as title states

Thanks!

 

24 leading and 16 trailing.

quick question, does the bottom of the front bumper in the sig pic line up qith the bottom of the doors, or is it lower?

 

I am sure it is a tad bit lower, but not noticable by me. But the front air damn completey goes with the line of the car. It doesn't look 'out of place' at all, if that's what you are concerned with.


Also, this might be a stupid question, but does the port on the motor affect what timing you should use on the motor??? (I.E I have a 1/2 bridge ported motor)

Another question, why not run stock timing specs on the 12a motor? 0L, 20T

Why run the 24L and 16T

Thanks guys!

Ryan

 

Yet another question:

Both of my vaccum pods on the distributor are disconnected. Will this affect how I setup the timing on the car??? (searched)

Ryan

 

Sweet, that was the answer I was looking for.

as for the non stock timing, go here: http://www.yawpower.com/pultime.html

I dont know much about how it would affect with port and whatnots though.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...vaccum+advance

I think this might help.

 

is it 24L 16T at idle??

Just making sure!!

Thanks!

Ryan

PS- does porting make any difference in the timing setting??

 

Right now would be a great time to chime in?!?!?!

Thanks!

Ryan

 

This is what Racing beat recommends 24BTC for leading and 5BTC for trailing taken at 6000 RPM with vacuum advance disconnected completely.

 

Once the timing has been set, get the vac advance hooked back up. Use the nipple furthest forward at the base of the carb to feed both vacuum pots.

 

this post is convenient because i have a 1/2 bridge 12a and need the same info
i looked at the above links and following the responses from yall but i still don't understand.

how do you know its 24btc on pulley? what markings do you use? aren't the marking on the pulley for ATC.

wouldnt it be easier to adjust at idle? like set iut at 2btc at idle for leading that way by 4-6k rpm its 24btc???

 

The timing specs I gave him from Racing beat do not use the vacuum advance at all for that particualr setup.

 

Really?? I wonder why...are you not supposed to run vacuum advance on a 1/2 bridge?? Doesn't make any sense...

 

Well, they don't differeniate between a 1/2 bridgeport or a full. Their specs they have listed are for racing purposes and thats the only specs they give in the bridgeport category.
Street port specs are completly different.
When I have run stock port motors with aftermarket carbs with no rats nest I have never run vacuum advance on them ever.

 

The Dizzy's also have a slight mechanical advance I've noticed. I also agree on ditching the Vaccuum Advance. I never seen a point to it. I think it was just an emissions device.

 

There's no vacuum advance at WOT so it doesn't do much from a performance perspective. All it does is improve response and fuel economy under light throttle conditions.

 

Is this true?? B/c I happened to PM Kentetsu for some advice and he said to reconnect the vacuum pods to the card for better fuel economy and more mid to low end torque. I reconnected them and wow what a difference. I have much more low end and mid range torque. So if the vac pods are disabled at WOT anyways, why not connect them for better mpg???

Just wondering,

Ryan

 

??????????????????????????

 

leave the vacuum advance attached. its rediculous to take it off unless you absolutely have to or your set up calls for it.

 

Thanks for the update on your situation, and I'm glad to hear that you got the same results that I did.

I had mine hooked up to a different nipple, and had goofy idle issues and had to blip the throttle before taking off to avoid stalling it. Having it on the correct nipple makes it feel like I just had a couple of extra "cylinders" kick in. The car feels muscular, lol. It's hard to describe but it is definitely torque that you're getting more of.

 

Ya, thanks man, I really appreciate the help!!

Ryan