Here is my 12 A tear down. Would appreciate any advice. I want to port it then put it back together. Any advice on getting all the parts ready to rebuild would be great.
Thanks
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Some more pics... All surfaces seem smooth and no gouges present.
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at this stage of the process, what you want to do is clean, clean and then clean some more. after cleaning, you'll then want to spec everything. notebooks are cheap, so get one. record the measurements, make sketches and notes.

next you should make the list of what you want to replace, then look at your budget and make the list of what you NEED to replace. your rotor housings look great in the photos. it may still be a good idea to get new, softer/gentler apex seals to use with them whether the ones you took out are reusable or not - just something to consider.

 

Atkins seals, being a softer material, are actually more abrasive than the hard OEM ones. Not sure if you knew that. I used to not be aware of this. It's an easy mistake to me.

But I do recommend Atkins seals for this engine because they seal really well on used housings and can give housings with missing chrome a new lease on life.

You might need another rotor or factory matches set due to your rust issue. I'd also look for a high volume oil pump to replace the dinky stock one you have. New oil pump chain too. Something tells me your thrust assembly is worn too, as all engines with dinky oil pumps had at least some wear there.

 

no. i was not aware of that. is there a $2-layman's explanation for it? is it friction? sort of like why softer tires grip better?

 

Looks like the front rotor bearing has quite a bit of copper showing, also there is a spot where I can feel some type of deformed surface. I assume the rotor bearings can be replaced? Is this something that can be done at home or does a shop have to do it?

 

Please help with these parts... They kind of fell off as I was disassembling the front part of the engine...
My guess- eccentric shaft bearing?
Some type of key way- this one fell as I pulled the e-shaft off but I can't see a groove where it goes?

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photos:
1. thrust washer/spacer (letter-coded for different sizes)

2. that's the key for the flywheel


the rotor bearings can be done at home if you have a press and the tool to press them in and out, otherwise a shop has to do it.

 

Thanks, found the hole for the key on the e-shaft! The thrust washer/spacer would be what determines end play on the e-shaft then right?

I have a press and may be able to do the bearings.

You guys think I should re-use apex seals? They look to be OK. I need to measure them but just wondering what the general thought is... I would need to buy the Atkins Master Kit and that's like $1100. I need to replace my side seals as they were pretty hard to get out and broke a few.
Thanks

 

i had a feeling this was one of those things that i subconsciously named for myself (i have a tendency to do that at times), so i went on the Mazdatrix site and they're actually called "end spacers" - and yes, that's how you adjust the endplay.

as for the apex seals, general thoughts and opinions are irrelevant until you measure them and inspect them for hairlines and chipping. present the data and then opinions can come into the equation.

 

that's the end play spacer they are letter coded and that other picture is your oil pump Keyway

 

Looks like Haynes says apex seals should be between 7mm and 8.5mm... I'm measuring 7.7-8mm on mine.

 

Can you tell me which oil pump to upgrade to? ALso, how would I know if I have the small one or whether someone already upgraded it?
Thanks

 

Mine measured the same, but the distortion was 3x the limit. Replacements on the way.

 

Got it... Doesn't look like there is much way around a $1000 rebuild kit! Is Atkins the cheapest?

 

the last I looked atkins was the cheapest,I have used them a couple times before and never had a problem with them

 

the SE oil pump is a bolt-on upgrade - more volume. you'd have to pull it apart and measure the width of the rotor assembly.

 

Was wondering how much of a gouge is acceptable on an iron? I just noticed one in the front iron.... OK, so this is a crap picture but the gouge runs the distance my fingers are pointing to.

 

You're talking about step wear. If it's not too deep, it's perfectly fine to use it. If it is kinda deep, just remember it came out of a running engine so it's ok to use it. If it's really deep, get another iron.

Whatever you do, don't resurface it because it costs a lot and you lose the all important nitrided surface. Without this surface, the seals, all of them on that side, will wear at an accelerated rate and your engine will smoke on startup every time, and get worse over time, not better. Then when you tear the engine back down, nothing will be reususable.

 

OK, Thanks...

 

Here is my comparison shopping list between Atkins and Mazadtrix.
Maybe something useful.

I made all the measurements. Asked for advise and opinions. Sorted out what I thought I needed and compiled a shopping list.
Most of the Atkins kits had more items than I wanted, and I already had some of the parts from one kit. (The * items are included in the Atkins kit indicated.)

 

You dont have to spend $1000. Like I said in the other thread I spend $450 shipped from Atkins for everything youll need for rebuild.

 

also beware that Atkins shipping charges can be crazy. I order through their ebay store where most items are free shipping

 

Well, I'm just looking at replacing the rotor bearings as one is looking pretty coppery with a deformation, also, I ended up breaking a couple of side seals so was thinking about replacing as well... So that will add about $300-400...

 

The bearings have a puzzle lock with copper showing. Is that what you're seeing?