Will not stay running!!! Frustration!!
Originally Posted by thunderpup
The lines to the exhaust need to be connected. Start the car with the choke on, hood open, and walk to the passenger side of the car. You should be able to hear the vacuum leak. The leak will be most likely from an aluminum tube, lower than the carb, towards the rear of the engine on the passengers side. Right around the rear of the exhaust manifold. There may be a rubber hose connected to it, which runs to another aluminum tube, which in turn runs to the exhaust.
Good luck,
Jon
Good luck,
Jon
I had a similar problem about a month ago and it turned out to be a bad trailing ignitor. The car would start, run for about 15 seconds and then die. Took me a week and about $200 to figure it out...
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
If you haven't removed the rat's nest now would be the time. If you have a header and no cat, then the rat's nest does absolutely nothing. The air pump (big pump that's run off the main drive) can be removed, as can the "Air Control Valve" which is mounted to the side of your intake manifold.
All of this stuff is emissions-related, and once you remove the stock exhaust system, it all stops serving a purpose and can be removed.
Jon
All of this stuff is emissions-related, and once you remove the stock exhaust system, it all stops serving a purpose and can be removed.
Jon
Originally Posted by FormulaOneFan
Here is the stupid question- Why do I need block off plates when we are talking about hoses? I have not removed the rats nest.Heres the other dumb one- Since I have a header do I have to remove the avc valve?
The blocking plates are for the missing ACV and for the little metal pipe that runs from the side of the intake mani down to the catalytic converter. The rubber hose for that second one is only maybe 6 inches long or so, the rest on either side of it is metal tubing. There's a bracket on the carb that the metal hose connects to, when you get a header you MUST block this off, or you'll get a huge vac leak. That's why RB sells that plate.
And since you have nowhere for that air to go now, I believe that pretty much makes the ACV useless, so you can remove it and put the second blockoff plate from RB there. Which means you can also pull off the air pump and gain a hp or two.
Originally Posted by trochoid
Let's make this simpler for you. Read up on the rats nest removal in the FAQs and plug everything the has no place to go.
yes, block those off!! take a look this thread https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/ignition-problem-wont-idle-577844/ so if you block those off, your car should run, and stay running. thats the same place my leak was. as you can see, the previous owner superglued a pennie over the hole.
here you go, i ran out and took some more pics of my car with the no rats nest. you can see where the one pipe connects with two bolts. mine doesnt have that pipe, and the previous owner glued penny over it. so your lucky, you can just plug the pipe. you can also see where i have a hose with a bolt in it, lower down, make sure that is completely sealed, i used gasket sealer on the bolt, then threaded it into the hose. i also took another picture of where the bare nipple on your is, i think you should block that as well. and then there is a picture of my car minus the rats nest, its not the proper way to do it, but the car runs.
there kinda blurry, but i think you can see the idea.hope this helps.
there kinda blurry, but i think you can see the idea.hope this helps.
Originally Posted by perfect_circle
anything to help. does she run yet?
One thing I did not do, is drain the gas tank and blow out the main fuel line . This could be the big issue. But I did a volume test on the pump and the line is pushing out the right amount of fuel. I think the accelarator pump is screwed up inside?! I am freaking out!! What if I just pull off the rats nest and take my carb from my other 85? I know that car doesn't have a fuel delivery problem!
I suggested doing the rats nest removal because it gets rid of many potential vacuum leak sources, simplifies everything. There is a bit more 'stuff' that can be removed from the carb that isn't even shown in the write up. The less 'stuff' there is to f...ck with, the easier the trouble shooting is.
My understanding is that there is a little cone-shaped mesh filter on the inlet of the fuel pump. If you have debris (such as rust) in the fuel tank, this mesh filter will clog and kill off fuel flow. Given that the car has been sitting for a while, this could be the root cause. I think the SE that I just purchased has the same issue.
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Froim the pics I can see:
The shutter valve has already been removed, good.
The Air Control Valve (ACV) is a source of a huge vacuum leak. Remove it, block it off, remove the air pump that goes to it. (part of the rat's nest tutorial, read it).
The Anti Afterburn Valve (mushroom shapeed thing on the passenger side of the carb) can be removed. It just goes to the ACV.
More pics, zoom out a bit and I'll circle stuff with paint that you can remove.
Get overall pics of the carb from the passenger side, pics of the manifold below the carb (pass side) and pics from the top. And if you can snap one pic of each side of the carb front and back, that'll help too.
Jon
The shutter valve has already been removed, good.
The Air Control Valve (ACV) is a source of a huge vacuum leak. Remove it, block it off, remove the air pump that goes to it. (part of the rat's nest tutorial, read it).
The Anti Afterburn Valve (mushroom shapeed thing on the passenger side of the carb) can be removed. It just goes to the ACV.
More pics, zoom out a bit and I'll circle stuff with paint that you can remove.
Get overall pics of the carb from the passenger side, pics of the manifold below the carb (pass side) and pics from the top. And if you can snap one pic of each side of the carb front and back, that'll help too.
Jon
Originally Posted by vipernicus42
Froim the pics I can see:
The shutter valve has already been removed, good.
The Air Control Valve (ACV) is a source of a huge vacuum leak. Remove it, block it off, remove the air pump that goes to it. (part of the rat's nest tutorial, read it).
The Anti Afterburn Valve (mushroom shapeed thing on the passenger side of the carb) can be removed. It just goes to the ACV.
More pics, zoom out a bit and I'll circle stuff with paint that you can remove.
Get overall pics of the carb from the passenger side, pics of the manifold below the carb (pass side) and pics from the top. And if you can snap one pic of each side of the carb front and back, that'll help too.
Jon
The shutter valve has already been removed, good.
The Air Control Valve (ACV) is a source of a huge vacuum leak. Remove it, block it off, remove the air pump that goes to it. (part of the rat's nest tutorial, read it).
The Anti Afterburn Valve (mushroom shapeed thing on the passenger side of the carb) can be removed. It just goes to the ACV.
More pics, zoom out a bit and I'll circle stuff with paint that you can remove.
Get overall pics of the carb from the passenger side, pics of the manifold below the carb (pass side) and pics from the top. And if you can snap one pic of each side of the carb front and back, that'll help too.
Jon
Originally Posted by pjr
My understanding is that there is a little cone-shaped mesh filter on the inlet of the fuel pump. If you have debris (such as rust) in the fuel tank, this mesh filter will clog and kill off fuel flow. Given that the car has been sitting for a while, this could be the root cause. I think the SE that I just purchased has the same issue.
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