FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I bought an 84' G a few months back. The engine in it is a Mazda reman from about 8 years ago. He installed it and drove it for about 3,000-5,000 miles and it just quit on him. He never investigated the problem (Im thinking coolant seal, as I can see tons of coolant in the housings) and let it sit. I picked it up for $400. Anyway, the real question is, what all should I replace while I have the engine pulled. Im putting an engine from one of my other FB's into it without pulling it apart. It runs fair, but has some noises and leaks. All of the emissions are removed and it runs a Mikuni carb and a RB Streetport system. Ive already ordered $800 in parts today and will probably have to buy more. Tell me if you see anything Ive missed:

-MazdaTrix 4 puck Race Clutch Disk
-MazdaTrix Race Pressure Plate
-Clutch t/o bearing
-Clutch Pilot bearing and seal
-Clutch Master Cylinder rebuild kit
-New Clutch Slave Cylinder and steel hose
-New rear trans mount
-Trans front cover and seal
-Front and rear trans seal
-Stiffened engine mounts
-All new hoses under hood (radiator and heater hoses)

Also installing a new Carter fuel pump, Holley FPR and gauge.

Does anyone else see anything it would be useful to change why the engine and trans are seperated? Ive done this to TurboII's but this is my first time tackling an FB.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Don't know what type of leaks are on your engine but I recommend the following gaskets and seals.
Oil pan gasket/intake and exhaust gaskets, including new coolant O'rings.
If it still has the beehive, either convert or install new O'rings.
Rear main engine seal.
Water pump/t-stat
New belts.
Fuel hoses to the carb
Some of these parts may already haved been changed on your old engine but I am listing because I do not know.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You need the "high Rear Oil Pressure Regulator" da wacky way

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Damn, yeah I forgot all about the oil pan and exhaust gaskets. Waterpump is fairly new and the tstat will also be replaced. Belts of course... I guess Im set to go then cause that all I can think of. Oh, also have to make some new OMP lines. The old ones werent cutting it. Order some teflon tubing and some clamps. Thanks guys

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Just broke it free and pulled it out. Going back in will be easier as my other engine is stripped of pretty much everything. Plus in 4 wires and a few hoses and bolt up the mounts and it will be ready to drive.




This chassis is nearly completely rust free, interior is near flawless as Ive seen. All I have to do is replace the front bumper because its cracked and falling off. But I wanted a nice air dam anyway. Rear passanger corner has a baseball size dent which cracked the lens on the taillight. So replace that and paint it and I have myself one super clean and good running FB. Ill be happy to be back in an FB, TurboII was fun but nothing nearly as fun as an FB.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

Got the engine apart today. Im not sure if I talked about the engines past, but here is the short history. The engine was a Mazda reman approx 6-8 years ago. It ran for around 3,000-5,000 miles before failure. He said it just quit one day and he never got around to fixing it, so it sat for all those years until I bought the car for $400! Anyway, took it apart, and didnt really see anything that showed me what went wrong. The rear rotor housing was full of gunk. Maybe a mix of oil and coolant that had sat for so many years. At first glance I thought all of the internals would be paper weights, but after some degreaser and a wire wheel on a drill, I got the housings looking brand new. Neither of the housings have ANY chipping or gooves what so ever. Look 99% brand new minus the obvious oil and the discolored spots that the degreaser left. All I need to get this going again is a soft seal kit, and a rotor kit. The apex seals were jammed in the grooves and rusted in place, and the first 2 I attempted to ease out cracked into 4 pieces... anyway, here are some pictures.

Here is what I encountered on first opening :


Here is one of the housings before cleaning. At first I thought the rusting would be deep and un-repairable, that wasnt so:


Here is a pulled back shot of the overall mess of weathered parts:


Here is an iron, love how you can see a perfect outline of the rotor that hadnt been moved in nearly a decade:


This is the cleaned housing, ignore the discolored spots, the degreaser did that for some reason. Its perfectly smooth though, just hard to see:


Here are the Eshaft, rotor and housing layed out. The rotor still has some slight surface rust, but Ill take care of it tomarrow:


Housing up close. I missed some spots with the wire wheel, but its just very light surface rust. Ill kill it with the brush tomarrow:


Some more surface rust, but you can see that the surface is smooth and chip/groove free :


Ill post more as I go...

vipergts_3

iTrader: (9)

when i saw the first motor pic i about died !! i had a similar situation a while back , cant wait to see more progress.

FCKing1995

iTrader: (3)

I have made a topic on the build, should still be on the first page. Ill be updating as often as I can. All I will really be doing though is adding some aftermarket stuff after i do an engine swap from one FB to another. Then some small repairs and body work, then paint. Final layout should be a Stock port 12A, Mikuni 40/44 carb, RB Streetport exhaust, 4 puck clutch, race pressure plate, new clutch associated parts, Stainless clutch hose, RB springs, some new tires, then a new paint job and a new front bumper of some sort.