1984se

13B SE wasnt ideling properly, so i took it to my mechanic. He adjusted the air/fuel thingy behind the air box(he recomended that no one do this, dont know why he did it on mine though he been in the biz for 35yrs so i trust him)idled good @900. After a cruise up the mountians still ran fine. But dismorning started it up warmed up fine. then took off got to a stop sign then same thing the idle keeps wanting to drop... any suggestions on what i should check? oh yeah i have a leak little leak in the exaust system somewhere after the stock header but that would'nt make a difference right? What should i check???? Oh yeah and also when im driving and pushing the accelerator the car wants to die out like it's running out of gas???? what should i do????HELP


air check valve?? sparkplugs??? what help???

is it safe to drive???

Blitz0309

Check for vaccum leaks

O 16581 72452 5

Exhaust leaks make a difference i've noticed, i keep doing exhaust work and everytime my car idles differently when i test it out, my ACV also made a huge difference with idle, i took it out and blocked it off but didn't seal it good and it wouldn't idle.

1984se

ISNT THE acv suppoede to be clear not clogged or blocked off.

O 16581 72452 5

Eh... they sell block off plates for them.

1984se

ok...anyone know where i can get a compression check??

MRGSL-SE

check the original timing on the distributer where its grooved in... I found out yesterday that mine was retarded just by a bit and now its idling around 1000k, but that's with messing with the AAS... I'll be getting back to that.... but before it use to go crazy after my RE-SUPER INJECTION intake swap...

bliffle

I saw a recomendation here to squirt propane from your propane torch (unlit!) at the vac lines to find a leaker. Haven't tried it yet.

B

genrex

Some good reading material:
http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html

nlc1179

check for vaccum leaks. it sounds like your car is doing the same thing that mine was doing. i looked around, and sure enough one of the vaccums were completely off. i put it on, and the car ran fine.

1984se

the guy had syntethic blend ! ! ! in there the weird thing was that one morning as i checked the oil it was below the "E" so **** i was even scared to start it but got to a gas station and put "REGULAR" 20-50 one at first then i seemed like i overflowed it ! pass the "F" on to the part of the dipstick where its "ROUND" but not to much so like a dumb *** i thought ok better a lil over than no oil at all. so i put another 1/4. ran ok. then the day b-4 yesterday in the evening the homies and I went to angeles crest. (3 FB's and 2FC's) so anyway ran good the whole way. until yesterday morning it started acting up. so after work i tried to drain a lil oil and ended up dropping the plug so drained the whole pan,took it back to regular castrol 20-50. now it runs fine...my mechanic said if it was overfilled the engine couldnt breath. So i guess it okay now...still gonna run tests....

Any precautioins on what MIGHT have happend for having it overfilled for about 4 days...but only driven a total of like 200mi if not less???? what should i look for that i might have fucked up?????

1984se

sorry for the bad grammer.

Metallic_rock

I doubt you messed anything up. running it low on oil, on the other hand...

1984se

OK SO just in case for precautions if i did mess anything up where and what should i look for.

Dcrasta

My gsl-se had the same problem. this is how I fixed it

1: Read that post that someone has a link for
2: Make sure all your intake pipes (big 'air funnel') is sealed up and properly connected.
3: Check for any vacuum line leaks (little 1/8th vacuum hoses crack and leak replace them all)
4: adjust your TPS (throttle position sensor) and throttle stop screw (the throttle blades should be nearly completely closed or the BAC (Bypass Air Control) wont work correctly.
5: The thing your mechanic adjusted was the a/f ratio (only effective at idle) you can adjust this in the middle
6: clean air filters and spark plugs make a huge difference
7: clear the computer (remove the negative (ground) ) terminal from the battery for about 15 minutes
8: Adjust the timing
9: The BAC is adjusted with the screw on top of the EFI chamber. Its a small screw and turning it carefully clockwise will seat it. I have mine turned almost 1 full turn counterclockwisE to get my idle at 600-700 rpms (2nd tick on the tach).
10: your idle is probably droppnig because you have too much air entering during idle. Probably because your throttle plates are open.

You can take the small hose off the BAC and spray lots of carb cleaner into the cambers. sometimes carbon builds up and doesnt let it close that last fraction of an inch that it needs to close for it to work correctly.

Hope that helps. Advancing the timing slightly seems to help these cars. Also make sure your leading and trailing timing are adjusted correctly.

1984se

thanks for the advise..by the way no carb its FI

Dcrasta

Unless its been changed all GSL-SE models were equipped with EFI (mazda first gen FI). This was a good system but prone to carbon buildup in the EFI Chamber (know as the BAC or Bypass Air Control). This is controlled by a stepper motor and the throttle plates have to be clean for it to work correctly. you can spray some Gum Cutter or Carb Cleaner into the small BAC tubes to clear some of the carbon out.

nlc1179

he just means spray carb cleaner to find if a vaccum is sucking or blowing air.

Dcrasta

No thats not what I mean. I mean remove the smaller tubes going into the big EFI chamber (SAYS EFI ON IT) and spray gum cutter or carb cleaner into it. They get carboned up and it can cause your idle to suffer.

In addition to everything else listed.