Do u guys know here i can get 1? if i can. a new box is $700!!!! too much for my taste.

 

Not available AFAIK. What parts do you need? The bearings are probably standard parts.

 

I just need the gearbox, it has too much play, not safe.

 

I hate to say it, but if you don't like play in the steering you should buy an FC..........






<runs and hides>

 

Perhaps you're unaware of the rack & pinion kit by cpracing.com.

 

i cant find the kit on that site... it seems like a personal site thing...

 

There is a method to adjust the box, it's located in the 'facts' section of www.mazspeed.com. I don't have any personal experience with the technique expounded in the article, but those guys generally know their stuff, so it's worth a shot.

While this may be a silly question, have you checked your steering components? Worn balljoints, tierods or the idler arm can all cause play in the wheel.

 

Yeah I wanted one bad when I first heared about them. But I really haven't heard good things from people who have bought them.


Do you have it?


--Alex

 

the correct website is www.cpracing.ca

 

still to much gawd damn money!!!!!!$600... too much if i was going to spendthat much might as well put forth another hundredandget a new gearbox from mazda.

 

I just bought some new bottom seals for the shaft and metric nuts for the pitman arm. I had to buy 3 seals and the nuts came in a 10 pack. $10 for the proper seal and that includes a new nut whether you might need it or not.

 

I adjusted mine. I wish the digi cam was working. But here's a brief writeup:

1. Find the bolt with the slotted screwdriver end with a nut around it holding it in place. It's on the top of the gearbox.

2. Loosen the nut.

3. Turn in the screw until the steering is touchy. It helps if someone is in the car slightly rocking it back and forth. When you start to see slight movement in the sterring arms, stop turning the screw in.

4. While holding the screw in place, tighten the nut.

5. Be CAREFUL. DO NO OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREW. The steering wheell will be hard to turn and will NOT return to center. It may take a couple of tries, but it's quite easy.

This may solve "wondersteer".

 

My understanding is that this procedure is more of a one-time fix because you're essentially progressively exposing more of the gear teeth to wear until this adjustment becomes useless. I've also read that this can be very touchy, with gear wear occuring within a block after tightening it.

No, not as of yet. My intention is to install it on my project, but like most everyone else I'm concerned with both CPRacing's reputation on this site and the documented problems with the installation. That said however, I haven't seen any feedback that said the rack did not solve wondersteer.

 

I adjusted mine over a year ago, and I have had no problems since. The steering is still exact and not hard to turn. No play in the wheel. It took 20 years for it to wear where it was. I'm sure the box will last another 20 years.

 

I'll prolly try to adjust it but might get a used 1 since it is already out of the car.

 

Your steering would seem to be the exception, given factory play tolerance was what, 1/4"-1/2"? Must be nice *wistful sigh*.

 

if you have the box out already, make sure to do it via the method on mazspeed. Although i think my steering improved after i replaced the stay rod bushing with polyurthane.

Alvin

 

As mentioned previously, make sure all other components are up to snuff:

- Wheel Bearings
- Tie Rods, both sides, inner and outer.
- Ball joints on the suspension arms
- Idler arm and busings
- Pitman arm where it connects to center link.

A small amount of wear in each of these components will add up to 1" of play in the steering wheel.

 

Well when you adjust the gearbox to get rid of the play as long as you don't over tighten it it will hold up for quite awhile. To anyone who had a problem after tightening the gearbox you may have overtightened it. Oh another alternative is an Fc subframe conversion which would include rack and pinion streering, that is what I plan on doing if I don't decide to sell my Rex. Oh and make sure all the bushings and bearing are up to par or else your just wasting your time on the gear box, as when I replaced the wheel bearings my steering got a whole lot tighter still lose as hell especaily with my 205/50/15s up front and my 225/60/15s out back I will never do that again.

 

Try this site for some useful info: http://jimrothe.com/mazda/#Tips.
I tried to adjust mine but it was just too worn. 225K will do that! I had to replace my steering box a few months ago. I found a very tight used box with approx. 70K on it for $105 from Burlington Auto Salvage in Shirley, Ma. They did have more and they will ship. http://www.burlingtonautoparts.com/

Just to note, if you do end up replacing the steering box, it is easier to slid the box/column shaft assy out if you first remove the column housing. It gives you more room at the firewall opening. Good luck, it really isn't that bad!!

 

I just got an 85 GSL a couple days ago from a 64yr old guy that really cared for it,he got it with 14k on it and now has 77k when I drove it home.The steering "wallow" was what I thought was an alignment issue,I had it done today and its still like driving a greyhound bus.I will try the screw on the steering box as posted above-if it does not cure the issue,next post will be "for sale"

 

Keep in mind the other components already mentioned in this thread (idler arm, tie rod ends) that would also impact the adjustment. I'd think inspecting and replacing those components as needed would need to be done first, with the steering box adjustment used as a last resort--or as the final piece to the puzzle.

 

Okay, I copied this from an old post that I responded to some time back. Hope this helps. It worked great for me, and was a lot simpler than the other methods. Might be a cheap shortcut, but like I said, it worked so I won't complain....



Okay, if your's is the same as mine, here's whatcha do;

Very important! Grind the beveled edge off of the large socket that you are going to use. It is almost impossible to get that one loose without rounding the corners off even without the bevel on the socket.

Okay, once that is done then get that large nut broken loose. If you manage to do that then you are home free. Once it is loose, then hold it while you turn the next largest nut (mine has a series of holes drilled into it). I used a hammer and cold punch to turn it. Tighten it about 1/8 of a turn, then retighten the large nut and take it for a drive.

This will be a trial and error type of thing. If its still too loose, then tighten that inner nut (the one with the holes in it) another 1/8 turn. If you end up getting it too tight then your steering will loose its self-centering properties and will quickly wear out completely.

I got lucky the first time I tried this. Took it for a drive and there was damn near zero freeplay, but not too tight. I used to have about 2" of freeplay, which was a really exciting setup, but not too practical. Now, when driving down the road small adjustments are almost done telepathically! This changed the entire feel of my car. By far the best thing I have done to it as far as improving the driveability and fun factor...

 

Just ordered some seals from Danny at mazda, he also has a perfect brans new 13B if anyone is interested...

 

hey Kentetsu I have an 86 rx7 whom I only bought for the engine but on this thread some one mention the following "Fc subframe conversion which would include rack and pinion streering" do you have a post on here somewhere or know who does??? am really interested in this set-up for my gsl-se, thanks.