Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

GOOD RESPONSE STERLING!

If the Canister IS the problem, remove it first and see if runs any different. It wouldn't hurt to blow compressed air through it (Note the proper direction of air-flow). Do it in small 2 second spurts, so you don't blow the diaphram on it.

79+80_rx-7

The hoses on the canister were un hooked, and I still had the problem...... And then I hooked them up, and still have the problem.....I have also ran it without an air cleaner all together, and still have the problem...... Could the lines be clogged? Should I go out, and blow threw all of them? All the lines were hooked up wrong, like the hose for the canister, was hooked in to the coasting vavle thingy, and the idle conpensator hose was hooked were the subzero hose should be.... the canister(the top of the aircleaner), hose was disconnected all together.......... Still have the problem, even though I hooked EVERYTHING back up, to the correct spots.... If the lines are clogged, would that cause my problem??? I am aobut to run it without a cap, to see if that would help, but I think I have before, and it didnt matter..........

79+80_rx-7

OK, I have only $5, I state that so you know, thats what I have to work with...... And for you all to tell me the first things to check that dont cost anything......

When I say I am about to sell it, I am seriously thinking about it....... I f I cant/if yayarx7 cant, fix it when he comes over within the next 2 weeks, then I will most likly sell it.......

The previous owner sunk about $600 dollars into this, and I got all the reciets to prove it..... I personally have sunk about $415 into thisthing, and still no go, so dont tell me that I need to spend more then $5, I KNOW THAT!!!!!

When you say get something with better mialage, I dont drive yet but, I soon will, I need this car, to go get my hardship........

I REALLY, REALLY LOOVE this car....... The city threatened (twice) that they are gonna tow it off, since it dont run, and I just tell them, I am gonna be waiting on them, with a bat to protect it........ They didnt like that too much.........

My mother NEEDS me to get a car that runs.......... She has severe health problems, and cant drive..... Well, she can, but only if she HAS to....... She wants me to get my hardship, and drive her around..... Even though, she dont , like my car since its so low to the ground........

I do have an older brother who is 18, and doesnt have his liscense(stole some car long ago, cant get it until he is 19) But when he is able to legally drive, he has a 2 month old daughter to take care of........ And my older sister who is 22, has a 4 yr old, and stupid fience, she has to watch over...... And my other sister who is 16(no liscense), is near blind, and she is ditsy, and my mother would rather not ride with her.... So that leaves me...... She trusts me, I can see well, and I dont have a child to take around, and I volentered to help.............. So........ I need a car...... She was hoping, last december, that I would have a running car, and my hard ship...... But I am hoping within 3 weeks............


So, thats my problems, sorry, I had to get it off my chest.............. OK, thanx, I feel mucho better.......


Sorry, to sound like a *****, I was not tryin to be.........

THANX, Andrew

hanman

Try running it without the gas cap. If the tank is not venting correctly it will build a vacuum in the tank to the point where the pump can not overcome it. When you pull the gas cap off and it goes "whooosh" and sucks the cap in, not out, then that is your problem.
hanman

79+80_rx-7

it doesnt go "woosh" at all, but I will still try it..... About to go charge the battery......
THANX, LATERZ, ANDREW

Sterling

I'm sorry about your problems. Better days are always ahead for someone as young as you. You may not believe it now, but it's true. Hanman can tell you. He's really old!

If everything was that fucked up on your car, than is it possible (...just possible) that you don't have all the hoses connected properly?

I will re-read thouroghly this whole thread again later, and see if I'm missing something.
We will try our best.

79+80_rx-7

Well, I am about to run it, and see if it floods within 30 min..... gotta let traffic clear, until mom lets me...... Hehehehee, he is really old eh? lol.... I hope there are better days ahead, I hope............




THANX, LATERZ, Andrew

79+80_rx-7

well, I ran it..... I ran it without the gas cap, for 2 miles, up, and down the street, GENTLY.... Well, when I turned around, started off in first gear, it started surging, like I was pumping the gas, but the pedal half way down..... So I pulled into the drive, and then it died, so I let it be...



