First, here's a picture of my engine bay. There's something missing other than the steering system.






























I'm not sure that running without an oil cooler is a good idea. Any ideas on another oil cooler? I've had no problems running without one, and I've got a spare engine ready to build, so I'm not really that worried about it. Might a transmission or power steering oil cooler be enough of an improvement?




Anyway, to the bit about the control arms.
The bushing I'm taking off seems very deformed, and looks like it's going to be a really big pain to get out. Is this deformation normal?





Thanks,

Craig

 

so you just have the oil cooler bypassed? the line on the front cover is just running right back to the output toward the rear of the engine? I would be very reluctant to run your engine with out an oil cooler, as adequate cooling in a rotary engine is very dependent on the engine oil to supply enough cooling efficiency. i'm sure you know this though. i've heard that a regular oil cooler/trans cooler doesn't provide the cooling that is needed to keep the engine at a stable temp. i would think that coolant alone is only going to provide about half the cooling that is needed to keep everything in check. as the water/coolant is only circulating around the outside of the engine, and the oil is what is actually helping keep the rotors and bearings cool. although i wouuld think that some kind of heat exchanger would be better than none, the only thing i would worry about is that it might be too restrictive as far as keeping the oil flowing at the right rate. plus, the front mount oil cooler also has a thermostat device in it as well. mazdatrix sells them as well as different aftermarket ones here is the site..... http://www.mazdatrix.com/b6.htm as far as the con.t arm bushing, it doesn't really look deformed but just oil and dry rotted. as far as removal, you will most likely need to have it pressed in order to replace it.

 

I'm aware that it's been bypassed, but it was that way when I bought it, and I've driven it that way for years. The engine actually feels stronger than it did when I bought it, as well.

I know where there's another '82 without a running engine for sale for $300, I may buy that for the oil cooler and a couple other parts I'm looking for.

 

Looks like your engine cools itself by sweating oil.

 

Unfortunately that big oil buildup acts like insulation.

I see you also have a block heater. How does that work for you?

 

I actually don't drive it in the winter, but for moving it around the garage or out into the yard it'll start at any temperature if I use the block heater. I've tested that at about -30.

Does anyone know what the fittings are on those oil lines? that's actually where most of the oil's coming from, I think.

 

 

*inserts face into palm and sighs at the stupidity of the lack of an oil cooler* running without an oil cooler WILL cause engine meltdown. install an oil cooler immediately or suffer the consequences. you NEED o-rings under the beehive or oil filter mount..all that oil on the block is a result of faulty or missing o-rings.

the bushings are normal looking to me. they are cracking and in need of replacement but they look normal. they need to be pressed out or melted out. pressing is the preferred method.

 

when u say, "something's missing", ur referring to the threaded studs sticking out, that's where the a/c compressor mounting bracket bolts to. they all have them even if they didn't come with a/c.

 

As to your bushing question: I took mine to the local NAPA to be pressed. the machinist there said they were a nasty, nasty job, high force and very likely to misalign if not done just right.

 

I have never bothered to try pressing that bushing out ; usually I find the ball joint is equally worn too and thus I replace the whole lower control arm. Yes a few more dollars but way , way easier since you are going to remove it anyways. And please put an oil cooler on !!! Any one from 79-82 will bolt right in.

 

http://www.rotary-works.com/mm5/merc...gory_Code=RDOC

lots of options here for oil coolers... we're using one of these on the Rotary Lotus Super 7 I built the engine for. Plus thy're AN fittings so it's easy to find fittings. RB sells adaptors to connect AN fittings to the stock ports, replacing the banjo bolt in th rear and the connection at the front. here's a link

http://www.racingbeat.com/RX7-1975-1...tem/11901.html

as for the LCA.... get a torch from home depot and burn it out. replace the stock bushings with some polys from Re-Speed, and you'll never have to deal with it again.

 

quoted from..(racing beat).......Oil temperature is critical in rotary engines. Oil temperature entering the engine should never be allowed to exceed 205°F. While many factors affect oil temperature, oil cooler size and location are very important to consider. Roughly one-third of all engine heat rejected via the water and oil cooling systems goes out through the oil cooler. The oil cooler should get about one-third of the total cooling air flow.

 

Your just luck it doesn't get that hot up there in Canada or you would have roasted
that engine a long time ago.

 

That's one nasty looking engine ( no offense )

 

Burning them out with a torch is just so much fun. Once you get them going they just remove themselves!

 

I never had much luck with a torch, just a lot of smoke and wasted time.

Throwing them onto a roaring bonfire works in minutes though, and you can watch the bushings squirm their way out of the arm like they can't get out fast enough.

Just don't leave the arms in there too long, or you might change the temper of the metal.







.

 

Burning out the bushings was too messy for me. I chiseled them out with a screwdriver, then used a wire wheel to clean out the rest.