

 

I can't wait to see the response of this turbo setup. Your Gt4094R is exactly what I would have bought for my 20b if I turbo charge it. Are you rebuilding the motor yourself?

 

I like your plan, sounds like a reasonable yet killer build. Good balance of cost and power for an early code motor, cheers

I wish there was more info on the 20B as well, I wonder if doing a stud kit that doesn't require machining would be worth it at that power level- would certainly love to know myself.

 

A local rotary guy would be doing the rebuild.

There are no stock diameter stud kits available for the 20b, only the over sized 12.7mm which would require the block to be machined. From what I have gathered from my research for my goals studding is not entirely necessary but we would have to wait and see how it goes.

 

There are these, but they could be chinese junk, I have no idea.

theracingstore.com - 100% TITANIUM STUDS 20B STREET

Edit, probably same kit, more pictures, $50 less: http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...-Street-20B-TI

 

I forgot about those, i looked into them, there was one guy on here that used them and i asked if he would recommend them to anyone, he stated "no", forgot the reason he gave but I would not trust the stability of my engine to that item.

 

Renae at Rotaryworks makes nice stuff and he has built a few 20b track cars with no issues. Id trust studs. Done look any different from what guru offers.

 

Stud kits - Skernracing.com

 

Nice to see a fellow rotary guy from my home country of Trinidad on the forum. Its a sweet build and I hope you do a full build thread to detail it. Always loved rotary engines but had to wait until I moved to Canada to purchase my first RX7 (my FB aka Sexy Rexy lol) She's a work in progress but so far, she puts down 192 whp via a 4 port half bridged NA 13b (S4 housings and 12a irons).

 

Is yours the one that Steve just finished up? I remember him saying that he had a customer that was from Trinidad and had some super low mileage FB come through going bridge. Sorry to derail the thread, just seemed like a shocking coincidence.

 

That might be a really good comprimise for lower power setups, also since they go all the way through you would only have to drill, not tap. And only 4, but that's probably a huge improvement.

 

lambof.God you're absolutely correct. My FB is the one that Steve Wallace just finished up. He did a fantastic job on the build and stayed within budget and time frame also! Since he built the engine I've picked up and installed a few parts from various forum members (like TargaX and Misterstyx) such as full 13b streetport exhaust, MSD 6 ignition, Racing Beat springs, lightened flywheel, new stage 2 clutch etc, strut bars etc. Rexy is a very spirited and lively girl! LOL

 

I decided to stick with the OEM engine bolts and see how they hold up. Still waiting on the parts from defined autoworks to mount the engine. With regards to the exhaust sleeves on the 20b, is it absolutely necessary to swap them for 13B ones at my perceived power level?

 

sighs, wondering if I wpold be able to mount the engine before the year finishes, anyone ever used the subframe from apsec tuning?

 

Happy new year to all, Still no parts from defined autowork, 8 months and counting....

 

what the foxx...