WHere is this coolant leaking from?
04-11-05, 12:30 PM
#1
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WHere is this coolant leaking from?
I recently rebuilt my carb and have noticed that the area under the car, those little divots at the top corners of your rotor and side houseings, coolant is collecting there. I suspect i might have a leak from teh cold start system as my radiator lvls don't seem to be moving at all.
Anywhere i might have missed during the rebuild that would cause the leak?
I don't think its leaking out of the engine as the side housings are quite clean on both sides and i am getting almost no smoke ( some smoke if i lift throttle at higher rpms and let the engine brake a little long, solution to that is shift smoother
)
Anywhere i might have missed during the rebuild that would cause the leak?
I don't think its leaking out of the engine as the side housings are quite clean on both sides and i am getting almost no smoke ( some smoke if i lift throttle at higher rpms and let the engine brake a little long, solution to that is shift smoother
)
Last edited by Captain Lou; 04-11-05 at 12:34 PM.
04-12-05, 11:42 AM
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I have a pin hole in my heater core hose that runs across the engine near the firewall...took me a while to find....only spits while I'm driving(or revving)
not sure if that is the area your describing or not...I'm new at this...
not sure if that is the area your describing or not...I'm new at this...
04-12-05, 03:58 PM
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Ok, heater core hose or intake manifold o rings.
Imispelled earlier
Under the car, was meant under the carb so if looking at the carb form the drigvers side, below the baseplate is where there is coolant. its on top of the rotor housings not beleath it. This is above the intake manifold here isn't it?
where in the intake manifold are there o- rings anyway?
i'll double check the heater core line, i am not sure if it runs across the engine as you described
Imispelled earlier
Under the car, was meant under the carb so if looking at the carb form the drigvers side, below the baseplate is where there is coolant. its on top of the rotor housings not beleath it. This is above the intake manifold here isn't it?where in the intake manifold are there o- rings anyway?
i'll double check the heater core line, i am not sure if it runs across the engine as you described
04-12-05, 04:09 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by Captain Lou
Ok, heater core hose or intake manifold o rings.
Imispelled earlier Under the car, was meant under the carb so if looking at the carb form the drigvers side, below the baseplate is where there is coolant. its on top of the rotor housings not beleath it. This is above the intake manifold here isn't it?
where in the intake manifold are there o- rings anyway?
i'll double check the heater core line, i am not sure if it runs across the engine as you described
Imispelled earlier
Under the car, was meant under the carb so if looking at the carb form the drigvers side, below the baseplate is where there is coolant. its on top of the rotor housings not beleath it. This is above the intake manifold here isn't it?where in the intake manifold are there o- rings anyway?
i'll double check the heater core line, i am not sure if it runs across the engine as you described
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04-12-05, 05:34 PM
#9
cooling system pressure will force the coolant above the intake manifold. from the picture above the coolant is just taking the passage of least resistance. Do a search there are several ways to remedy this. from quarters & JB weld to freeze plugs <--(i use this one) to getting new o-rings
04-12-05, 05:37 PM
#10
One thing to keep in mind is that if those are hardened from age and leaking, that other soft seals in the engine will soon follow. It's best to do a quick soft seal freshening up when you've got an extra $120-$180 for a gasket set and enough time to pull the engine, tear down, clean, inspect, and reassemble with new or like new hard seals (depends if they're still within spec), likewise for springs. Or at least that's my philosimaffy. 
04-12-05, 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
One thing to keep in mind is that if those are hardened from age and leaking, that other soft seals in the engine will soon follow. It's best to do a quick soft seal freshening up when you've got an extra $120-$180 for a gasket set and enough time to pull the engine, tear down, clean, inspect, and reassemble with new or like new hard seals (depends if they're still within spec), likewise for springs. Or at least that's my philosimaffy.
by soft seals im assuming you don't mean breaking hte housings apart? jsut everything that bolts on? if for no other reason than the 120-180 price seems a little off for a rebuild kit, even without rotor seals and rings
Last edited by Captain Lou; 04-12-05 at 06:25 PM.
04-13-05, 05:46 AM
#13
Soft seals as in a gasket set. http://www.mazdatrix.com/b2.htm
I once rebuilt an engine that was recently rebuilt but ran out of water. All I changed were the rotor housings and threw in a gasket set. I didn't clean any of the carbon off the rotors or even touch the oil o-rings since the oil cooling system was fine. I became the new owner of the vehicle and that engine went back togther quickly and has been my daily driver ever since. It's been over a year and no problems.
For a low price 12A gasket set, you could try this one. http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=89-1000-N201
I once rebuilt an engine that was recently rebuilt but ran out of water. All I changed were the rotor housings and threw in a gasket set. I didn't clean any of the carbon off the rotors or even touch the oil o-rings since the oil cooling system was fine. I became the new owner of the vehicle and that engine went back togther quickly and has been my daily driver ever since. It's been over a year and no problems.
For a low price 12A gasket set, you could try this one. http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=89-1000-N201
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