It was suggested, to me, that my thermal reactor, is MOST likly collapsed....... So does any body have one??? Any one have a stock exaust sytem/or a pacesetter/monza header, if you have up graded....Any one willing to sell/rent to own/lay away, on any exaust? Tell me........

Any other suggestion????

THANX, LATERZ, Andrew


Oh yeah, ANY help/suggestions, ARE GREATLY APPRIECIATED!!!!!!!
THANX, AGAIN, LATERZ

Sterling

Spraying ether into the carb like that in that much quantity is a nono! The ether is meant to boost (severly) the octane of the fuel for an extra punch of power...kinda like priming your engine.
But it's nasty stuff; The kinda stuff that makes fish in a polluted pond grow multiple fins and three eyes!

It also will weaken-eat-destroy rubber!

The needles in the carb have very delicate tiny rubber caps on them.
If you had severly damaged them, you'd be flooding all over...gushing fuel. But please don't do it again.
Same with carb cleaner. It should be sprayed on parts in a mannor where it can evaporate off them quickly; Not inside where it can "stew" and make goo out of your rubber needles.

*******PLEASE READ THIS WHOLE THING TWICE!********

So there are three metal pipes running from the gas tank to the engine compartment. One is bigger in diameter than the other two. This is the FUEL IN line (supplies fuel to the carb).
One right next to it, in the middle, is the FUEL RETURN line.
[The fuel pump just spits out the same amount- more than the carb needs, no matter how much fuel your carb really needs regardless of speed of driving, stopping, ect. So a fuel return line is utilized to carry the 'non-used' fuel back to the tank. The fuel-in and fuel-return lines create a steady circulation of fuel at a certain pressure so that no matter how much fuel the carb is using at any given time, there is always more "on tap", and never any "build-up"]

The third line is the TANK VENT line. If this were'nt there, sucking fuel out of your tank would become harder and harder because the tank would build up a vacuum. But there's also something else...Gasoline expands so easily, and so fast at the slightest temperature change, that pressure can build up in the tank as well. But the vacuum created by use, and pressure created by heated tank fuel are never-ever-ever "just right" enough to cancel one and other out. (Maybe for a millisecond, but not enough to benifit you).

If that tank can't vent, your car will run when you start it because...

1) The pressure/vacuum created the last time you tried it has leaked away from the gas tank (It's not like it's so perfectly sealed that pressure can't leak out overnight!)

2) There is fuel in the carb and in the fuel line - enough to drive about a mile or more (if your car gets 15 MPG, then take one gallon of gas and divide it into 15 glasses of gas. Pour one into the carb bowls and FUEL-IN line. See how there's enough?!)

The car will become more difficult to work on, and your attempts will not be as good as the first one when it was cold because you are...

...Expanding the fuel in the tank with sloshing and some exhaust heat!!! so, consequently, the more you try, the worse it gets, untill you find yourself typing furiously about how your gonna go do something CRAZY like sell your rex!

It's no wonder you're pissed!

Do you have emmissions crap in Texas? Even if you do, I suggest that you...

1) Do searches on every rx-7 site you know of, about the PROPER-nooo ****-ups way to remove all the emissions hoses, and plug the carb base plate nipples.

2) Do a thorough double check to see that the exhaust valve thing on the side of the intake manifold is not leaking.

****(With the engine REALLY COLD!!!!!) Spray JUST A BIT OF MIST!!!- of carb cleaner around that area to see if the engine idle changes. Do the same around the carb after everything is sealed up. This indicates a leak. If you have arcing coils, You Could blow yourself up. Guy- DO NOT TAKE THIS LIGHTLY!!!
(You think your life sucks now...Just be damn careful, and DON'T use ether. Use cleaner or even WD-40. (Much more stable)****

3) Take the butterfly off the choke. (You don't need that ****** thing in Texas anyway!) Take your time. Drop a screw into your carb, and you're suddenly in a BAD way! (They are brass too, so it's not like you can fish them out with a magnet!) Just take your time.
Another alternative is to simply remove the linkage on the end of the shaft, and wire the choke plate open. (It's really just to make sure that there's not something funny going on with the automatic choke system.)

