like the title says if im using 10w30 in 85-100 degree weather would it make my engine run hotter then usual?

it seems my heat guage makes it to about 3/4 the way up on the gauge when driving normally. should i chane to to lke 20w50?

thanks

 

the weather and not the oil ????

 

thicker oil can keep the oil temps down, but you shouldn't notice such a dramatic increase especially in the coolant temps. I switched to 20-50 and noticed quite a drop with my oil temps, but the coolant temps weren't notably different. Sounds like you have some other problems that need attention, how old is your T-stat, radiator etc?

 

every thing is original....i flushed the coolant and was gonan replace the t-stat but checker didnt have the right one and the guy said mine looked fine....although i should test it.....maby one of the rows in my radiator is blocked????.....because after i flushed out my radiator it only took about a gallon of coolant but i just figired there was still water in the bottom of someting.....maby time for a new radiator? can u unplug a radiator?

 

Order a new T-stat from mazdatrix, and there is a plug on the motor that you need to remove when you flush out your coolant.

 

First of all you I need to know if this temp reading is at low speeds, idle or highway speeds?

 

10w30 will just burn up, out of your exhaust

20 w50 seals in the rotary

 

at pretty much any speed it gets hot quick...just slowly cruzin around it gets up to 3/4 in no time.....maby 5-10 min....im almost scared to drive it

 

Wait... what? I run 10w30 in mine.

 

i use 20w 50 with Lucas oil stabilzer...ALWAYS

 

After you get the engine up to operating temp, shut the engine off. Then spin the fan, their should be a fair amount of resistance when it turns. If it freewheels the fan clutch is no good.

Make sure that the fan belt is tight also.

This is of course based on that your gauge is oeprating correctly. I would take the connector off and clean it with brake clean or electrical cleaner and make sure the connection is tight at the sensor.

Also make sure that the bottom radiator hose is not collapsing when the T-stat opens.

 

What the heck are you talking about, lol.

10w-30 is a energy efficent engine oil. The differnence between it and the 20w-50 is it's resistance or viscosity at higher ambient temperatures.

 

will do....thanks doc....im in charleston south carolina riggh now but will be back friday and will check then.....also sometimes on start up my fan is locked up and then it realeases....is this right?

 

10W30 will not make an engine run hot.

Maybe you have a tempurature sensor unit problem. Check the resistance of the switch and compare to spec.

 

a friend on mine had a fan that wa stuck on high ALWAYS. haha that thing would move! youd open the hood and stuff would go flying every where.

if you need a new fan pm me. i have a spare or two

 

Ive been running 10W30 in my S5 engine for 6 years now.It still fires right up and makes the same power it did when I installed in 50K miles ago.I run Idemitsu Sythetic Rotary oil mind you,but weight-wise 10W30 is great.

I stopped running 20W50 back when I went EFI turbo.I ran 20W50 in all my previous N/A engines and saw no issues or changes when I went to 10W30,except for how long it took for my oil pressure to come up,and how long it took to pour the oil into the engine! If your oil seals are tired,thicker oil can help,but unless your running sustained,high RPM,high temp engine conditions(racing) or live in Death Valley 10W30, works well.
Only run as thick an oil as is necessary for your conditions.

 

I run 15w 40 in my car which is what my engine builder recommonded. I am running pennzoil suv 15w40 and have been very happy.

 

That is normal from the fan sitting. As long as it does not stay engaged all the time or does not engage once engine temp is reached.

 

i just realised somethig....remeber that guy talking about how his headlights made his car over heat...well made the gauge read high...i think that might be part of my problem....i think it i crank my subs way up my heat gauge will rise...bad ground?

 

That was cause by bad grounds, yes.
That's why I made the statement about the gauge reading correctly.
Most radiator shops have a infra red hand held scanner for temp and could probably verify if you are actually running that warm.

 

I use 10w30 in the winter and 20w50 in the summer. Runs great. When I change my oil too, I put in one quart of lucas oil stabilizer.

 

I live in Michigan and don't drive in the winter. The coldest my car is likely to see is 40 deg F and the hottest is about 95 deg F (on rare occasions). Engine is a turbo 13B-RE Cosmo. What viscosity/type of oil should I run for break-in and what viscosity/type should I run afterwards?