I know that it has been done before, but it takes quite a bit of work. A search should produce a detailed writeup on it.

I don't know how a conversion like that compares to something like the Respeed R&P kit.

 

heres a few links:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=9442128

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+subframe+swap

http://kahren.net/Manuals-Diagrams-A.../misc/swap.pdf

that should get you started... just remember your F'in with the steering/suspension geometry of your ride and should know what you are doing before you start a project like this...if in doubt save up for the respeed setup.

 

I hope Y'all don't mind me resurrecting this thread....

I also have a little more free-play in the steering wheel but not much.
I'd like to get rid of it anyway!

Normally, I would just adjust the gearbox by loosening the outer locknut on the top of the box and adjusting the center screw to reduce the internal backlash of the gears but when I looked at the box it has a cover over what I would presume to be the adjustment nut and screw.
It doesn't appear to be removable for adjustment.
Anyone else have this and what was your experience for adjustment?

 

For your case, that cap just pulls off with a pair of pliers if I am invisioning it correctly. Then just use a flat head screw driver to tighten it up. Assembly is in reverse order.

But, I hate to say this, sloppy steering comes with age in these cars. I have adjusted my box time and time again....the cool part is the steering feels like new - you get in it and are like "Holly **** this is awesome"...but only for a few months until it needs re-adjustment. I have read that too many adjustments can compromise the whole box and could be un-safe. So I owned up for the re-speed conversion and should be getting in the next week or so. I hope it gets here soon.

 

No, the adjustment is NOT made with a flat head screwdriver!!! That is how you would do it on just about any other gearbox I've ever seen, but that screw serves a different function on these boxes. The adjustment on these is made using the nut with the holes drilled in it (for a spanner wrench). Loosen the ginormous flat nut, then adjust the next inner nut (with the holes), then tighten the big one up again.

 

Thanks for the response!
Yes, I just found out the same thing...
I looked in an on-line manual from another member here and saw that the adjustment is made with that thing that I thought was a cap.
I haven't got a wrench nearly big enough for the lock nut, just a crescent and it won't stay on the nut with the angle I have to approach it from.
According to the manual, I'm supposed to use a punch and hammer to move the adjuster after I get the nut loose.

Oh well. until I get a BFS (big %$*@ socket) I'll move on to something else!
I would like to get rid of the 1" of slop though.

 

Crap - I've been holding a flathead while spinning the spanner. I hope I haven't messed anything up. Somewhere I read a writeup that said that the flathead part had to held while the adjustment was made....I need to look back into that. Thanks for the heads up.

 

You can use a metal chisel to notch the nut. Then use a flat head and hammer to bang it loose. Do the same on the opposite side for tightening. Just be careful.


And, I feel better now, I knew I wasn't high on crack. Here is an excellent write up and is what I followed to fix my steering- it had been years since I did it, so my memory was a little off:

http://www.mazspeed.com/steeringgear.htm

I followed this to a tee and my steering lasted 1 year and a half, then subsequent adjustments have only lasted 6 months. It could have been I wasn't tightening everying, or the gear is wearing - I don't know...and don't care. A new rack is on its way....