4) Make certain that the fuel pipes that go to the tank are all being used for what they are supposed to be used for. The big one...FUEL-IN. The next one...FUEL-RETURN. The other makes a turn over to the canister. Leave it disconnected for now.
The FUEL-RETURN hose has a one-way metal valve in the middle of it. If you put that on backwards, then you've made a problem for yourself. Disconnect it from the carb, and blow through it. BIG breath. If you can't, try taking it off the pipe and blowing thru the other end.
It needs to be connected to the return so that fuel can flow away from the carb, but not back into it.

5) Carefully remove the spark plugs. Take a wire brush to them. TELL US WHAT THEY LOOKED LIKE!!! It's very important as it's an indicator of how your engine was running!
I know you can't afford plugs right now. Even if they are in shitty shape, they will work for you if you clean off any carbon deposits.
Take extra caution when reinstalling them, and thread them by hand. You should always wire brush the threads on the plugs, too, (never on the engine threads!!!) and then coat them with antisieze aluminum paste before reinstallation. Don't soak them in anything. If you do not have antisieze, then just put them in, but there is NEVER any reason to crank on spark plugs. They really don't need to be that tight. (You're not losing compression or anything!!!) But overtightening them will ruin your month for sure. The engine is soft aluminum. That's why you thread them by hand...so's not to cross thread them accidently.
The book only calls for 13 ft-lbs of torque on the plugs, BTW.
A four year old child can tighten more than that.
Just keep that in mind.


There. Even if it does'nt run well yet, don't dispair. You've just eliminated about 20+ different possibilities, and now it will become MUCH more easy for us to help you. What you had before was a car with all the emissions stuff in tact (sort of) and the emmissions contol systems on these cars is the most complicated part!

Don't REMOVE the rats nest if you will need it all set up again; Just disconnect the hoses. Disconnect the hoses at the solenoids, so that your carb base plate has a bunch of hoses hangin out. Then you can plug them with rods or screw drivers, ect. Otherwise, you'll have to buy carb nipple covers.
Don't use bolts in the ends because vacuum leaks will occur through the threads.
Don't hook one nipple from the base plate to another nipple from the base plate in order to "kill two birds with one hose", because if you pick the wrong one, you can screw up the signal.

So do all that, and let us know what happens, yeah?

Good luck.

hanman

Sterling..............the scourge of the deer population.

79+80_rx-7

Ok, I take the spark plugs out every 2-3 runs, and clean them with a wire brush........... I can do it again...... I know all the lines to the tank, are hooked up right........ As is, all the other lines...... I think , my thermal reactor is collapsed, because the white smoke (I know, its the O-ring) on start up, comes out the little pipe.... And it i NOT suposed to...... only dry air from the pump should come out....... From that, peejay said, that the thermal reactor is collapsed............. And, I WILL need a header, if I want to do without ALL the emissions, Other wise, I would have done it before this......... If I dont have a header, and take the emissions off, the new thermal reactor, will collapse AGAIN......... So, I need to get ahold of a monza/pacesetter header, to yank the emmissions............ Or, think a 81-85 system will work, if i get EVERTHING, and I could then make a straight pipe for the cats, and use just a stock muffler....... So, what do you think???

79+80_rx-7

Oops, I didnt know, I just assumed, it would clean it, and it did run ALOT better, for about 20 min I could light the tires up, and get it sideways, in third......... (crappy tires/dry rotted)


OK This is the third time, I have read this........

I know............

Oh, OK, Thanx, I did not know that That helps.......

I didnt know that gas can expand......

Ok, I kinda figured that part..... Oh, I AM gonna KEEP the rex, EVEN if it is gonna KILL me......... But, it running would HELP I am severly pissed still, but your helping helping, along with MANY OTHERS, so THAT HELPS ALOT.

And us getting closer to the problem, is helping ALOT too...... THANX TO ALL!!!!

Oh, yeah, I let my car WARM up before do anything..... And it doesnt mind, to sit, and idle for however long it wants.....

Yes, but I can get an extra $20, for it to pass

I cant unless I get a header, or an exaust system from like an 81-85, cause, the new thermal reactor, if I get one, will collapse, like the old one, that we suspect, did......

