thunkrd

iTrader: (1)

I inherited an FB (gsl-se) and it's all nice and all, but i would like more power. maybe turbo. but how can i get a TII motor? *sigh* how come the rotary has to be so expensive!

timmybighands

I think the rotaries and parts are CHEAP (relatively). My BMW parts are just stupid. Anyway, you can source 13bt's here, on eGay, from builders like pineapple racing, rotaryshack, rotoryresurrection, and atkinsrotary.

They are quite abundant and the swap is pretty straightforward. If I were you, I'd keep the 12a and juice it up. There are several members here who prefer the 12a, including me. I'm looking to hit roughly 220hp or so with my turbo setup, and I'm spraying a 75 shot on top of all that. Not bad for a lightweight car. You can extract as much power from your current motor as you want. Question is: How deep are your pockets?

*EDIT* Nevermind man... I just realized you already have a 13b. Those make decent power already - and can be had for more as well. The same rules apply bud. More air/fuel in and out = more power.

Max7

Pull it out and bolt a 3 Rotor Cosmo motor and turbo in, zoom zoom!

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

If you plan on staying CARB legal, a TII swap is your best option.

steve84GS TII

Seeing as how you are in CA....Bay Area no less....you should only be considering a factory TII swap.That would gain you a fair amount of HP and torque.It can be done cheap,but I GARUANTEE YOU,it will not remain cheap.
One of two things happen when somebody either aquires or swaps a turbo rotary.It either blows up or they pump it up(which can also lead to the former......)
Both cost money,turbo engines are addictive and its easy to spend another 1-2 grand tapping that extra 50-75HP thats availible with the stock TII powerplant.
Add to that, the turbo rotaries absolute intolerence to ham fisted mods/tuning,and your pumped up TII swap can quickly degrade into a heap of molten rubble,especially if you start with a used engine.

Thats how I started,with a $400 PickNPull engine that held on for a while after my susccesful $1500 full TII swap back in 01'.Once it lost its already weakened water seal, my "cheap" swap turned into a $4500 top-O-the-line Mazdatrix S5 block and an $800 turbonetics TO4B.I refused to keep running junk engines in an effort to stay cost effective,its just not worth the labor and headache of a blown engine.My choice has paid off in spades with over 5 years and 40K miles of perfect operation @300HP from both aforementioned units.
You really have only 2 choices,either pay to play,or put up with a fair amount of frustration and failures.

The alternative is to upgrade to a later model N/A rotary.The N/A engines are notoriously reliable and cheaper since they tend to be overlooked by the performance crowd.The 89-92 engines were hitting 160HP with a stock 8000RPM redline.Not bad for a light 1st gen and itll run till the end of time and even pass CA smog.

resjsu

160 hp to the wheels or flywheel?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

All factory stated #s are flywheel.

Manntis

A GSL-SE 13B with a full RB exhaust is reliable, relatively torquey, and puts out decent power. RB claims as much as 35 hp gain. I dunno abot that, but it is definately noticeable over the 135 hp stock

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

No **** on that one, Timmy... Any time someone complains about the cost of RX-7 parts, I say "Go get an Audi like mine."

Manntis

Hell, when I installed HID lighting in the front of the Daytona I decided to change the old, rusted headlight aiming screws. OEM parts are $9.00 per screw, 8 required, and Chrysler's design is different than others so generic is not an option.

Fortunately the good folks at HELP! make replacements that retail for $5.99 for two screws. But still.

Dr_Jeff

put in a Corvette LS-1 engine

look here www.wrongmotor.com

z-beater

If you want power, turbo is the only way to go for a street driven car...

resjsu

**Partial thread jack** but might help this guy too...

Can you and is it worth it to throw a turbo on an 87 13b 6 port... or do they not allow you to turbo...is that what N/A is, i thought it just meant "no turbo" but does it meen "not capable of turboing".....?

I ask because i think a lot of ppl want a bigger engine but dont have money or experience to go turbo. So they could buy a bigger engine and inna couple of years trubo it. Does this make sense?

z-beater

There is a guy locally that put down 231 to the wheels on a 6 port turbo. Nothing wron with it. You are running higher compression rotors though.

Make sure that you get a second gen block those extra 2 injectors will help.

resjsu

A second generation block? i said an 87 motor, seond gen right?
Cool so it is ok.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

There are plenty of NA turbo threads in the 2nd gen section. With the higher compression rotors, tuning is even more critical. But, you can make the same hp as a TII at lower boost levels.