Can someone with a widebody tell me how wide is the rear fenders compared to stock? Is it only like 2-3" wider? Just wondering how wide flares I should i get. Also what width wheels are you running? Thanks

 

Depends which widebody Gonz. Are you talking about the Mariah Mode One? GTO? CP? Pacific Avatar? NOPI? Etc..

 

Any of them.. What I'm trying to do is determine the extra width and wheel widths used with the widebady.. I'm working on two options for my SA. One option is ZG flares which i believe are 2" wide or a custom set of flares around 2-3" wide. I want 10" wide rear wheel and need a way without the widebody for it.. I decided if I have to go 5 lug it's cool. Already have TII front brakes and doing the Ford 8.8 so I'll have the option of the better selection and offsets of 5 lug wheels..

 

Heres a shot of the rear of my widebody. Me and you both know its the widest kit you can get, and is probally not the route you would like to go, but this gives you some perspective. This kit probally adds 4-5 inches on each side.



Going to run 17x12 rims and 315/35/17 tires (when they wear out im going with 335/35/17's)

Also sounds like your setup is going to be similar to mine, TII brakes up front and the 8.8" out back.

 

Thanks.. I would love to run 315's on the rear but I know I can't. Thinking 10" wide wheels
Where did you get your wheels?

 

No rear wheels (tires just proped in wheel wells for picture, that's why the one tire is backwards) yet, but im going to get them from CCW.

I hope to have them match my fronts:

 

The Mariah isnt very wide at all.....I run 245-17s out back.
The Mode1 is more about looks than race-ready tire clearance.Part of the problem is that most of the stock rear fender is retained under the fiberglass,so you cant run the rear tire ALL the way out to the edge of the fender lip,unless the car is not lowered or you dont mind rubbing occasionally.I choose to stay a little inwards so as not to crack or otherwise damage the metal-fiberglass bond from constant tire impacts.If I went any wider to the inside,it would rub the inner wall when I went diagonally up a driveway or curb.
Im sure you could go wider if you ran smaller circumference wheel/tires.Or run wide rims,skinnier tires like they are starting to do with drift cars.That would get the sidewall to "bend" inwards,avoiding the fender lip above.I really wish we had IRS,so the rear tires could camber in as the suspension traveled up.Id love to fill up the rear wells to the brim with tire....

 

When I installed my kit, I trimmed the oem fenders right at the flare line to give me the clearance I needed since it was lowered. Have pics if needed.

 

Post them if you can.. Thanks

 

I you're not in a hurry, I've thinking of doing a write-up on the entire wb rear fender install process.

 

that would be cool.

 

Yah post it..

 

I'm sending my wheels back to CCW. There changing my outer lip from 6" to 4" so I can thuck the wheels under the fenders when I drop it. I'll be keeping the 315's though. If I decide to go back to 12" wheels I'll just add 2 inches to the inner lip. plenty of space left.

 

luiml73 : What rear springs are you running?

 

Stock for now. I tried installing the ISC rear adjuster kit with their springs, and even at the highest setting the fenders hit the tires. I honestly think I can drop the car 3-4 inches with this kit.

I'll post some pics of the install as soon as I get my wheels back from CCW.




Her


This what a want it to look like when i'm done.

 

How much rear spring travel do you think it will have? I'm trying to get the least possible..

 

Well I've been researching this stuff for a while.. I'm down to two options. ZG flares bolted on or molded flares. I found pics of some flares molded on a FD to show what I'm leaning toward. Looks nice. I will mold the rear of my sideskirt into the flare.

 

Problem:

Car is lowered, (Eibachs), and I couldn't even get the big knuckle of my middle finger between the tire and fender lip



Solution, 1st cut, used a die gringer with a 3X1/8" cut off blade.



2nd cut
Note the you cut above the seam and leave the overfender on the lip.



3rd cut
Leave a 1/2" of the inner fender exposed.



Hammer and dolly the lip over. At this point it can be stitch welded or tacked and sealed, your choice.
Be sure to do every bit of rust prevention that you can before installing any flare or overfender.

 

Thanks.. nice work.. I thought my flares would be here today. But no boxes today.. Will wait till tommorow. Lookng forsome nice 15X10's for the rear

 

Just got my flares in the mail. Now to cut up the car..lol

 

Post pictures as you progress!

 

Ok... Will do