I will, if I can find, some WD-40..... Why do they call it that??? So, this is on my "to do list"......

Ok, I will wire it open, cause I drink too much caffiene.... And I dont wat to risk anything...... Is the coke still gonna be usable??? Or do I just remove it all???

The lines are ALL hooked up correctly...... The vavle, has an arrow on it, and we made that point toward the tank.........

I always take cation into putting stuff on/in the engine...... I bought new plugs, when I bought the car, and my brother had 2 set of new plugs for it, he gave me with the 80............ I will go out, and pull them, and take a picture of them for you........ I just put it on my "to do list"

I will keep that in mind

Yeah, besides the fact, that I cant remove the emission, unless I get a later exaust system, or a header, or somtin........ I can live with it being loud for 10 minutes...... Cause, after it works, I am gonna slice my glass pack open, and stuff it with steel wool, and see if peejay's idea worked..... Then I can use the stock muffler........ I can have a decent exaust then......

When ever, I get to remove the rats nest, my friend has some plug thingy's that cap off, any hole that is in need of being sealed...... And I would completly remove that emissions thing......

I will do, I will do, but i am limited, to take a picture of the spark plugs, wiring the choke, and look for WD-40..... And if/when I do get a header/later model exaust, I then can remove the rats nest........

Well, thanx, for the vote of confidence...... And THANX for everything.......... And thanx to EVERYONE else who is helping me...... I apprieciate ALL of the HELP!!!!

I am about to go, and do those things, suggested......

LATERZ, Andrew

hanman

I can't say for sure, but I don't believe there is anything inside your thermal reactor to "collapse". And I can't imagine putting a new one on will make it collapse too. You should be able to pick up a used one in a junkyard very cheap. They arent' worth anything. I threw mine away. If you have white smoke, and if it is only the orings, just pull the thermal reactor and replace the orings. Very cheap. Also, you can inspect the reactor at that time and see if it truly is "collapsed". Do that and tell us what happens.
hanman

79+80_rx-7

screw it, I am taking the rats nest off...... Since my thermal, is most likly already collapsed, I might as well take my rats nest out....... so...... Since yayarx7, is gonna give me an 83 header/exhaust manifold, when he comes down next weekend, I am gonna be able to get rid of it anyways....... Might as well be ready........

Oh, do you people need pictures of my plugs? Leading(lower) or trailing(top)???

79+80_rx-7

READ WHAT YOU SAID, I can understand it reread, and make corrections, as followed.........



THANX LATERZ, Andrew

Sterling

Carb cleaner will work for misting around the carb to see if the idle changes...You just have to be very careful is all.
Don't bother with the photos of the plugs because you say you clean them often, so there's really no point. A simple descroption will do. (Extra white deposite, extra black deposite, or that they look different is what we're wanting to check for, but they need to have been running for quite a few hours.)

Dude, I never doubt peejay. He's helped me out lots, but could you have misunderstood, or possibly read something into his responce that was'nt intended by him?
For example, yeah, it's possible your reacter is all collapsed inside (I don't know much about them), but when he told you that it would just happen again, maybe he meant after a long time of driving?

And what "o" rings are you reffering to? Are there "O" rings in the exhaust manifold?! (I really don't know about the old style thermal reactors!)

I know about the O rings in the intake manifold...Are those the one you mean? If they are rotten, you'll get coolant in your engine, both in the combustion and the crank, and you could have a truely crappy running car. But there would be a lot of white smoke coming out the tail pipe.

If your reactor has crumbled inside, and ...Oh hey...Did you by chance do an ATF treatment ofn your engine?
I've heard about crumbled /clogged catylitic converters alot. The perforated platinum plated catylitic plates inside get a build up of carbon/resin on them. Then the platinum is no longer exposed and so the metal can't share the electrons with th incoming NOX molecules to break them apart. So it get worse and worse really fast.

The only way you're gonna be able to tell about your reactor is to take it off and look at it.

79+80_rx-7

ok, I am about to go remove it..... will tell you how it goes....... THANX, LATERZ