thirdtimesthecharm

Ok, so im installing Hawk HPS pads front and rear along with SSB lines. The front left caliper is seized on the rotor, though not locked too hard. It will even roll perfectly straight until the pads get some heat in 'em.

Just wondering if ill definitely need a rebuild kit or if theyll just loosen back up when I push the pistons back in for the fresh pads.

Oh yea, its seized simply because the car had been sitting two month periods off and on for a few years.

Tell me good news...

Kentetsu

You might be able to clean it up and get it moving again. Can't remember if these calipers use "sliders" or not (been working on the Audi too much lately), but if they do then clean those really well and lube them.

If you need replacements, check with www.rockauto.com

Rogue_Wulff

If you can get the piston to depress back into the caliper, it may not want to came back out.
I would advise you to either rebuild the caliper(s), or purchase reman units.
Pistons stuck in the caliper, means no braking action all. If it does come back out, it will likely bind up again, causing excess heat and wear on the pads/rotor.
Do it right, and you'll only do it once. Do it wrong, and you will be doing it all over again, and will likely need more parts to replace the new ones you already have.

thirdtimesthecharm

your saying i need a new, not remanufactured caliper? money's tight pretty tight but if itll save in the long run i guess Ill take your advice. Yea i know about rockauto I just orders four tie rod ends, an idler arm, plud wires and plug from them.

edit: Sorry about the typos im multitasking at the moment.

85 FB

As having been through the same thing, go for a replacement caliper. It's better to pay the amount and not worry about it later on, versus paying a little now and end up paying a lot later on.

I didn't even know they offered rebuild kits for calipers. Quite honestly, I wouldn't touch one of those things with a 10-foot pole. Go with the caliper, it's better peace of mind.

thirdtimesthecharm

Check this out... https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...aliper+rebuild

seems easier than commonly beleived. Plus if I rebuilt with a new piston as well ($30 at rockauto) I would think this would bring it back to almost new and prevent future binding...no?

Rogue_Wulff

A reman (rebuilt) caliper is probably less than a kit and piston.
Do you really want to be the one to discover you didn't rebuild the caliper correctly? This usually shows up at the worst possible time, like when you NEED to stop, NOW!

thirdtimesthecharm

Well I bought this car with the intent to learn...

But point taken... I'd rather not learn the hard way.

Thanks and i apologize for any newbie arrogance.

85 FB

It is only through our mistakes do we learn and gain experience.

Also, I know what it's like to be on a very tight budget, but do keep this in mind: buy quality parts. Do go and buy the cheapest part you can find for your car. You get what you pay for.

I wanted to save money when I was going to R&R my clutch system, so I went to Auto Zone and spent $50 for a new master and slave cylinder (from some generic company). Well, guess what? I was leaking fluid and couldn't tell where. So, I did what I should've done in the first place: go to Olympus Auto Parts (strictly import) and spent $80 more for a master and slave cylinder build by Tokico. Turns out the Auto Zone master cylinder was the cause of the leak. Brand new item, yet it still leaked. Tokico parts? They've been on my car since last summer and not one leak.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Replace in pairs only.

Kentetsu

I wouldn't freak out before you get the caliper off and check it out. I'd say there is a much better chance that the guide pins are corroded, then having a stuck piston. You will be able to tell when removing the caliper. In fact, it will probably be difficult to get it off if the guide pins are rusted (ask me how I know). New pins are cheap, but good luck finding any. I cleaned mine up with a wire wheel, then followed up by using a small wire wheel on a dremel to clean out the holes they slide into. After applying a good high temp grease, all was well again.

thirdtimesthecharm

How do u know???

Thats great news if thats the case... I'd prefer labor over cost ANY day of the week.

Just got back from work (quarter to six in the morning), and hopefully I can wake up to new pads and lines in a rockauto box at my doorstep tomorrow (******* two days late with two day shipping).

Ill update my findings in case anyone cares haha.

Rogue_Wulff

One item that hasn't been mentioned. If you buy the kit and pistons to rebuild the calipers yourself, you also need to get a hone to remove the roughness and pitting inside the caliper bore. While many places rent this kind of tool, the rentals usually tend to have less than perfect stones, making it that much more difficult to get a nice finish.
If the caliper is too badly rusted inside, there's not much hope for rebuilding it yourself.