nick1

for some reason, after putting in my new (used) motor, and removing all the emissions on my 85 gsl, the fuel pump no longer works. something to do with the wiring. if i run a wire from the battery it runs, so what i've decided to do is wire it through a switch, and to ignition power (so it turns off regardless of the switch position when i turn the key off)

at first i was thinking of using an aftermarket switch, but they got the idea to use an existing switch. i no longer have cruise control, and was thinking of using that button that lights up for the cruise (its a push in for on, and push again for off), for the fuel pump. it would keep me from installing an ugly aftermarket switch, and plus will be a good anti theft device.

has anyone else done anything like this? i also considered using my rear wiper switch since i want to get rid of the wiper hatch and go wiperless, but i like the cruise switch better. is there any reason this wouldn't work? would it be as simple as finding power when the switch is on, and running a straight wire to the fuel pump pwr, and then just grounding to chasis or something like that?

cool idea? i think so

nick1

forgot to ask...does the fuel pump normally run all the time when the engine is running? or does it ever shut down if there is enough pressure? obviously i would just have to be careful not to leave the car not running with the ignition on, but that shouldn't be a problem. also would that switch be powerful enough to supply power to the fuel pump? it looks like the factory wires to the pump are no bigger than a speaker wire, so would speaker wire do it? thanks

stilettoman

iTrader: (1)

The fuel pump should run continuously when the engine is running. I recall there is some condition for which it does not run when the ignition is on, but I cannot remember if it is the same for all 1st gen cars - this would be described in a factory shop manual.

There is a return line, slightly smaller than the supply line, which returns fuel to the tank. This ensures a constant flow of fuel, and prevents vapor lock in hot weather - any bubbles would flow back to the tank. There is a Tee fitting at the carb, with an orifice that regulates the return flow. The size of that orifice determines the pressure at the carb.

I used a very tiny aircraft quality toggle switch, hidden under the edge of the center console, on the right side just aft of the shifter. You should be able to slide your finger under the edge of the console where it fits to the top of the floor tunnel. If it is too tight, just put a couple of washers under the console where it bolts down. This is easy to reach, completely hidden and does make a good "poor man's security system". I cut the wire under the storage compartment aft of the driver's seat and spliced in the switch there. I have now done this on three different 1st gen cars I have owned, never had a problem with it.

I recommend you find the problem with the pump wiring and fix that first.

nick1

i went ahead and wired it up through my cruise control on/off switch. i think its perfect here, since that switch is right beside the ignition, so in one swift movement, i can slip in the key, turn it to ignition, and if the switch is off, hit the switch...since its only on when ignition is on, if i forget to hit the cruise switch when i turn off the car, the fuel pump will still turn off

i love it, and now i consider myself a genious for figuring it out. lol...plus having the option to hit the switch when and if the car floods it is way easier than pulling the fuse for the fuel pump.

i just hope there's enough power in that switch to run the fuel pump long term. for a wire, i used regular speaker wire, except using both pos. and neg. together to double up on the size. hopefully that will be satisfactory. i assume the cruise switch is run through the fuse box so if there is a short, hopefully there won't be a fire

please if anyone thinks this isn't safe let me know

Jose Feliciano

put a relay on that switch so you dont burn the switch out also make sure you use a fuse maybe 15amp or 20 amp fuse. that switch Ideal is good but if you run the car long that switch might get hot and you dont want to be stuck on the side of the road.

inuissus_cendi

I think I'm going to do something similar when I install my new Carter pump. I like the idea of having a cheap and effective security system. What thief would try the cruise control button? good idea

TiViD

Any theif that reads this and now since i know youre secret I am going to look for a RX-7 to steal in Canada. Jokes on you sucka!

nick1

why, my car would be no easier to start than any other fb in canada....you still need the key to provide ignition power for the switch to operate

LokiRx7.1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it kinda sucks for awhile, you have no idea how many times I have driven my car about a block and it starts to hunt, or if I am driving hard enough it outright dies. I used to get pissed but now its like, oh yeah, I need to turn the fuel on! Either that or it dies while warming up, luckily it is wired into the stereo so if I cant hear music then I know I havent turned the pump on.

It is really hard to get used to, I always considered doing it but even though I have a car with it now, I just dont pay attention as much as I thought I would. I think the ultimate anti-theft would be a battery cut-off. With a fuel cut-off they can still drive your car a little ways, because of the fuel in your float and residual pressure in the lines.

Yeah leave the pump on at all times during engine operation, the fuel pump runs all the time to maintain a set pressure. And although I have forgotten to turn it on, not once have I forgotten to turn it off. Since its the stereo is wired into the switch I can turn the car off and take the key out and still have the stereo on. Nice little feature, although it may bother some people.

I personally would just use a generic switch and stick it in some hard to find/see area.

Chris