Well i was trying to remove my clutch master cylinder, wich still hasnt been. I cant get that damned top nut off, but this is one of my battle wounds. Damn stud on back of those cheap pedals tore the **** ouf of my arm

 

Ouch! That sucks. That top nut is freakin impossible to get off. I managed somehow, but when I put on the new cylinder I was unable to lock it back down. Can't find a socket or a wrench that can get in that tiny little spot. If you figure it out, let me know.

 

****, i removed three of them in one day, my arm was so tired and i had scratched my back tore up my shirt climbing in and out of parts cars.....

just to find out that none of the master cylinders worked anymore, so i paid $60 for a new one from the parts store....that top bolt is such a bitch

 

From what I've began to understand, the best way is to take the clutch pedal off the shaft. I have done the replacement before I though of messing with the pedal itself.

 

Ya know there are some spots on this car that is just plain a pain in the major *** to work on. I know one thing yesterday, I didn't realize replacing my negative battery cable would be such a pain in the ***. That damn bolt on the engine just wouldn't move an inch! Too much **** in the way too, feel sorry for those who have A/C.

 

AAAwwwww...You got a booboo. I wish I had a pic host. Ill show you some battle scars.

PS.... If you have the right tools its pretty easy.


Who looks at your pedals annyway? Trash

 

AAAAAWW the battle marks from the 7

Dan Atkins

 

You gotta be kidding. I just did a clutch master in a buddies car. He has all stock pedals and I got the same scratches on my arm. I used a stubby 12mm wrench to get the top nut off IIRC. Hey, thats part of wrenching. I got scars from cars, airplanes, you name it. Who cares, I dont plan to be a hand model anyway.

 

Cuts are one thing, but burns suck. I burned my hand with the heat gun the otherday and **** did that hurt. The off and on pain sucked. I was all gung-ho to pull off my rear end that night and then i burn the **** out of my hand 10 minutes into it, no good

 

Well the battle scar was pointless. I still have no clutch pressure hardly. Well i have clutch pressure for about 5 mins then it loses it all. We bled and rebled the clutch and when it bleeds the fluid comes out all foamy, thats where we think the problem lies. We bled over 2 and a half canisters worth of fluid and still no luck. Any ideas as to why its foamy, or why i lose pressure after a few mins of driving, or use

 

Heh, i got a burn on my hand. crap it hurt when i got chlorine in it! I decided to put a strait pipe on the lawnmower and burnt myself messing around.

 

Did you replace the rubber line that goes between the master and the slave?

 

key word.. CHEAP my momo's are great, it was a bit of a pita to get the GO pedal to trim down enuff so the momo's curve was just right and wouldnt break....dam long stock pedal!

 

When I replaced my master and slave cylinders, I only had to fill up the reservoir 3 times. If you're seeing foamy output, your'e picking up air somewhere...check for leaks. RU bleeding it according to the Haynes procedure?

 

Yes we did it by the haynes manual, imma check on that hose thou, its never been repalced and is in rough shape, when the pedal is pushed u can see it bulge, alot.

 

A stainless steel braided hose is like $20 from mazdatrix, might wanna invest in one

 

lol, i had no problems taking mine off. problem is i don't remember how i did it. my dads a mechanic and he has practically ever single tool that i need, so it might have been a special socket. i think i was using those socket wrenches that have the socket built into it, those work great.

 

I got it using a bendy end with a long extension and a deepwell socket, it was interesting lol. I found out it is my slave cylinder bad, after only 1 year. and it say from early nov till mid april. Very upsetting. Now to get a new one of those

 

I got a tip for anyone pulling the clutch master out. Takes me about 2 minutes from start to finish to get both of the nuts off with a regular socket or a regular wrench. All you need is a pair of needle-nose pliers. The pliers are to take the E-clip off the pin that holds the actuator rod to the clutch pedal bar. You then drop the actuator out of your way and have full access to both nuts. This also makes putting the master back in place easier since you don't have to line up the actuator to the piston till it's already bolted down.

Bleeding the clutch is easy - loosen the bleeder with your hose attached and pump the pedal till it comes out clear and without bubbles, just keep topping off the master. You may go through a pint, but it's way easier than any other way and a quart of the cheap stuff only costs a couple bucks anyway.