1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

What Fuel Filter to get???

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Old 09-23-01, 05:27 PM
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What Fuel Filter to get???

Does anyone have a preference of fuel filter brands? I want to get a new one and have never really thought about one brand over another till now. What do you gues recomend?
Old 09-23-01, 09:41 PM
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On my SE 13B I run the Standard Mazda filter, but on my '85 GSL 12A I have a glass Perolater with replaceable mesh filter. As an "old-timer" I like to be able to see my filter and detirmine myself if it needs replacing...

Denny, from the 'ol corncrib...
Old 09-24-01, 08:23 AM
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Fram G12 is what the book recommends. But I don't know if it's the best for a rotary.
Old 09-24-01, 08:30 AM
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Originally posted by Jeff20B
Fram G12 is what the book recommends. But I don't know if it's the best for a rotary.

I've heard so much horrible stuff about Fram oil filters, but are their fuel filters OK?
Old 09-24-01, 11:52 AM
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Fram PH3593A and PH2849 are what the book recommends for rotaries. Could you give us some numbers for Wix or whatever is better for the our engines?
Old 09-24-01, 12:14 PM
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I found out that the K&N oil filter part # for my 85 12A is HP-1004. I am going to call and see how much they are from my local parts store.
Old 09-24-01, 01:27 PM
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Originally posted by jimmyv13



I've heard so much horrible stuff about Fram oil filters
damn i think my car is going to blow up soon, everything that i buy seems to be the horrible stuff.....whats so bad about fram oil filters?
Old 09-24-01, 01:39 PM
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Originally posted by Johnny_84_GSL


damn i think my car is going to blow up soon, everything that i buy seems to be the horrible stuff.....whats so bad about fram oil filters?
That **** made me laugh!!!!!!!!!!!!

I used Fram filters on almost everything I own until I saw this program on T.V. about how Fram oil filters suck. I changed to Puralator after that. I've heard nothing but good stuff about WIX and K&N. I have yet to find out how much they are, though.
Old 09-24-01, 05:25 PM
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all right then screw fram, i'll try K&N on my next tune up.....ummm are bosch plug wires good or bad?
Old 09-24-01, 09:16 PM
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I went and got me a Mazda factory fuel filter for like 3.50. I am getting to the point were if I go to any brand name from some parts store I hear a horror story, Now I know that some may be true but I think I am going with the factory spec on this one, I dont think I can go wrong, and the price was right too.
Old 09-24-01, 11:33 PM
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Bosch makes good ****. All of it! Most people don't know this, but they even make Blaupunkt audio equipment.

That said, I've never used their plug wires, but my GF's Intrepid has Bosch plugs.
Old 09-25-01, 07:10 AM
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K&N oil filters are very good, larger than stock, much larger. And they have a 1" nut on top, so its easy as can be to take off... They filter great and are sturdy (you can still however punch the hole to drain the oil out of it)... The only bad thing about it is the cost, they cost upwards of 10 dollars. I used a FRAM fuel filter and it worked great. FRAM just uses shitty componants inside for their oil filters, they are ok air and fuel filters.
Old 09-25-01, 07:46 AM
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The best thing about K&N and Wix oil filters is that they filter down to 10 microns, I've heard nothing else can compare to that. The filament inside a fram oil filter is shitty enough to probably pass a marble. I don't think $10 is too bad.

I use K&N air and purolator fuel filters. What other name brand fuel filters are available for a 1st gen RX besides purolator and fram?
Old 09-25-01, 01:24 PM
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i know that replacing a fuel filter isn't exactly rocket science, but i have little experience under my car, especially toward the rear.

could anyone (pittdp, especially since you just did it) post a quick walkthrough/overview of the process for me so i know what to expect?
Old 09-25-01, 01:47 PM
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Originally posted by cpt_gloval
i know that replacing a fuel filter isn't exactly rocket science, but i have little experience under my car, especially toward the rear.

could anyone (pittdp, especially since you just did it) post a quick walkthrough/overview of the process for me so i know what to expect?
Loosen left rear lugs.
Jack up left rear of car.
Remove wheel for easier accessibility.
Filter will be between tank and body on the drivers(left)side.
Remove filter from bracket.
Loosen clamps from both hoses.
Get coffee can, or similiar, to catch fuel from line.
Note which direction fuel flows through filter by arrow.
Remove line from filter to front of car first for less fuel spill.
Remove other line and quickly apply new filter.
Wipe gas off hands and body.
Apply front hose and tighten both clamps.
Put filter back into bracket.
Remove can from under car. VERY IMPORTANT! CAR WILL CRUSH CAN IF NOT REMOVED!!
Put wheel back on and lower car.
Tighten lugs.
Turn key to on position, pull out choke, if carbed... pump pedal a few times.
Turn key to start.
Smile.
Job complete.

