1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

what is needed for front brake rotors??

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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:18 PM
  #1  
Rusty Shackleford's Avatar
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what is needed for front brake rotors??

need new rotors on my frount but i heard you have to change out all the bearings but....im not sure what is all needed for my order...what all do i need??

i mis-placed my hayes and the online shop manual is missing that chapter on changing rotors out...
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:47 PM
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You need 2 of each: Rotors, Outer and Innter Bearings, Inner Dust Seal. I'd also suggest getting new pads, because it's better to have new components all around than start with a worn set of pads that could cause damage to your rotors.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 08:28 PM
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GOT WANKEL?
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yeah, i did all of it(rotor caliper pads brarings seals) and it ended up not being that hard
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 08:30 PM
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dont forget to buy some grease
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:08 PM
  #5  
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One thing to be aware of:

Thre's one bolt that you'll have to remove to get each rotor off, and it's a bitch and a half--- unless you have a 14mm off-set box-end wrench that you've modified slightly so that it won't keep slipping off the bolt head when you apply torque.

This bolt is the lower bolt that holds the bracket in which the caliper mounts. Once the caliper is removed you'll see that it is then necessary to remove this bracket before the rotor can be removed. Of the two bolts holding this bracket on, the lower one is in very close proximity to the steering knuckle--- which interferes with the wrench's ability to seat properly onto the bolt head. The result is wrench slippage, scraped knuckles and copious amounts of filthy language to make you feel better (or at least less homicidal).

To remedy this, simply take this wrench to the grinder and chamfer the top surface of the forward-most edge of the business end of the wrench--- the part that fits onto the bolt. This will give you the proper clearance so that the wrench can get a firm grip on the bolt head.

One more thing:

When replacing the wheel bearings, be sure to pack them very well with good wheel-bearing grease. Submerge the bearings and really saturate them so that as you push them into the grease you end up with grease squeezing out the other side around the entire perimeter and no empty spaces in the bearings.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:18 PM
  #6  
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GOT WANKEL?
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yes, grease. i used a plastic baggie and put about 1/3 c. of bearing grease and really push in inside the bearings. if you get new rotors, in my case, i needed new runs too. the easiest way tp put them in is with the tool made for it. you might be able to rent one from an auto parts store
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 10:21 PM
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i thought the inner bearings had to be pressed? thats what i was told....
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:05 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by onslaught_81
i thought the inner bearings had to be pressed? thats what i was told....
Actually they press in quite easily. No need to pay a shop to do something you can do yourself--- especially if whoever told you this was the owner of just such a shop and trolling for business.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:37 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Aviator 902S
Actually they press in quite easily. No need to pay a shop to do something you can do yourself--- especially if whoever told you this was the owner of just such a shop and trolling for business.

i recently replaced my front rotors, and this being my first time doing brakes, I took my new bearings and rotors to the local Midas and had them press the race's in. They started it with a dull chisel, and then used a large ball peen hammer's round head to finish putting it in. no scoring and it looked relatively. it was a good lesson for $20.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:40 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Aviator 902S
One thing to be aware of:

Thre's one bolt that you'll have to remove to get each rotor off, and it's a bitch and a half--- unless you have a 14mm off-set box-end wrench that you've modified slightly so that it won't keep slipping off the bolt head when you apply torque.

This bolt is the lower bolt that holds the bracket in which the caliper mounts. Once the caliper is removed you'll see that it is then necessary to remove this bracket before the rotor can be removed. Of the two bolts holding this bracket on, the lower one is in very close proximity to the steering knuckle--- which interferes with the wrench's ability to seat properly onto the bolt head. The result is wrench slippage, scraped knuckles and copious amounts of filthy language to make you feel better (or at least less homicidal).

To remedy this, simply take this wrench to the grinder and chamfer the top surface of the forward-most edge of the business end of the wrench--- the part that fits onto the bolt. This will give you the proper clearance so that the wrench can get a firm grip on the bolt head.

One more thing:

When replacing the wheel bearings, be sure to pack them very well with good wheel-bearing grease. Submerge the bearings and really saturate them so that as you push them into the grease you end up with grease squeezing out the other side around the entire perimeter and no empty spaces in the bearings.
that is quite a bitch, but I found an alternate method of removing the bolt when I was re-installing the caliper mounting bracket. Just remove the bracket that the caliper mounting bracket is mounted to. 4 bolts that are alot easier to remove than that little bitch. While you have that off, grind off the dust shield, it shaves about 1.5 pounds of unsprung weight. Don't forget to hit it with multiple coats of some good primer and paint.
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 09:48 AM
  #11  
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Wouldn't it be easier to remove the strut from the lower ball joint mounting point?? I am going to try this as I will not have to cut my dust sheild or take the chance of rounding off the caliper atachment braket bolts.. I really hate when auto makers can't find a better way of building the suspension to allow easier maintenance...
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #12  
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Yes this was much easier.. two bolts at bottom of strut mount.. use a 17mm box end wrench to remove these two bolts... twist the whole strut/spindle assembly to get acces to the hidden bolt with a regular socket 14mm i think. this worked out fine saved some time and my knuckles "the important part"!!!! Try this next time you do front brakes, you'll be glad you did.

edit, had it for only two weeks and i'm showin you rexheads the easier way.... hehehhahahahahahaahahahha
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Old Nov 12, 2005 | 01:20 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by NewmanFirstgen
Yes this was much easier.. two bolts at bottom of strut mount.. use a 17mm box end wrench to remove these two bolts... twist the whole strut/spindle assembly to get acces to the hidden bolt with a regular socket 14mm i think. this worked out fine saved some time and my knuckles "the important part"!!!! Try this next time you do front brakes, you'll be glad you did.

edit, had it for only two weeks and i'm showin you rexheads the easier way.... hehehhahahahahahaahahahha
Ok, we concede. It sounds like you've earned that little snicker.

But with this shaved 14mm wrench my way is also a quick and easy no-brainer. And my knuckles are none the worse for wear.
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