1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

White smoke mist around Carb.

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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 03:58 PM
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White smoke mist around Carb.

Am having problem. I had eliminated the rats nest only to simplify things a little more, Accidently it eliminated a bad vaccum leak that it already had. Ran perfect one day, after that it wouldnt idle good it really wouldnt want to hold idle I had the hood opened when trying to keep it going to see if I saw any leak, but instead I found a mist of water around the carb on the driver side and vapor as if it was steaming out of there, I know its radiator fluid due to the smell of it and the exhaust white smoke. Also eliminated emmisions along with the rats nest and shutter valve. Anyone has any suggestions on what mine might be doing? I've owned the car for 6 yrs and havent put 50 miles on it LOL, Help!!! Thanks.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 04:48 PM
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50 miles in 6 yrs? car sits waaay too long. white smoke, time for rebuild.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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I agree that it might have sat for too long. That could mess up the engine pretty bad, as well as the carb of course.

There are a few places that coolant runs near the carb. Make sure you didn't bump anything loose. That is always possible.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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First guess would be the coolant o-rings that go with the intake mainfold gasket. Much easier to check and elininate than doing an entire rebuild. check also that your intake manifold is torqued properly.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 10:52 AM
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Get a new intake manifold gasket, plus the two O-rings that go along with it. If you still have coolant going out the exhaust after that is done, then read this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-coolant-seal-repair-maybe-750774/

Good luck.


.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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^ Intake manifold gasket. At least I hope that's what you meant to say. If your O-rings are toast you can always just plug the two coolant ports with 20mm freeze plugs. You can get them at pretty much any parts store, but if the idiot behind the counter says they don't carry them, then he isn't looking hard. Use some JB weld to hold them in place.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 11:08 AM
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Thanks Chris, I fixed it.

Also, when installing the freeze plugs you don't need any J.B. Weld or anything like that. They are a very tight fit, and pressed in. They are a very soft metal, so they deform to match the size/shape of the opening. You just have to be careful when pressing them in, so that you get them to go in straight. I used a tight fitting socket (one that just fits inside the plug) and put an extension on that, which worked great as a press tool. Actually a very easy modification to make to your car.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 05:32 PM
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Thanks guys, guess I forgot to mention that I just rebuild the carb two weeks ago or so and have no leak around the carb. like it used to. Drove fine, Now have that little problem I mentioned at the begining of this thread, but will try to plug with two quarters has anyone done it that way??? I have the gasket with me just got it in, will work on it tomorrow, I'll keep everyone posted for sure, Thanks to all...
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
^ Intake manifold gasket. At least I hope that's what you meant to say. If your O-rings are toast you can always just plug the two coolant ports with 20mm freeze plugs. You can get them at pretty much any parts store, but if the idiot behind the counter says they don't carry them, then he isn't looking hard. Use some JB weld to hold them in place.
On my way to Autozone getting 20mm freeze plugs, but am gonna use silicone instead hope it works though, wish me luck.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 06:14 PM
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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Thanks Chris, I fixed it.

Also, when installing the freeze plugs you don't need any J.B. Weld or anything like that. They are a very tight fit, and pressed in. They are a very soft metal, so they deform to match the size/shape of the opening. You just have to be careful when pressing them in, so that you get them to go in straight. I used a tight fitting socket (one that just fits inside the plug) and put an extension on that, which worked great as a press tool. Actually a very easy modification to make to your car.
I read the thread you sent me towards and it sure sounds like it could work for me if that too is my problem like it was for you I will give the plugs a show and if worse case I will dump in the AlumAseal radiator stop leak, glad it worked for you, BTW saw your vid cool man
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 10:15 AM
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Thanks man!

And, when I installed the freeze plugs, it was pretty clear that they would provide good sealing. I did not see a need for any kind of sealant to go with them, so I didn't use any in order to avoid future issues with removing the manifold gasket should I ever need to again.

Just be careful when installing them, so you can make sure that they go in straight. And since they're dirt cheap, you might even want to get a spare or two just in case you screw up on the installation.
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Thanks man!

And, when I installed the freeze plugs, it was pretty clear that they would provide good sealing. I did not see a need for any kind of sealant to go with them, so I didn't use any in order to avoid future issues with removing the manifold gasket should I ever need to again.

Just be careful when installing them, so you can make sure that they go in straight. And since they're dirt cheap, you might even want to get a spare or two just in case you screw up on the installation.
I couldnt find freeze plugs for it so I went with two quarters instead, seems to have fixed the problem after a while of it warming up I started to rev-it just to see if it was responding and so it was but everytime I released the throttle I would hear this loud ssssssss coming from the engine more like the carb area, it kinda sound it like a whistle, Well found the problem using a spray bottle w/gasoline it turns out to be that flat black piece between the carb and the intake (you know the one with all the pegs coming out of it from driver side) anyhow got kinda late and will have to pull carb up again and maybe use silicone to see it eliminates that sound and get it to iddle properly had to leave it idleling at 1200rpm in order to keep it from sutting off on me. Wish me luck man! Do you think there might be something else I should do since I'll be pulling the carb out again?
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:22 AM
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Pull off the spacer and make sure all surfaces (manifold, spacer both side, bottom of carb throttle body) are smooth and flat. Do that before you go putting any sealant all over it. Keep in mind if you have to pull the carb or spacer off you'll have to put new sealant on, which means you'll have to clean off all the old sealant. This could be quite a pain in the ***.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 12:24 AM
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i know that black plastic piece ur talking about. check the gaskets, or it may be cracked. starting fluid would be safer to use than gasoline.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 09:05 AM
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& keep in mind; the hard rubber "gaskets" on the carb spacer aren't removable or replaceable. It has to be replaced as a unit.
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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My black spacer between the carb and intake didnt have seperate gasket when pulled it out. is it suppose to? or would I be safe to put sealant on it? What would be the best and safest route to take guys? Thanks for all your replies they all have been very helpful THANKS...
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Old Oct 7, 2009 | 05:43 PM
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The rubberized gaskets (they're actually pretty stiff, but they do flex when the carb is torqued down) are permanently bonded on, and you shouldn't see a separate gasket, no.

Times past, I've used a really thin layer of blue silicone when I suspected vacuum leaks. It's fairly easy to rub off without tools, later. It needs to be really thin, though, as you don't want to block any of the small vacuum ports.
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