Yes! Another Mikuni help thread!
#1
Yes! Another Mikuni help thread!
Someone just make a mikuni stickie lol, anyway, i rebuilt my mikuni 44 today, i was under the assumption the accel pump diaphragm was bad, so i bought a rebuild kit and diaphragm. i removed the old diaphragm and it didnt seem to be bad. so now im scared that wasnt the problem and i figured id ask some of you carbed rotary guys. i wont know till in the morning when i bolt it back on and try to start her. the engine would bog and try to die, but it would pick up after 2-3 seconds and then rev all the way to redline without any cutout until you let off again. this to me sounds like 100% accel pump problems, but as i said the diaphragm was fine ( looked so anyway) so anybody ever had this problem, if so what was it? that and i just wanted to use this as an opertunity to brag that my car will be drivable tomarrow!!! $800 well spent though no title, so ill have to wait for any serious driving
#2
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Did you order the tuning manual with the kit? The 44's tend to bog a bit transitioning from the the pilot to main circuit, you can't just mash the pedal, ease into it. The shaft for the ap has 3 holes in it to adjust the amount of squirt. I'm still playing with mine.
#3
Originally Posted by trochoid
Did you order the tuning manual with the kit? The 44's tend to bog a bit transitioning from the the pilot to main circuit, you can't just mash the pedal, ease into it. The shaft for the ap has 3 holes in it to adjust the amount of squirt. I'm still playing with mine.
#6
Originally Posted by trochoid
Wolf Creek Racing, it's in the other Mikuni thread.
What are you running for a pump and fpr?
What are you running for a pump and fpr?
Last edited by FCKing1995; 04-15-06 at 01:02 AM.
#7
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Until you know you have a stable and measureable fuel, your pissing into the wind.
The Mikuni requires an aftermarket fuel pump that is capable of putting out a minumum of 5 psi through full throttle and then it needs to be brought down with an fpr.
You can adjust the ap, air jets, main jets, pilot and starter jets, and never get it to run correctly unless the fuel is there.
The Mikuni requires an aftermarket fuel pump that is capable of putting out a minumum of 5 psi through full throttle and then it needs to be brought down with an fpr.
You can adjust the ap, air jets, main jets, pilot and starter jets, and never get it to run correctly unless the fuel is there.
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#8
thanks for the input, heres what i found today, which is the first day oive really had to go look closely into whats on the car. the guy who installed the mikuni apparntly didnt install a fpr, so could too much fuel be a problem? or a cause of my problem? a sputter and cutout at low rpms and when first applying the gas pedal? the carb rebuild and acc pump diaphragm didnt help at all. any input?
#9
Just took my first drive in her.... and wow! im hooked for sure now. while driving i noticed that at wot and close to wot i heard what sounded like detonation. so do you think my problem could be part fuel part timing? if so what should i do to the timing to fix detonation? thanks
#13
Originally Posted by trochoid
NA's rarely detonate, but they can if you don't have the fuel or timing correct.
Get an fpr and fpg one the car before you f....k it up.
Get an fpr and fpg one the car before you f....k it up.
#15
suggestions on fuel pumps an regulators w/ gauge preferably? id also like the pump to be large enough to keep around when i do my t2 swap and build it. anybody run a walbro 255 external? im thinking that might be my route. as for regulators im lost, whats a good brand with a gauge
#16
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
Hoses off of the carb mean vacuum leaks, which means it runs even leaner.
Carter low psi pump, Holley 1-4 psi fpr and a cheap guage. You will need a different pump for the TII swap.
If you cracked or broke an apex seal, you would know. The 12A's can run over 200k with proper maintenance and 3k oil change intervals.
Carter low psi pump, Holley 1-4 psi fpr and a cheap guage. You will need a different pump for the TII swap.
If you cracked or broke an apex seal, you would know. The 12A's can run over 200k with proper maintenance and 3k oil change intervals.
#18
ok im a newb to the rotary scene and all of that, but i feel like the worlds biggest douche right now. i ussualy check the simple things first, but this time that wasnt so. it clicked in my head today to try toying around with the adjustment screws and the ignition timing today to see if it would solve any problems... well now the car runs much better, still a bit hesitant and laggy on anything under about 25% throttle, but at higher throttle levels it revs smooth and runs well. still need to tinker some more and get it "dialed in" better, but wow, i feel like a dumbass. i still need the fpr anyway though, the pump might be ok.
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