What would cause rear axle to be offset?
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What would cause rear axle to be offset?
I was out in the garage today working on the '83 when I noticed that the driver's side rear tire had more space between it and the side (reinforcement plate side) of the wheel well (three to four finger widths, sorry no mearsuring tape) and the passenger side tire had less space (maybe two finger widths). Both tires are the same size and there are no spacers installed with the rims.
The guy I purchased from said the '83 had had the whole rear axle replaced. What would cause it to have such a large offset to one side? I don't see any signs of rear end damage or the frame being bent. Could the person who replaced the axle have put the trailing arms on the wrong way? Does tightening everything up before placing the load on the suspension do this? Anyone have any ideas on how I can correct this?
Sorry for the vagueness, hopefully someone can follow what I'm saying/asking here
The guy I purchased from said the '83 had had the whole rear axle replaced. What would cause it to have such a large offset to one side? I don't see any signs of rear end damage or the frame being bent. Could the person who replaced the axle have put the trailing arms on the wrong way? Does tightening everything up before placing the load on the suspension do this? Anyone have any ideas on how I can correct this?
Sorry for the vagueness, hopefully someone can follow what I'm saying/asking here
#3
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The Watts link, not the trailing arms, controls the axle placement laterally. Check to make sure neither of the links is bent, and that the center link is not upside down (although as memory serves, that'd be a LOT more than a fingers-width of offset, more like 5-6 inches )
It's entirely possible too that one or both of the body members that the Watts attaches to is bent. Or, that your driver's side axle bearings are loose.
Did you di this measuring with the axle at right height, or with the car jacked up and the rearend hanging free? An ideal Watts linkage has no lateral movement in its travel but the Mazda setup has lots more lateral movement over its travel than a Panhard, so what you're seeing may actually be normal.
It's entirely possible too that one or both of the body members that the Watts attaches to is bent. Or, that your driver's side axle bearings are loose.
Did you di this measuring with the axle at right height, or with the car jacked up and the rearend hanging free? An ideal Watts linkage has no lateral movement in its travel but the Mazda setup has lots more lateral movement over its travel than a Panhard, so what you're seeing may actually be normal.
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If the trailing arms were bent, would that not change the axle alignment as well? Those lower arms see a lot of wear on older cars due to spring sag. They tend to get bent from hitting the ground going over a bump or curb. If one was bent, they could pull the axle out of whack, no? Either way, check the Watts links as well.
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Originally posted by Makenzie71
I've found that when trying to do a 60mph 360 in a RWD car the best thing to offset the rear dif is the hit a deer.
I've found that when trying to do a 60mph 360 in a RWD car the best thing to offset the rear dif is the hit a deer.
Actually accident damage was my first thought to this prob. I'll bet something's bent, or something's mounting point was bent.
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Originally posted by peejay
The Watts link, not the trailing arms, controls the axle placement laterally. Check to make sure neither of the links is bent, and that the center link is not upside down (although as memory serves, that'd be a LOT more than a fingers-width of offset, more like 5-6 inches )
It's entirely possible too that one or both of the body members that the Watts attaches to is bent. Or, that your driver's side axle bearings are loose.
Did you di this measuring with the axle at right height, or with the car jacked up and the rearend hanging free? An ideal Watts linkage has no lateral movement in its travel but the Mazda setup has lots more lateral movement over its travel than a Panhard, so what you're seeing may actually be normal.
The Watts link, not the trailing arms, controls the axle placement laterally. Check to make sure neither of the links is bent, and that the center link is not upside down (although as memory serves, that'd be a LOT more than a fingers-width of offset, more like 5-6 inches )
It's entirely possible too that one or both of the body members that the Watts attaches to is bent. Or, that your driver's side axle bearings are loose.
Did you di this measuring with the axle at right height, or with the car jacked up and the rearend hanging free? An ideal Watts linkage has no lateral movement in its travel but the Mazda setup has lots more lateral movement over its travel than a Panhard, so what you're seeing may actually be normal.
I checked my '82 that I'm taking the engine out of and both wheels are symetrical to the body which, to me, would be ideal. I never thought of the Watts linkage being bent. I'll get under it in the next day or two and take a look.
All of the lug nuts are tight with minimum play in the wheel so I've ruled out lug nugts and bearings for the moment. Like I stated before, I do not think the car has ever been damaged as I see no sign of body work or bending in the frame or trailing mounts (but I never checked the Watts area).
Now from what you've said, I hope it is just the Watts linkage either bent or put on upside down since that whole rear axle assembly was replaced according to the previous owner. Looks like it's time to break out the Haynes manual and maybe the digital camera
#11
Old [Sch|F]ool
Also check the bearings! The rear axle bearings love to slide off of the axles. Check the distance from the hub to the backing plate on both sides, it should be the same.
If the Watts center link was upside down, the axle would be several INCHES off to one side, instead of 1/2" offset or whatever.
If the Watts center link was upside down, the axle would be several INCHES off to one side, instead of 1/2" offset or whatever.
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hmm bent watss link is my vote too... drove one that had been slid into a curb, probably six inches offset to one side... lucky it is a wreck, well it is now
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BTW, I was actually pondering the Watts today when my fat brother in law was in my P seat. I hardly ever have anyone in the car with me and I have that "drivers side rear is lower" thing goin' on. But I noticed after we arrived at our destination that it was'nt so low after tubby had been in thewre with me. Could it be that the car pivots on the Watts link?
(I don't understand how it works yet.)
-Just a yes or no. I don't wanna steer the thread different for alien.
(I don't understand how it works yet.)
-Just a yes or no. I don't wanna steer the thread different for alien.
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keep in mind the car has a total (driver/passenger/cargo) capacity of about 450 lbs, so don't haul tubby around with a load of groceries in back...
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It's looking like I won't be able to get under the car until the weekend, but wanted to comment on what Manntis mentioned for cargo capacity. Weighing in at 260lbs I won't be hauling much else around with me if the cargo cap. is only 450lbs, but I expected not to haul much anything else just because I'm trying to keep total weight of car/cargo down. Hmm, New Year's resolution...do weight reduction of own
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Yup, 340lbs. Checked yesterday while I was under the car checking the Watts Link. Looks like you guys were right again. The Watts Axle Bracket mounting bolt looks bent towards the passenger side which throughs the bracket off enough that it is noticeable at the top arm mount where the two meet. At first I thought it was just the bushing but when I looked closer, the thing is bent. Luckily I've got two more good ones to replace it with. Now, is that bolt removable or is it part of the rear axle? The Haynes manual doesn't say and both my others are still attached to the axle