wide band mounting on dual exhaust
wide band mounting on dual exhaust
I have the wideband and want to mount it where the dual exhaust comes into one, but the car is low and dont want to damage the sensor. would it matter or affect the reading if I mounted it onto one of the exhaust pipess whether the front or rear rotor to give the same reading? the exhaust is racing beat headers to a fully welded exhaust which adds more hassle also for the welding of the bung and mounting . any info. is appreciated. thanks-erik
Buy an extra bung and plug, weld a bung on each pipe. For tuning check the afrs on both housings, for full time monitoring, if installing an afr gauge, use the rear rotor for you reading.
I wish I could but my money is funny and I got the AEM wideband wheeling and dealing. its going on a 12A bp on outers +sp with a holley and a bottle of spray.being that i just installed a new fuel system and have yet to put on bottle it would not be full time but for the tuning process and when I make othe mods. thanks Trochoid for feedback.
O I C!!! Sorry I thought you meant buy 1 more o 2 sensor to have one on either pipe. thats a great idea though to have one on either and swap the o2 . thanks greatly for 411!!!!!
I've got the same wideband gauge for my car. Since my exhaust is uncollected a la RB FC streetport system, I can only monitor one rotor. I'll be using the rear rotor as it seems thats the most likely to have fuel problems, for some odd reason.
why is it the rear rotor to have issues with the fuel as opposed to the both leaning out or getting the same fuel distribution? Both you and Trochoid made the same advice concerning the rear rotor. thanks also for the 411..priceless for me at this time.
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Originally Posted by rxtasy3
there's no way the sensor will get hot enough way back there to be accurate.
Not only will the sensor not get hot enough, being that close to the end of the exhaust, it will suck in fresh air and throw the readings askew. I know, all logic dictates that there is no way a tailpipe can suck in air, but it does between pulses. It's even mentioned in the LM-1 instructions.
As far as monitoring the rear rotor, I have yet to find a difinitive answer as to why that is the one that usually goes first. The only explaination that I can come up with is the cooling system. I believe the rear rotor tends to run hotter than the front one because of the way the cooling flows though the engine. More heat, more chance of detonation and running lean due to the expanding, less dense air mixture.
As far as monitoring the rear rotor, I have yet to find a difinitive answer as to why that is the one that usually goes first. The only explaination that I can come up with is the cooling system. I believe the rear rotor tends to run hotter than the front one because of the way the cooling flows though the engine. More heat, more chance of detonation and running lean due to the expanding, less dense air mixture.
I think they recommend 12-18" from the engine, don't recall for sure. They also recommend buying thier overpriced heatsink when installing on a rotary. If you are running a carb, then yes, 2 bungs. I had borrowed a wb, after he took it back, I installed the plug. That plug is now laying on the road somewhere between here and last Saturdays rotary meet. Since I didn't have a spare plug, I cut the ends off of an old O2 sensor and used that to plug the hole.
Any suggestions for finding the lowest price on an LM-1, I may be looking for the add too on so I can datalog the other engine parameters.
FYI, one of the stock VW Bosch wb O2 sensors is compatable with the LM-1 and much cheaper than the one that comes with the kit.
Any suggestions for finding the lowest price on an LM-1, I may be looking for the add too on so I can datalog the other engine parameters.
FYI, one of the stock VW Bosch wb O2 sensors is compatable with the LM-1 and much cheaper than the one that comes with the kit.
Last edited by trochoid; Oct 29, 2006 at 09:41 PM.
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