Wheel studs. Anybody done this? Pressed or screwed?
12-17-06, 04:15 PM
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Wheel studs. Anybody done this? Pressed or screwed?
I'm about to go to wheel studs that will press or screw in from the back of the axle flange. I hear that ACS is a good brand and that the screw in are much stouter than the press-in type. I need to make certain I never sling a wheel off again.
Anybody got any experience to share?
Anybody got any experience to share?
12-17-06, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by trochoid
If the stud ever spins out in the hole, you will need to pull the axles to change the tire.
Hey trochoid, do you or would you use Locktight red on the lug studs that go into the flange to hold a spacer/adapter on ? then just torgue on the lug nuts holding the wheels on the studs ? As you know I'm trying to replace the axle that stripped out, but on the next go round I want to put a stop to this nonsense.
BTW: Still looking for my just-painted brake drum that drove off into the woods when the wheel left the car. Can't find the cast iron grey son-of-a-****. I knew I should have painted them red or yellow for some reason.
12-17-06, 05:13 PM
#6
Yes, if using an adapter, I would definitly use Red Locktite to secure the adapter. If the adapter has studs and nuts to mount the wheel, Red on the studs too.
As a side for when installing lug bolts/nuts, don't use an impact, air or electric, to torque them down. I had a kid show up with a 2nd gen, he had stripped at least one out on each wheel with and electric impact. 2nd gens have nuts, it wasn't the nuts he stripped.
As a side for when installing lug bolts/nuts, don't use an impact, air or electric, to torque them down. I had a kid show up with a 2nd gen, he had stripped at least one out on each wheel with and electric impact. 2nd gens have nuts, it wasn't the nuts he stripped.
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12-17-06, 07:58 PM
#9
Originally Posted by David Dewhurst
I use screw in with red Loc-tite on a ITA car....... As do most other IT racers.
Isn't red a little much? I used loc-tite blue in case something gets stripped or messed up, I'll still be able to remove them with some effort. I was thinking that if I use red, I thought that I'd never really be able to remove the studs. Should I use red instead of the blue?
I got the set from Pineapple Racing. I highly recommend them.
12-17-06, 09:31 PM
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***Should I use red instead of the blue?***
Red may seem like over kill but if one or all need to be taken out a hand held bottle torch will provide enough heat to do the job. From my point of view I don't want them loosening.
Red may seem like over kill but if one or all need to be taken out a hand held bottle torch will provide enough heat to do the job. From my point of view I don't want them loosening.
12-17-06, 09:38 PM
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If your life depends on something threaded staying put, I'd red every time. Would you rather have a can of WhoopAss full strength or Whoopass kind and gentle ?
Thousand points of light, dude !
Thousand points of light, dude !
12-17-06, 09:40 PM
#12
For racing, red's fine, on a street car with stock lug bolts and wheels, it's over kill. If there is a problem with them loosening up on a stock setup, then whatever is wrong should be repaired, i.e., worn threads on the hubs. Proper torque and sequence is important also, 85 lb/ft.
12-17-06, 10:14 PM
#13
Originally Posted by trochoid
For racing, red's fine, on a street car with stock lug bolts and wheels, it's over kill. If there is a problem with them loosening up on a stock setup, then whatever is wrong should be repaired, i.e., worn threads on the hubs. Proper torque and sequence is important also, 85 lb/ft.
12-20-06, 05:04 AM
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Screw in studs are superior, pressed in studs are sufficient, BUT if you are running a thick wheel adapter, always opt for a screw in stud given no clearance issues with your brake components. Dont skimp on this kind of repair, needs to be perfect exactly. Wheel fell off? Man, hope the car didn't get tore up too bad. Cast gray is a real good color for a drum just as long as its on the car, for sure.
12-20-06, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by aussiesmg
Anybody heard of a GSL-SE, they are stock with studs....and bigger brakes....
12-20-06, 09:32 PM
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Nothing wrong with press in studs, I changed from wheelbolts to studs/nuts on the front. As long as the gnurl (spelling?)on the stud is a good fit to the hole it is fine.
12-20-06, 11:55 PM
#20
love the braaaap
I'm redrilling the rear axles on my 7 to 5x108 bolt pattern (front has 2nd gen 5 bolt rotors and 1" thick adapters to 5x108). I'll be using stock 2nd gen front press in wheel studs. Should turn out pretty good I think, I don't forsee any problems. But if screw in studs are so superior to press in, why do car manufacturers use press in studs?
Oh ya, the -SE made an extra 35hp, not 20.
Oh ya, the -SE made an extra 35hp, not 20.
12-21-06, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
But if screw in studs are so superior to press in, why do car manufacturers use press in studs?
Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
Oh ya, the -SE made an extra 35hp, not 20.
I'll be glad I get my wheel back on so I can go spank the next SE I run across just because I can.
12-27-06, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 85rotarypower
I'm redrilling the rear axles on my 7 to 5x108 bolt pattern (front has 2nd gen 5 bolt rotors and 1" thick adapters to 5x108). I'll be using stock 2nd gen front press in wheel studs. Should turn out pretty good I think, I don't forsee any problems. But if screw in studs are so superior to press in, why do car manufacturers use press in studs?
Oh ya, the -SE made an extra 35hp, not 20.
Oh ya, the -SE made an extra 35hp, not 20.
Press in studs are "cheaper" and quicker to manufacture and "sufficient" for any daily driver. The majority of rotary engine powered vehicles will never actually need a screw in stud at the rear wheels based on very low torque and horsepower output, and lack of alot of vehicle weight, but nonetheless...screw in studs are superior and a very strong upgrade if ever needed.
12-27-06, 06:57 PM
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SA's and FB's DAMN SURE DO have clearance issues with brake components AND they have only 1/4" thick axle flanges, so screw-in studs and safety wire backs are pretty much out.
The majority of piston powered engines also will never need screw in studs due to low torque and horsepower output. They'll get 5 or 6 or more lugs as their needs increase.
The real crux of this is that our cars had lug studs from the factory, I have gone from 13" to 15" and changed the bolt pattern with adapter spacers. Hey, one came off. I used to have all four corners' longer studs with red Loktite, then Loktite red again with the new spacer adapters and their lug studs. But they've been off and on alot lately by a few different people and the flange threads are 26 years old, probably overtorqued more than once and NOT loktite red the last time they went on.
I'm gonna ARP the bastards and get a double tap of TIG on each stud and will take bets from anybody (or their Momma) that I never have another problem even with my 1 1/4" spacer adapters and my 15" 5 spokes that I liked when I bought 'em and damn sure still do.
The majority of piston powered engines also will never need screw in studs due to low torque and horsepower output. They'll get 5 or 6 or more lugs as their needs increase.
The real crux of this is that our cars had lug studs from the factory, I have gone from 13" to 15" and changed the bolt pattern with adapter spacers. Hey, one came off. I used to have all four corners' longer studs with red Loktite, then Loktite red again with the new spacer adapters and their lug studs. But they've been off and on alot lately by a few different people and the flange threads are 26 years old, probably overtorqued more than once and NOT loktite red the last time they went on.
I'm gonna ARP the bastards and get a double tap of TIG on each stud and will take bets from anybody (or their Momma) that I never have another problem even with my 1 1/4" spacer adapters and my 15" 5 spokes that I liked when I bought 'em and damn sure still do.
