I know this is a common problem, but what is it symptom of? I'm running stock alternator, and a 100 watt amp (4 ga cable there, da blue one).

Right on.

 

That's a symptom of electrolyte corrosion.

Your battery is either slightly overcharging, causing the electrolyte to boil, or it was just sloppily topped up (if it's not a 'maintenance free battery)

in any event all you have to do is remove the cable, sprinkle both post and cable end with baking soda (to neutralize any remaining acid) and scrub both clean with a wire brush, though a terminal cleaner for the soft metal of the battery post is preferrable.

Then KUI it and see if the corrosion reoccurs. Yours is mild, but worth watching.

 

Overcharging? Hmmm, I never show above 12.5 volts on the stock gage....I thought it had something to do with the amplifier, as it only grows on the amp wire terminal. And as you can see from the photo, it's a maintenance free battery.

Right on.

 

Ummm. that's not a maintenance-free battery. Sears Die-Hard (Die Easy) batteries require routine water checking to ensure that they plates don't go dry. You can check the water level by taking off those plastic plates evident in your picture. There are 2 plates, both situated down the centerline, and can be pryed off with a flat-blade screwdriver. Be sure that the water (electrolyte) level in the battery comes up to the bottom of the plastic 'fingers' that go down into the solution. If you can see lead open to the air, you'll need to add more water.

Also, to the green corrosion on your amplifier lead - this is simply copper corrosion due to the high copper content of the connector on your battery. The tendency for the copper to corrode more quickly, and more colorfully, is due to the annode/cathode preference for the battery to corrode the easiest sink for corrosion, i.e., the copper.

You can clean this up with a wire brush, but it will start up again in a few months. Best bet is to go with a better quality connector, either gold plate (but don't scratch the plating), or another type of connection metal that is more similar to the main battery connection. This will slow the corrosion rate, but not remove it entirely.

I also like to use the dielectric grease sold at most auto-parts and electronics stores, as this helps to make a better connection between the post and the terminal.

Back to maintenance-free batteries - these are commonly seen as the Optima series, where they are fully sealed and use a gel electrolyte instead of viscous fluid and cannot be opened, so they don't require any maintenance. They tend to provide more consistent and reliable operation and cost considerably more than standard batteries. HTH,

 

Would Gold not corrode faster than the stock lead connector though?

 

No...I've got proof, but now I don't have a digicamera to load up pics...I'm getting a new one tomorrow if y'all can wait...basically, he's grounding. Get any and all grease and oil off of that area to kill your grounding "circuit". Those cute little red fuzzies are supposed to do that, but they're not 100 % effective as you've just found out...

 

cant any of you guys read where it says maintence free under the diehard word on the battery???

 

it also says Die Hard, but that isn't true either

 

Depends on your definition of 'hard' doesn't it.

 

They are designed this way, but in truth, they arent. There is a possibility you need to "maintain" it by adding water (distilled) IF it ever gets low. Personally, I have a Die Hard as well, and I wouldnt fill it, Id just take it back . Thats my version of maintenece free . Anytime I have a battery problem, its off to Sears for a new one .

~T.J.

 

At some point, however, you're going to hit the 'cost-benefit' turning point and realize that the trips to Sears for a new battery are taking up more and more of your valuable time, hence the benefit goes down.

After owning 2 Sears Die-Easy batteries in the past year, the first one cracked the side of the case, leaking electrolyte down the inner fender of my Infiniti Q45, which pissed me off, followed by the 2nd (replacement) battery which was moved to my 84SE having 2 bad cells.

I ditched the Die-Easy as a core value on my red-top Optima and never looked back. When the battery in the Q dies, it'll get the same treatment. Don't believe everything you read, especially on the side of a battery product!

 

I'm still using the Mazda factory battery that Pam brought with her from Hiroshima 17 years ago...