Anything else?
Old 09-25-01, 02:01 PM
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Has anyone experience a fuel, oil, or air filter failure?

I’ve used Fram, Wix, Purolator, Car & Driver (Target), and even Wal Mart Filters.

I am bad and apologize, I plan to do better on my future filter buying ventures.

But I have never had a filter related failure.

Did the TV tell you anything else Jimmyv13, sounds like a possible insanity plea?
Old 09-25-01, 02:12 PM
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The main thing the program was geared toward was the way that fram oil filters did not filter small particles, if my memory serves me correctly I think it was 30 and 40 micrometer pieces were getting though. It doesn't seem like much of a difference from 10 to 30 or 40 microns, but it doesn't take much to clog up an apex seal. I'd rather not take that chance. I've seen the best fram oil filters in the store called extraguard2, something like that, cost about $10. I guess I should look to see what they claim to filter. The K&N is the same price and I haven't seen or heard anything bad about K&N filters(oil or air) ever, except they are expensive. But, I guess we have to pay for their reputation.
Old 09-25-01, 02:34 PM
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> That said, I've never used their plug wires, but my GF's Intrepid has Bosch plugs <

Don't use Bosch plugs in a rotary.
Old 09-25-01, 02:35 PM
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Last Oil Filter I put on the POS Racer was a Fram Extra Guard filter it was like $3.00.

From www.fram.com:

Tiny dirt particles between 10 and 20 microns do much of the damage to bearings, cylinders and other moving engine parts by rubbing and causing wear.

That's where FRAM Extra Guard filter comes into play. Tests have proven that FRAM Extra Guard filter allows two to six times fewer engine damaging dirt particles than any leading brand.
Old 09-25-01, 03:33 PM
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[i]don't use Bosch plugs in a rotary. [/B]

Son of a F%$*!#@ b-otch, i swear my car is a moving time bomb just waiting to happen
Old 09-25-01, 04:18 PM
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Originally posted by Johnny_84_GSL



Son of a F%$*!#@ b-otch, i swear my car is a moving time bomb just waiting to happen
LOL - that's funny ****, dude.
Old 09-26-01, 12:41 AM
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Originally posted by Jeff20B
> That said, I've never used their plug wires, but my GF's Intrepid has Bosch plugs <

Don't use Bosch plugs in a rotary.

I guess I should have mentioned it. Stick to the NKG's for the rex. Bosch plugs ARE good, but not designed for rotary engines.
Old 09-26-01, 08:50 AM
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Too involved man.

Originally posted by jimmyv13


Loosen left rear lugs.
Jack up left rear of car.
Remove wheel for easier accessibility.
Filter will be between tank and body on the drivers(left)side.
Remove filter from bracket.
Loosen clamps from both hoses.
Get coffee can, or similiar, to catch fuel from line.
Note which direction fuel flows through filter by arrow.
Remove line from filter to front of car first for less fuel spill.
Remove other line and quickly apply new filter.
Wipe gas off hands and body.
Apply front hose and tighten both clamps.
Put filter back into bracket.
Remove can from under car. VERY IMPORTANT! CAR WILL CRUSH CAN IF NOT REMOVED!!
Put wheel back on and lower car.
Tighten lugs.
Turn key to on position, pull out choke, if carbed... pump pedal a few times.
Turn key to start.
Smile.
Job complete.

Anything else?
In an extreme case, you can do it with a pair of needle nose and the jack in the back of the car. Hell, If the car isn't lowered much, you don't even need to jack it up. (Not reccomended unless you are a lanky dude like me. Even then, severe squirming was necessary.) Also, I never got much gas out of the hoses. It all was in the filter.

Originally posted by Johnny_84_GSL
Son of a F%$*!#@ b-otch, i swear my car is a moving time bomb just waiting to happen
Fram filters, Bosch plugs... Dude. Just tell us the brand name of all your aftermarket parts. We'll tell you what to pitch and what to keep.

Oh yeah. At least they aren't AutoLites.

Last edited by Pele; 09-26-01 at 08:58 AM.
Old 09-26-01, 10:06 AM
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Originally posted by Johnny_84_GSL



Son of a F%$*!#@ b-otch, i swear my car is a moving time bomb just waiting to happen



You are killin' me!!!!!!!!!!
Old 09-26-01, 03:47 PM
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all right guys here's what i use for my tune-ups:

castrol gtx 10w-40
fram oil filter
fram fuel filter...?
ngk plugs (i hope those are good)
bosch wires
mmo in my gas tank
......i know the rest of my rigged-mods suck, like my monza exhaust system, fusible links, zip tied vac. hoses and so on...


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